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Got an whole vvt engine for cheap so I'll build it and then swap it in my NA8.
It is a VVT engine from an automatic Miata, work plan is to disassemble it, clean it, measure everything, machine shop, build it and boost it 20-25 psi.
The things I plan to do to it
- Intake manifold total clean
- Intake butterflys delete (must I ?) (or square top)
- Reuse my CAS (any reason not too ? it is much easier this way)
- Reroute + water neck delete
- Reroute the heater metal line under the exhaust manifold
- Use my NA8 alternator
- Head porting
- Block boring 83.5mm ? 84mm ? decision after measures
- VVT on/off using DIYPNP
- Knock sensor utilization with my KS-PRO
- ID1000 injectors
- Sort out the return/returnless fuel lines
- Mazda competition engine mounts
- FM stage 1 clutch kit
- VVT engine starter motor for my 6spd
- ebay rods
- ARP
- pistons+rings not sure which yet
- King bearings (manufactured locally )
- Cast iron ebay manifold
- Ebay turbo
- OEM Oil cooler delete
- Oil cooler
- Oil pressure sender to replace on/off switch
- Oil and fuel pressure sensors
- EGR delete
Got a new engine stand for the job, and a new air compressor.
Got a lot of stuff off the engine and kept all the bolts labeled.
You cant use the CAS and have VVT work. You need to upgrade to the NB sensors. Which is good, what I've seen from the few cars that have done CAS to real sensors at the 300+ power range picked up over 20hp because they didnt have timing scatter and could run more base timing without knock.
You cant use the CAS and have VVT work. You need to upgrade to the NB sensors. Which is good, what I've seen from the few cars that have done CAS to real sensors at the 300+ power range picked up over 20hp because they didnt have timing scatter and could run more base timing without knock.
I didn't know this..but I guess I am dumb because that makes loads of sense.
You cant use the CAS and have VVT work. You need to upgrade to the NB sensors. Which is good, what I've seen from the few cars that have done CAS to real sensors at the 300+ power range picked up over 20hp because they didnt have timing scatter and could run more base timing without knock.
Technically you could add in the VVT Tuner from DIY and have that use NB sensors, while the ecu uses the CAS. Not really the best way to do it, but it is doable.
You cant use the CAS and have VVT work. You need to upgrade to the NB sensors. Which is good, what I've seen from the few cars that have done CAS to real sensors at the 300+ power range picked up over 20hp because they didnt have timing scatter and could run more base timing without knock.
I thought of using the CAS and controling the VVT like that:
I think that most people are assuming that if you are going for 400 hp in a miata, you've got the basics down. But uewh, needs a BE pump and good damper.
As I understand it, reinforced oil pump and dumper are needed for high rpm application, I'm going 7200-7500rpm so I will be using the stock pump and dumper.
As I understand it, reinforced oil pump and dumper are needed for high rpm application, I'm going 7200-7500rpm so I will be using the stock pump and dumper.
subscribed for catastrophic failure.
seriously though, you need at least an oil pump with billlet gears.
Show me one single person running 350 hp with stock pump and damper.
See those negative cats? Contrary to popular belief, they aren't because people dont like you. Those are from poor references, thoughts, and incorrect statements.
You are at the premiere miata turbo forum, take the advice.
Show me one single person running 350 hp with stock pump and damper.
See those negative cats? Contrary to popular belief, they aren't because people dont like you. Those are from poor references, thoughts, and incorrect statements.
You are at the premiere miata turbo forum, take the advice from those that know from past experiences. Facebook is a terrible point of reference.
The E cam looks spot on but the I cam looks a little off - previous install error or is it normal ?
What is the PN for the VVT screw ?
The head bolts are 12mm 12points socket ? can I use regular socket ?
The little metel thingy would not come out... what can I do ?
Very excited
Elior
If by "metel thingy" you mean the main sprocket it should be pryed off.
+1 for the billet pump and ati or super miata damper, you NEED those at that power level. Many people can and will make the argument that you will need a new damper at sub 250 whp power levels
in for -CATastrophic failure.. for 400 you are going to really want billet oil pump gears and a dampner. Its not about rpm, its about the power you are putting through the crank.
It really scares me that you are doing this yourself and you do not know what a keyway is and did not know that a 6 point socket really wont do the job for a 12 point head bolt. Thats super basic info.
01-20-2017, 12:00 PM
300hp to 400hp upgrade
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