Adaptronic EBC How-To
08-09-2009, 06:58 PM
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Adaptronic EBC How-To
So Stein has been reminding me periodically that I agreed to do a write-up on how to connect the EBC on the Adaptronic. So, I am writing up this description of how I enabled EBC on my Adaptronic equipped car. If you have never used an EBC before, you should be able to install and tune one using these instructions and doing a little homework.
For the uninitiated, you may be asking, why do I want EBC anyway? Good question:
1. EBC will allow you to electronically raise your boost level without having to tighten the wastegate actuator. Just open up your tuning laptop, change a few numbers, and viola, more boost.
2. EBC will allow you to achieve higher boost levels than can be achieved by just tightening the wastegate actuator rod. For example, you can easily make 20 psi using a '7 psi' wastegate actuator.
3. Best of all, you can get your turbo to spool earlier, and make your target boost level earlier, than with just wastegate actuator control alone. In some cases this can be dramatic, like hitting your target boost 500-1000 RPM (or more) sooner than without EBC.
4. There are some other useful things, like throttle modulated boost, and gear dependent boost levels, that can be achieved with EBC.
Some preliminary notes:
1. I did not use the EGR wiring (or purge valve, I forget) as it is wired up on the Adaptronic wiring harness. I already had an EBC ground trigger wire run for the Megasquirt so I used that again.
2. I am using the GM EBC solenoid that DIYAutotune used to sell.
3. I am also using a hybrid EBC/MBC setup, with the EBC and MBC in parallel. This is not necessary, but might be a good idea, especially for open-loop control. The MBC acts as an upper boost clamp, preventing the boost pressure from exceeding the MBC's setting no matter what the EBC is doing.
4. I located my EBC on the left fender, about where the stock airbox used to be. It can go wherever you want, though supposedly it works better if the vacuum line lengths are minimized.
5. I am using Aux Output 3 on the Adaptronic to control the EBC.
6. This is written for wastegate actuators with only one vacuum connection.
7. This guide assumes your Adaptronic is already properly set up, the sensors are calibrated, and the fuel/spark maps are in a good state of tune. If your car is already not running well without an EBC, go no further; get it running well first.
8. This procedure only covers open-loop boost control. However, it is my understanding that open-loop tuning is a prerequisite to closed-loop boost control, so you need to do this first anyway.
9. Open-loop EBC is notoriously temperature sensitive. If the air temperature on a given day drops compared to the day on which you tune the EBC, boost pressure will typically be higher than what you tuned it to. On warmer days, it will be lower. Tuning changes or other engine changes may change the boost pressure behavior as well.
10. IMPORTANT NOTE: These instructions assume that you have the boost limiter enabled and correctly configured. DO NOT go any farther until you have the boost limiter working properly or YOU ARE AT GREAT RISK OF CATASTROPHICALLY DAMAGING YOUR MOTOR! You have been warned. Don't be stupid.
OK let's get started...
Wiring:
1. Find a switched 12V power source under the hood. You are looking for a 12V wire that is only hot when the ignition is on. I used one located in the ODB-II diagnostic port located on the left fender. I tapped into the wire (did not cut it) and it works fine. I forget the color, check the wiring harness diagram for your model.
2. Run a wire from the EBC, through the firewall, to wherever you have the Adaptronic mounted. This will be the ground trigger wire for the EBC. This is what actually controls the EBC duty cycle.
3. Connect the 12V wire and the ground trigger wire to the coil pins/wires on the EBC. On the GM there are only two wires. Polarity does not matter. According to the DIY Autotune page the new one they sell is the same way.
http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/e...kit-p-285.html
4. Connect one of the two EBC wires to the 12V source under the hood.
5. Connect the other EBC wire to the Aux 3 output wire on the Adaptronic. This is the green wire on the J2 (6-pin) connector. I cut this wire (between the Adaptronic and the board on the adapter harness) and connected the EBC wire to the Adaptronic.
Plumbing:
1. Disconnect the wastegate actuator 'vacuum' line from the wastegate actuator.
2. Run that line from your post-compressor tap to the input on the EBC.
3. Run a line from the EBC output to the wastegate actuator.
NOTE: There are threads here on which is the input and output for a particular EBC. I'll leave that to you to research.
Software Configuration:
1. Connect your tuning laptop to your Adaptronic. Open up WARI.
2. Click on the Aux Out tab.
3. Select 'aux output number' 3 (assuming you wired the EBC to Aux Out #3).
4. Set 'Type' to wastegate
5. Set the frequency to 25 Hz (what I am using, YMMV) and check the 'PWM' box. Make sure the 'Invert' box is NOT checked.
Tuning:
1. In WARI, with your laptop connected to your Adaptronic, open the 'Power Cut' tab. Set the 'inst overboost power cut' to a value that is slightly over your target boost level. I am making no recommendations here on what your target boost level should be, or how far over that you can set the boost limiter (max boost level). You are on your own here. Do your homework; read up on threads here on how much boost your particular setup can handle. When in doubt, go low. It is not worth blowing up your engine.
2. Click on the 'Wastegate' tab. This is where all of your adjustments will be made while tuning.
3. Find the 'Base DC' column. Set all of the Base DC values to 100%. This means there is no 'boost signal' going to the wastegate actuator, and thus your turbo will build boost under WOT until you hit the boost limit (see #1 above). Set the P, I, and D values to 0. This will make sure the closed loop system does not interfere.
4. Start up your car, warm it up, and start a data log. The data log is important. You need to examine it to tune the EBC.
5. Find a 'closed circuit course' for safe testing... While logging, do a 4th gear WOT pull, starting at a low RPM, say less than 2000 RPM, and hold WOT until you hear/feel the boost limiter cutting power to the motor. If you have a boost gauge, keep an eye on it and make sure you did not exceed the boost limit.
6. Pull over, stop your log. Open up your log in Megalogviewer, excel, whatever. Look for the RPM point where you hit (or slightly exceeded) your target boost level.
7. Return to WARI. At the RPM increment that is at, or one step above where you hit your target psi, set the 'Base DC' to 0%. Set all of the 'Base DC' values above this RPM point to 0%. For example, Let's say your Adaptronic is set for 500 RPM increments. Your target boost is 10 psi, and you set your boost limiter to 12 psi. When you look at your log, you see that you hit 10 psi at 2800 RPM. Therefore, set all of your duty cycles from 3000 RPM and above to 0%.
8. Repeat step 5 while logging. Verify in the latest log that you do not exceed your target boost level. If you do, go to the last RPM value that is set at 100%, and lower that value slightly. If your boost level climbs to your target boost level, then drops off slightly, then climbs again, go to the first RPM value set at 0% and raise that value slightly. Repeat step 8 as needed.
The tuning procedure may seem confusing at first. But after you do this a few times, you will see how it works, and how to alter the spool behavior of the turbo with the EBC duty cycle. This is just a basic procedure and not intended to cover all scenarios. But, as long as you have set your boost limiter properly, you can 'safely' play around with the EBC duty cycles until you get the spool behavior you want.
I am not adding a bunch of pictures here, or posting screen shots of my EBC values. This is intentional. You need to know what is going on well enough to follow the instructions above. That being said, if you think I missed something, or made a mistake, post up and I'll correct the instructions accordingly.
Enjoy
For the uninitiated, you may be asking, why do I want EBC anyway? Good question:
1. EBC will allow you to electronically raise your boost level without having to tighten the wastegate actuator. Just open up your tuning laptop, change a few numbers, and viola, more boost.
2. EBC will allow you to achieve higher boost levels than can be achieved by just tightening the wastegate actuator rod. For example, you can easily make 20 psi using a '7 psi' wastegate actuator.
3. Best of all, you can get your turbo to spool earlier, and make your target boost level earlier, than with just wastegate actuator control alone. In some cases this can be dramatic, like hitting your target boost 500-1000 RPM (or more) sooner than without EBC.
4. There are some other useful things, like throttle modulated boost, and gear dependent boost levels, that can be achieved with EBC.
Some preliminary notes:
1. I did not use the EGR wiring (or purge valve, I forget) as it is wired up on the Adaptronic wiring harness. I already had an EBC ground trigger wire run for the Megasquirt so I used that again.
2. I am using the GM EBC solenoid that DIYAutotune used to sell.
3. I am also using a hybrid EBC/MBC setup, with the EBC and MBC in parallel. This is not necessary, but might be a good idea, especially for open-loop control. The MBC acts as an upper boost clamp, preventing the boost pressure from exceeding the MBC's setting no matter what the EBC is doing.
4. I located my EBC on the left fender, about where the stock airbox used to be. It can go wherever you want, though supposedly it works better if the vacuum line lengths are minimized.
5. I am using Aux Output 3 on the Adaptronic to control the EBC.
6. This is written for wastegate actuators with only one vacuum connection.
7. This guide assumes your Adaptronic is already properly set up, the sensors are calibrated, and the fuel/spark maps are in a good state of tune. If your car is already not running well without an EBC, go no further; get it running well first.
8. This procedure only covers open-loop boost control. However, it is my understanding that open-loop tuning is a prerequisite to closed-loop boost control, so you need to do this first anyway.
9. Open-loop EBC is notoriously temperature sensitive. If the air temperature on a given day drops compared to the day on which you tune the EBC, boost pressure will typically be higher than what you tuned it to. On warmer days, it will be lower. Tuning changes or other engine changes may change the boost pressure behavior as well.
10. IMPORTANT NOTE: These instructions assume that you have the boost limiter enabled and correctly configured. DO NOT go any farther until you have the boost limiter working properly or YOU ARE AT GREAT RISK OF CATASTROPHICALLY DAMAGING YOUR MOTOR! You have been warned. Don't be stupid.
OK let's get started...
Wiring:
1. Find a switched 12V power source under the hood. You are looking for a 12V wire that is only hot when the ignition is on. I used one located in the ODB-II diagnostic port located on the left fender. I tapped into the wire (did not cut it) and it works fine. I forget the color, check the wiring harness diagram for your model.
2. Run a wire from the EBC, through the firewall, to wherever you have the Adaptronic mounted. This will be the ground trigger wire for the EBC. This is what actually controls the EBC duty cycle.
3. Connect the 12V wire and the ground trigger wire to the coil pins/wires on the EBC. On the GM there are only two wires. Polarity does not matter. According to the DIY Autotune page the new one they sell is the same way.
http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/e...kit-p-285.html
4. Connect one of the two EBC wires to the 12V source under the hood.
5. Connect the other EBC wire to the Aux 3 output wire on the Adaptronic. This is the green wire on the J2 (6-pin) connector. I cut this wire (between the Adaptronic and the board on the adapter harness) and connected the EBC wire to the Adaptronic.
Plumbing:
1. Disconnect the wastegate actuator 'vacuum' line from the wastegate actuator.
2. Run that line from your post-compressor tap to the input on the EBC.
3. Run a line from the EBC output to the wastegate actuator.
NOTE: There are threads here on which is the input and output for a particular EBC. I'll leave that to you to research.
Software Configuration:
1. Connect your tuning laptop to your Adaptronic. Open up WARI.
2. Click on the Aux Out tab.
3. Select 'aux output number' 3 (assuming you wired the EBC to Aux Out #3).
4. Set 'Type' to wastegate
5. Set the frequency to 25 Hz (what I am using, YMMV) and check the 'PWM' box. Make sure the 'Invert' box is NOT checked.
Tuning:
1. In WARI, with your laptop connected to your Adaptronic, open the 'Power Cut' tab. Set the 'inst overboost power cut' to a value that is slightly over your target boost level. I am making no recommendations here on what your target boost level should be, or how far over that you can set the boost limiter (max boost level). You are on your own here. Do your homework; read up on threads here on how much boost your particular setup can handle. When in doubt, go low. It is not worth blowing up your engine.
2. Click on the 'Wastegate' tab. This is where all of your adjustments will be made while tuning.
3. Find the 'Base DC' column. Set all of the Base DC values to 100%. This means there is no 'boost signal' going to the wastegate actuator, and thus your turbo will build boost under WOT until you hit the boost limit (see #1 above). Set the P, I, and D values to 0. This will make sure the closed loop system does not interfere.
4. Start up your car, warm it up, and start a data log. The data log is important. You need to examine it to tune the EBC.
5. Find a 'closed circuit course' for safe testing... While logging, do a 4th gear WOT pull, starting at a low RPM, say less than 2000 RPM, and hold WOT until you hear/feel the boost limiter cutting power to the motor. If you have a boost gauge, keep an eye on it and make sure you did not exceed the boost limit.
6. Pull over, stop your log. Open up your log in Megalogviewer, excel, whatever. Look for the RPM point where you hit (or slightly exceeded) your target boost level.
7. Return to WARI. At the RPM increment that is at, or one step above where you hit your target psi, set the 'Base DC' to 0%. Set all of the 'Base DC' values above this RPM point to 0%. For example, Let's say your Adaptronic is set for 500 RPM increments. Your target boost is 10 psi, and you set your boost limiter to 12 psi. When you look at your log, you see that you hit 10 psi at 2800 RPM. Therefore, set all of your duty cycles from 3000 RPM and above to 0%.
8. Repeat step 5 while logging. Verify in the latest log that you do not exceed your target boost level. If you do, go to the last RPM value that is set at 100%, and lower that value slightly. If your boost level climbs to your target boost level, then drops off slightly, then climbs again, go to the first RPM value set at 0% and raise that value slightly. Repeat step 8 as needed.
The tuning procedure may seem confusing at first. But after you do this a few times, you will see how it works, and how to alter the spool behavior of the turbo with the EBC duty cycle. This is just a basic procedure and not intended to cover all scenarios. But, as long as you have set your boost limiter properly, you can 'safely' play around with the EBC duty cycles until you get the spool behavior you want.
I am not adding a bunch of pictures here, or posting screen shots of my EBC values. This is intentional. You need to know what is going on well enough to follow the instructions above. That being said, if you think I missed something, or made a mistake, post up and I'll correct the instructions accordingly.
Enjoy
Last edited by ZX-Tex; 08-10-2009 at 02:30 PM.
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08-10-2009, 01:08 PM
#3
I can almost guarantee that it will be. Unless you run a nice EWG like a Tial you will probably see dramatic increases. Even with a nice EWG like a Tial you will see 200-300 gain usually.
Another thing to remember is to make sure your WG arm is as tight as you can have it to run your max boost without overshoot or creep. Otherwise the pressure in the turbine housing can force the flapper open on its own.
Another thing to remember is to make sure your WG arm is as tight as you can have it to run your max boost without overshoot or creep. Otherwise the pressure in the turbine housing can force the flapper open on its own.
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08-10-2009, 02:24 PM
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I can almost guarantee that it will be. Unless you run a nice EWG like a Tial you will probably see dramatic increases. Even with a nice EWG like a Tial you will see 200-300 gain usually.
Another thing to remember is to make sure your WG arm is as tight as you can have it to run your max boost without overshoot or creep. Otherwise the pressure in the turbine housing can force the flapper open on its own.
Another thing to remember is to make sure your WG arm is as tight as you can have it to run your max boost without overshoot or creep. Otherwise the pressure in the turbine housing can force the flapper open on its own.
ZX nice writeup. though you may want to edit "Tuning" item 7's last sentence to end in something other than "psi".
Also I'm curious to know the control authority of the closed loop boost control. The manual doesn't mention much about it other than it can change duty cycle according to error and PID settings. It doesn't mention pre-setting values for the duty cycles anywhere. Though Andy's writeup at the adaptronic forums suggests the ECU starts with that setting and tries to hit target boost from there.
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08-10-2009, 02:33 PM
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what if you run an external wg with a soft spring in it?
ZX nice writeup. though you may want to edit "Tuning" item 7's last sentence to end in something other than "psi".
Also I'm curious to know the control authority of the closed loop boost control. The manual doesn't mention much about it other than it can change duty cycle according to error and PID settings. It doesn't mention pre-setting values for the duty cycles anywhere. Though Andy's writeup at the adaptronic forums suggests the ECU starts with that setting and tries to hit target boost from there.
ZX nice writeup. though you may want to edit "Tuning" item 7's last sentence to end in something other than "psi".
Also I'm curious to know the control authority of the closed loop boost control. The manual doesn't mention much about it other than it can change duty cycle according to error and PID settings. It doesn't mention pre-setting values for the duty cycles anywhere. Though Andy's writeup at the adaptronic forums suggests the ECU starts with that setting and tries to hit target boost from there.
For closed loop, I think the deal is that the PID controller is altering the DC% values based on whether you are over or under the target boost level. I believe I read that on the Adaptronic site, maybe the same thread you mention. That is why open-loop has to be set up first. I believe the controller authority limits how much DC% the PID control loop can add or subtract from the open-loop DC%. That would be especially useful while trying to figure out what the heck the PID values should be.
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08-10-2009, 02:59 PM
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wanna do me an experiment? set all the DC values to something lame like "1" and turn the PID on and see what happens. I'm curious and my car isn't currently registered :(
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08-10-2009, 10:42 PM
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So, for example, say you have a 7 psi wastegate, and you are shooting for 12 psi. You tighten the wastegate actuator arm and can only get to 9 psi. Time for the EBC. So you follow the steps above, and find you hit your target boost of 12 psi at 3200 rpm. So you set 3000 RPM at 100%, and set 3500 at 0%. Then you do another pull. You see in the log that you hit 12 psi, but when you get to 3500 RPM it drops back down to 9 psi. So you set the 3500 RPM cell (and all cells above that, might as well) to say 20%. Then you do another pull. You see that you are now hitting 14 psi (and probably your boost limiter) at 3500 psi. Whoops, too much. Try 15% at 3500 and above. Then you do another pull....
It is trial and error really. But once you get the hang of it, you can get the EBC dialed in and a nice flat boost line all the way to redline in about 6-8 pulls.
Last edited by ZX-Tex; 08-11-2009 at 11:00 AM.
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(I've been wanting to use that smiley). Well done everyone this becoming a great Miata/Adaptronic specific forum.
09-13-2009, 09:34 PM
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Killer write-up... gonna give this a try tomorrow evening now that I am running as much boost as my stock WG can handle.
Thanks for the write up and will let you know how she does!
Cheers,
M@
Thanks for the write up and will let you know how she does!
Cheers,
M@
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09-15-2009, 12:40 AM
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question for you.
would it be possible to set up the ebc solenoid so that the ground wire leading to the ecu is on a toggle switch? In conjunction with this would it be possible to connect the wastegate actuator to the normally open port of the ebc solenoid so that with said power switch turned off the system is running wastegate pressure and with the switch activated the ebc will be activated?
would this setup result in tuning issues?
is this bad for the computer or solenoid to have a switch activating it?
would the solenoid wear out prematurely in this configuration?
Would it make a difference if the signal source for the boost control is before or after the intercooler?
BTW, i really like your idea of using the MBC in parallel with the EBC to safeguard against pressure spikes.
would it be possible to set up the ebc solenoid so that the ground wire leading to the ecu is on a toggle switch? In conjunction with this would it be possible to connect the wastegate actuator to the normally open port of the ebc solenoid so that with said power switch turned off the system is running wastegate pressure and with the switch activated the ebc will be activated?
would this setup result in tuning issues?
is this bad for the computer or solenoid to have a switch activating it?
would the solenoid wear out prematurely in this configuration?
Would it make a difference if the signal source for the boost control is before or after the intercooler?
BTW, i really like your idea of using the MBC in parallel with the EBC to safeguard against pressure spikes.
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10-15-2009, 08:06 AM
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I have the same GM ebc solenoid, and i attached it to the same points (Aux 3, and blk/wht wire from the diagnostic port.
problem is that i can get fully open and fully closed by toggling the invert key, but i can't seem to get any partial opening. any ideas?
problem is that i can get fully open and fully closed by toggling the invert key, but i can't seem to get any partial opening. any ideas?
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