aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Painted:

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Its in:

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

I'll have a whole set of pictures when I finally get this thing in, but I need to take a day or two off and finish some school stuff. For now here are a couple pics.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Had a long weekend so this post is gonna be a long one. Hope you like pictures. That are out of order.

My favorite part of the install was how I did the wiring. Its what I'm most proud of.

I rewired the fuel injector harness for sequential, along with the Ignition harness for cops. I purchased Sumitomo connectors from Easter Beaver and ran extra wiring alongside the existing harness. I used an 8 pin connector for the fuel, because stock is 6 and I needed 2 extra wires. The ignition harness is wired from where the ignitor used to be and all 4 extra wires go to the middle connector of the megasquirt.

Wiring pictures:













More random pictures of the swap:





My buddy helped me sand, primer, and paint the rusted areas under the master cylinder.







Definitely was a struggle swapping an engine for the first time. The hardest part was getting it in. Finally found a way that works but with some help from someone that had done it before it would have gone faster. Oh well, its in. And wow it feels good. Definitely pulls harder than my old engine. Here is a dyno plot from when it was in Greddygalants car:



And here it is this morning going on a good test drive. Last night I first got it started at 3am and drove to get gas. But the tune was acting weird.

And a fun video. This was before I realized that I had to power cycle the megasquirt to get the ignition to change to sequential.


Thats about it. I'm pretty stoked and it feels great to have completed my first engine swap. Definitely is a good thing to do before I go turbo, engine is stronger and I really know my way around it even better now.

curly

iTrader: (25)

Ha, 1.6 vs. 1.8msm swap is a hilarious comparison.

But 121rwhp is amazing for a beat up 1.6. Hope it works out well for you too.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

I was gonna ask you for the dyno sheet from laz but then I found this in the build thread. It definitely feels more peppy than my old one.

Also is my old engine worth anything? Should I try and sell it or just go straight to the junkyard.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Alright next up is the turbo. I'm building the manifold in 2 weeks, getting oil lines from a local hydraulics shop and building a downpipe. I have everything figured out except an intercooler setup. So I need some help.

My current plan is the 61$ ebay intercooler (here) with an ebay kit of piping. Would I be better off with local piping? Curly, hopefully I can check out your routing when I come grab that trans bolt.

Any other suggestions?

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

I also forgot, found a bunch of diff fluid coating the housing and it looks like its coming from an axle. How hard are axle seals to replace?

curly

iTrader: (25)

Short nose is basically scrap. Ryan's is good and he's probably only going to get $100-$150 out of it, if he's lucky.

Your crank is scrap, so rods, piston, block, and head are worth about $40 each, if you find a buy for each piece, and the piston and rods will probably have to include shipping at that price.

A few months ago I might put it in my garage for an all-out build for my 1.6, but now It'll be a 1.8 or bust in the future.

And yes, check out my routing. Take 3-4 hours on siliconeintakes.com and cxracing.com and on excel. Play with number of couplers and pipes, doing bends with pipe vs. couplers, using more expensive pipe or couplers that might eliminate one of the other, and find the cheapest route. I did this, cut a few pipes to length, and my intercooler basically bolted into place with minimal bends and clamps.

Axles seals are very easy to replace. Pull the axle, pry the seal out, gently tap the new one in.

You most likely have an axle popped out if it suddenly started leaking. Check both sides, make sure the gap between the housing and axle is the same, I'm guessing one has popped out if this is a new random leak.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

I also have been coming up with a plan for a downpipe. I have the turbine flange and I plan on just picking up some pipe from columbia river mandrel bends. They are local and have the bends I need. I also will be picking up a 2 bolt flange to mate it to the corksport I have on there right now. A full 3 inch exhaust will come eventually but for now the corksport will work fine. Its 2.5 the whole way back.

turbofan

iTrader: (1)

It seems lately that eBay intercoolers have been serious junk. There are some available on Amazon that are supposedly better.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

I pulled the trigger on one based on deezum's research and hi_im_sean's results. Hopefully it is decent.

deezums

iTrader: (3)

I <3 my IATs, like 20 above ambient so far. Can't be beat for $60.

turbofan

iTrader: (1)

Hmm I thought you bought yours off Amazon Deezums, I was getting my info from your thread. Reading fail.

deezums

iTrader: (3)

I was about to, but then I got sidetracked somehow. I was buying the "delta-fin" tube/fin deals, which are awful. I think I decided to give it one more shot on e-bay bar/plate since it was $20 cheaper than amazon.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Went to curlys and grabbed a new tranny bolt (thanks curly!) and did some tuning while I was driving around last night too. Things seem to be going well but I am getting a lot more backfiring on deceleration than the old engine. I know the Acel/Decel Enrichment needs to be tuned but I haven't found a good way to tune that. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to tune AE or anything else?

Attached are tunes and a log.

curly

iTrader: (25)

We had timing set to 10* in the bottom row for ***** and giggles. Still there?

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Nope, happened on a couple of ignition tables. Laz's maxed at 20* so I tried that and the diy basemap table.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/mhqp8zagn2...36.48.png?dl=0

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Figured some stuff out. I missed the fact that my bottom row of fueling had some weird numbers in it. Brought them all back down and the backfiring is gone.

Picking up some last things for the turbo build.

Planning on going with 10mm Inconel in the future, but for now just standard studs with grade 8 locking hardware. How do these look for locking hardware:


At first they seem right then they mention allen head bolts. But if I search the part number on summit I get this which seems like the right stuff.

I will most likely get them and return if needed, Amazon has always been awesome with me for returns.

curly

iTrader: (25)

The first picture of the package looks wrong, the second picture is what you want.