2jz Miata build thread
12-20-2010, 04:44 PM
#662
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and all we can do is wait to get bigger injectors as for his setup i cant give it anymore fuel safc is only +/- 50% and im at +50% fuel from 3k to 8k and its still super lean so once sean gets the bigger injectors we will be ready for some real boost and beating on it...
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12-25-2010, 01:36 PM
#664
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Awesome work, I remember when I put a 283 in a Vega, many decades ago. Carburetors made tuning just a bit easier, but this is even better. Fantastic work. So it seems you could put a NA Toyota straight 6 in, a la GS300, and still get ~200 hp without any need to handle the turbo system, but still have the option of FI later?
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12-26-2010, 01:28 PM
#665
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Awesome work, I remember when I put a 283 in a Vega, many decades ago. Carburetors made tuning just a bit easier, but this is even better. Fantastic work. So it seems you could put a NA Toyota straight 6 in, a la GS300, and still get ~200 hp without any need to handle the turbo system, but still have the option of FI later?
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12-29-2010, 08:26 AM
#667
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I just wanted to add a little note to further solidify the fact that this car was meant to be built I got all 6 of my RC 750's for a grand total of $105.00 I am not sure where I find this stuff it just sometimes feels when I freak out because I need injectors or a fuel controller or what ever I seem to stumble into them for cheap most of the injectors came from a friend and the last 2 off eBay but I believe this car is powered by a greater car power somewhere.lol So if anyone else wants to do a crazy build you just have to believe that you can do it and trust that things will fall into place if they are meant to be.
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12-29-2010, 09:02 AM
#668
The Adaptronic is full plug and play and does offer quite a bit more options then the AEM where it counts. I would definitely check it out. I took the unit to SEMA and PRI so I got a taste of whats out there and how we stack up. As a matter of fact there are large companies now looking at buying and repackaging the unit under their label because of the capability and value that is in these little boxes.
Plus any tuner who is worth anything at tuning should be able to tune on every standalone the market has to offer. The devil is in the details, but if you can't read every single ECUs fuel/volumetric map along with ignition map you probably want another tuner.
The minimum advertised price for AEM on all 2J motors comes to around 1800USD. If you find a dealer thats selling them for less then that then you should buy it quickly because he probably won't be a dealer for long. My discount with AEM,which is the best I've heard of, is still much more then $1000 stated. If you buy second hand you get no warranty and probably no support. AEM has outsourced the majority of their support to their dealer network. While they will take calls for easy problems. They will refer you to the dealer where you purchased the unit if the problem is hard to solve. I heard that from AEM direct!
Meanwhile the Adaptronic will set you back 1450 to your hands(which is still less then what I would pay for an AEM PNP as a dealer) and it offers alot of advance traction and launch control features along with special idle modes that AEM does not offer. You also get support from the North America distributor, and I have direct access to the designer of Adaptronic. I don't think you're going to get the engineer of AEM on the phone if you need him haha.
Give it a good think over that's all I'm trying to say. We offer a good package for a good price. We don't have the brand name recognition AEM has, but we do have incredibly good engine management for an excellent price.
Plus any tuner who is worth anything at tuning should be able to tune on every standalone the market has to offer. The devil is in the details, but if you can't read every single ECUs fuel/volumetric map along with ignition map you probably want another tuner.
The minimum advertised price for AEM on all 2J motors comes to around 1800USD. If you find a dealer thats selling them for less then that then you should buy it quickly because he probably won't be a dealer for long. My discount with AEM,which is the best I've heard of, is still much more then $1000 stated. If you buy second hand you get no warranty and probably no support. AEM has outsourced the majority of their support to their dealer network. While they will take calls for easy problems. They will refer you to the dealer where you purchased the unit if the problem is hard to solve. I heard that from AEM direct!
Meanwhile the Adaptronic will set you back 1450 to your hands(which is still less then what I would pay for an AEM PNP as a dealer) and it offers alot of advance traction and launch control features along with special idle modes that AEM does not offer. You also get support from the North America distributor, and I have direct access to the designer of Adaptronic. I don't think you're going to get the engineer of AEM on the phone if you need him haha.
Give it a good think over that's all I'm trying to say. We offer a good package for a good price. We don't have the brand name recognition AEM has, but we do have incredibly good engine management for an excellent price.
Leatherface - the only time I had a problem with fumes including my passenger is when it is idleing in the garage it will make you cry.lol
18psi. - There is a ton of options out there for PNP units MAPecu, AEM, Haltech and some others I am trying to go AEM just for the ease of use in the supra world. Anyone you talk to that has a modified supra will most likely tell you they are running AEM. You can get a pnp used for $400 - $500 and new for $1000 if you look around. MAPecu is good but is limited on what you can do. Tell your freind to PM Slow_Sc3 or me and I will get you in touch with him. He knows just about everything you could want to know about swapping MK2/MK3/MK4 supras and SC300's/400's. Just like in the miata world where Megasuirt dominates AEM is for supra's it part "I have a supra I need expensive name brand things" part they were the first to really make a good pnp for the supra so I would go AEM unless he can find someone who is willing to tune something different.
18psi. - There is a ton of options out there for PNP units MAPecu, AEM, Haltech and some others I am trying to go AEM just for the ease of use in the supra world. Anyone you talk to that has a modified supra will most likely tell you they are running AEM. You can get a pnp used for $400 - $500 and new for $1000 if you look around. MAPecu is good but is limited on what you can do. Tell your freind to PM Slow_Sc3 or me and I will get you in touch with him. He knows just about everything you could want to know about swapping MK2/MK3/MK4 supras and SC300's/400's. Just like in the miata world where Megasuirt dominates AEM is for supra's it part "I have a supra I need expensive name brand things" part they were the first to really make a good pnp for the supra so I would go AEM unless he can find someone who is willing to tune something different.
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01-04-2011, 02:46 PM
#672
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I have caught a HHUUGGEE case of laziness in the last two weeks with all the holidays and things so I now I am all rested up ready to do some work. My plan for the next few weeks is to get the injectors put in with a rough tune and get the basics of the cage put in. I am taking the door bars and under dash cross bar out for now until I am sure what I want to do. I do not need the cross bar for my car and I am not sure what I want to do with the door bars. I am thinking something along the lines of the Hard dog door bar just welded instead of bolted.
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01-08-2011, 10:21 PM
#673
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Got the injectors wired in today need to go to the parts store tomorrow and get a new battery, rtv, and then do some street tuning to at least get it drivable again so I can get it to the shop to do the cage.
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01-09-2011, 10:50 PM
#674
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So here is the update. Put the new injectors (RC 750) in, new spark plugs in, fixed the loose trans mount, then went out for a little street tuning. I know you guys will flame me for this but with the lack of a wideband its hard to tune.lol We were tuning old school by ear and needless to say the car hauls *** at 15psi. We broke loose on a down hill rolling into 4th so it is retarded fast but now there seems to be a small problem. On one of the last pulls back to the house we lifted the head so now its time for some ARP head studs and a new headgasket. Then I will get my wideband hooked up for some real tuning but good news is that it is faster than any miata ever needs to be.
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01-09-2011, 11:03 PM
#676
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It takes mad skills, people did it for a long time before a wideband was around and one of the old guys I used to work with swore by it. I just think we took it a little to far.lol
Also I will soon be adding a set of 26x8.5-R15 to my tire collection to see if we can really get some traction. Should be interesting.
We also had a little short race on the way back to the house with a 2002 WS6 with long tubes, air box, y pipe, and chip and not to sound cocky but we **** all over that thing with a shitty tune so it should be interesting when its done. That car went 12.5 at 110 in the quarter so it deff runs good.lol
Also I will soon be adding a set of 26x8.5-R15 to my tire collection to see if we can really get some traction. Should be interesting.
We also had a little short race on the way back to the house with a 2002 WS6 with long tubes, air box, y pipe, and chip and not to sound cocky but we **** all over that thing with a shitty tune so it should be interesting when its done. That car went 12.5 at 110 in the quarter so it deff runs good.lol
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01-13-2011, 09:40 AM
#677
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So I started to work on the cage last night did not get that much done but here it is without the door bars in it. I am going to make new door bars that are really low when the main part of the cage is in the car. We are also going to add as many gussets as we can to help the structure.
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01-19-2011, 01:11 PM
#679
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Its helps when you have an extra motor that you got for free. Also I took into consideration that my first motor I used more as a mock up than anything. So I will swap the motors and rebuild this one for the next time I pop one.
I am going to be pulling the motor out soon and was wondering what wires I can cut out from my miata harness. I am not using any of the miata related engine wiring other than the oil pressure switch. So I am going to do a wire tuck and cut any additional wiring off my supra harness I do not need. My question is if I cut out all the wiring related to the engine in the miata will it affect anything else. I do not see why it would but just wanted to check. The only wiring I will have going to the front for the miata will be lighting. All engine related wiring will be supra and that I can thin out a lot. Any information on this would help.
I am going to be pulling the motor out soon and was wondering what wires I can cut out from my miata harness. I am not using any of the miata related engine wiring other than the oil pressure switch. So I am going to do a wire tuck and cut any additional wiring off my supra harness I do not need. My question is if I cut out all the wiring related to the engine in the miata will it affect anything else. I do not see why it would but just wanted to check. The only wiring I will have going to the front for the miata will be lighting. All engine related wiring will be supra and that I can thin out a lot. Any information on this would help.
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01-20-2011, 12:44 PM
#680
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So to clear up my previous post if I trace all the wires coming out of my ecu plugs to the engine compartment they should not affect anything. I am not possitive weather or not there are any ground, power, or signal wires daisy chained in. If anyone is aware of anything obvious please let me know.
Another question I would like to get some feedback on is my exhaust. Being that the motor is about to come back out I can now make my exhaust. Should I make a full 3" or full 4" either one would be no cat no muffler just wondering if anyone thinks I will run into restriction issues with 3" or if anyone has put a 4" on there car with success. I am not positive I have enough room.
Another question I would like to get some feedback on is my exhaust. Being that the motor is about to come back out I can now make my exhaust. Should I make a full 3" or full 4" either one would be no cat no muffler just wondering if anyone thinks I will run into restriction issues with 3" or if anyone has put a 4" on there car with success. I am not positive I have enough room.
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