r2t2

K... Here's my question. Can I replace the pre-cat narrow band O2 sensor with the WB and can I do so without it throwing a code? Or would I be just better off welding a bung on the header for the WB and let the two NB sesnsors continue to do their thing. I have the LC-1 WBO2 kit.

Stein

iTrader: (46)

Weld in a bung. I would suspect it will throw a code as the way the car tests cat efficiency is the difference between sensor one and sensor two. Take one out and it can't compare between the two.

Besides, bung one is likely too close to the turbo and would likely cook your WBO2 sensor sooner. Mine is right before the cat on my Begi pipe. It should be at least 18" downstream from the turbo. I know that some have run them closer but I wouldn't.

TravisR

iTrader: (9)

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/s...C-1_Manual.pdf
Pg 18

r2t2

Kewl guys...

Stein, I know that you're turbo'd, but I'm dealing with a SC and was wondering how far down stream I could mount the WB? My JR header is ceramic coated and I was thinking of putting the bung on mid pipe... Just fore of the cat but aft of where it bolts up to the header. Whatcha guys think.

I'm still debating which way to go...

Stein

iTrader: (46)

That's where mine is as well. Right before the cat in the midpipe.

samnavy

iTrader: (7)

The Adaptronic doesn't return OBDII codes as far as I know. You can pull the second sensor out of the car and plug the hole. Install the wideband in place of the first sensor and feed the wideband signal directly... the Adaptronic will like that better than NB. This is assuming you're using it standalone.

If you're running it parallel to the stock ECU and need it to return codes, then still install the LC1 in place of the first OEM sensor, and use the SIMULATED NARROWBAND OUTPUT of the LC1 to feed the stock ECU. Almost all name-brand widebands will output a narrowband specifically to feed stock ECU's that can't interpret a wideband signal.

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

If he did that, then the ECU would still throw a code for heater open circuit. He could of course install a resistor across the heater line to satisfy the ECU in that regard, but in the end I'm with Stein here. Install a dedicated bung in the midpipe just fore of the cat. Makes it easy to route the cables as well- attach the LC1 to the PPF, and run the cables up through a slit in the large shift boot.

r2t2

Excellent info guys... Stein/Joe, I think you've convinced me to just install the WB on the mid pipe. I also spoke to one of the guys at FM and he felt that I would save myself a lot of hassles if I did it your way...

So, I defer to the experienced opinions...

Stein

iTrader: (46)

Wow, I have been elevated to "experienced" and mentioned in the same breath as Joe. I truly am not worthy of such praise, while Joe definitely is.

Just hang around here a bit and you will be fine. I had never touched a turbo before January. What little I know I learned here from people waaay smarter about cars than I am.

Jfornachon

iTrader: (23)

I will most likely get scorned and flamed by who knows who, but here goes. I am going to be getting an Adaptronic soon. I would like to install a wideband in the factory location and retain the OEM sensor so that It wount throw a code. I can handle splicing and soldering things that is not a problem. This will be going into a 01 NBB.

I am looking into getting the AEM UEGO as the WB. I was thinking that I could wire up the sensor and run the guage and into the Adaptronic then jumper into the factory ECM so that the computer would not throw a code for no A/F readings. Is there even a code for that? Would it have any bearing on how the car would run without an A/F reading at the factory ECM?

I am not great at the electrical theory, but when a circuit is in parallel would not the voltage reading be the same no mater what branch of the circuit? Hence the reason that I was thinking of running a jumper.

Let me know your thoughts. Either way I don't care I just want to get some idea of which way to go. I would really like to not to start cutting my factory header. I there is somewhere that I can go to get more help please kick me in the right dirrection. Please don't just say install a bung. As I would like to figure this out. I will be going turbo soon Just have to save up some more money to get the kit installed properly.

Have a great day,
Jared

Stein

iTrader: (46)

The Bosch sensor likely won't live long that close to the head. Too hot there. The specifically recommend 24-36" downstream. Might be OK short term, but it is a $68 experiment. (IIRC, that is the replacement cost for the sensor).

dgmorr

iTrader: (4)

Can the WB o2 sensor be installed in the factory location of the second sensor on the NB (non-turbo) if no cat is being used, or is this too far downstream?

Jfornachon

iTrader: (23)

As long as there is no cat, no exhaust leak, and is locatedin the specified location then yah why not.

Hav a great day,
Jared