93' Miata stolen and flipped build thread
#1621
Cpt. Slow
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One step at a time, looks like some of that is going to be cleaned up soon. I'm assuming he won't leave a giant bundle of red wire back there for instance...
Jeff, I switched the T so the FPR got a direct line of travel from it's source on the intake manifold, and with fresh vacuum line, your hose clamp is most likely overkill. You'll probably do more damage than good on the little vacuum line. A clean black zip tie is probably all you need. Don't forget the Armor All on the zip tie of course. And along the same lines, the giant brass T is most likely overkill, but at least stronger than the plastic ones, albeit less inconspicuous.
I've T'd off the FPR for the MAP, then T'd off the MAP line once it's in the cabin for the MS, and it's worked great for years.
Jeff, I switched the T so the FPR got a direct line of travel from it's source on the intake manifold, and with fresh vacuum line, your hose clamp is most likely overkill. You'll probably do more damage than good on the little vacuum line. A clean black zip tie is probably all you need. Don't forget the Armor All on the zip tie of course. And along the same lines, the giant brass T is most likely overkill, but at least stronger than the plastic ones, albeit less inconspicuous.
I've T'd off the FPR for the MAP, then T'd off the MAP line once it's in the cabin for the MS, and it's worked great for years.
#1622
One step at a time, looks like some of that is going to be cleaned up soon. I'm assuming he won't leave a giant bundle of red wire back there for instance...
Jeff, I switched the T so the FPR got a direct line of travel from it's source on the intake manifold, and with fresh vacuum line, your hose clamp is most likely overkill. You'll probably do more damage than good on the little vacuum line. A clean black zip tie is probably all you need. Don't forget the Armor All on the zip tie of course. And along the same lines, the giant brass T is most likely overkill, but at least stronger than the plastic ones, albeit less inconspicuous.
I've T'd off the FPR for the MAP, then T'd off the MAP line once it's in the cabin for the MS, and it's worked great for years.
Jeff, I switched the T so the FPR got a direct line of travel from it's source on the intake manifold, and with fresh vacuum line, your hose clamp is most likely overkill. You'll probably do more damage than good on the little vacuum line. A clean black zip tie is probably all you need. Don't forget the Armor All on the zip tie of course. And along the same lines, the giant brass T is most likely overkill, but at least stronger than the plastic ones, albeit less inconspicuous.
I've T'd off the FPR for the MAP, then T'd off the MAP line once it's in the cabin for the MS, and it's worked great for years.
Would there be issues with too much voltage draw by tapping both gauges into the same ignition wire source and running an inline 5a 12v fuse on each gauge?
#1628
Yup, I'm just overthinking this as always. Vuti, my wiring skills are so not over that level, I'm basically learning from scratch as I go here.
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As per Curly's advice, I changed the vacuum setup. Put the T on correctly so the FPR is the main line and the T is going to the MS. Boost gauge is then T'd off of the MS vacuum line.
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As per Curly's advice, I changed the vacuum setup. Put the T on correctly so the FPR is the main line and the T is going to the MS. Boost gauge is then T'd off of the MS vacuum line.
#1630
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Wired everything up. Was a lot easier than I was making it in my head. I still need to wire the analog +/- wires but I need to find out what the pins in his ms3 connector goes. He did a DIY ms3x, so brain didn't make it otherwise it would be easy to know what goes where.
All the wiring not going back in the car...thank god
Dashboard harness all cleaned up.
I taped it like this just in case there was an issue with the wires, I could clip the tape really quick. I used anti friction tape to bundle it all together(if you can't tell I love this stuff. $2.36 at Wal-mart...I have 6 rolls of it)
I routed the wires up the oem firewall harness, taping it as I went and pulled it under the HVAC box to the center tombstone. I haven't trimmed the ground cables up yet, I want to wait until I put the dashboard back in.
Said analog cables I still need to connect
#1632
Elite Member
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Is that the same stuff you used to "anti-rattle" the HVAC rods and such? I meant to ask you about that before as I've been looking for something similar that isn't just 'fabric tape' that'll get all squishy when it gets hot. This is gonna sound stupid but I can haz link please?
#1635
Is that the same stuff you used to "anti-rattle" the HVAC rods and such? I meant to ask you about that before as I've been looking for something similar that isn't just 'fabric tape' that'll get all squishy when it gets hot. This is gonna sound stupid but I can haz link please?
Just gotta look around, they tend to move it
#1640
Blue for switched
White for constant
There are 2 white that look identical but one has a small blue stripe on it. Use the pure white one. I had about 5 random unused vampire clips on my ignition harness...don't be that guy.
I'll take some pictures later today but I'm in Cedar City actually doing real work for most the day.
*edit* fixed the constant and switched to the correct wires*