93' Miata stolen and flipped build thread
08-13-2014, 06:32 PM
#2761
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Cedar City, UT
Posts: 239
Total Cats: 5
Backpressure had something to do with it too IIRC
Joe asked in this thread, and the discussion starts two posts below it:
https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquir...99/#post951029
Joe asked in this thread, and the discussion starts two posts below it:
https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquir...99/#post951029
Last edited by Dlaitini; 08-13-2014 at 06:36 PM. Reason: found post where it was explained
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08-14-2014, 09:55 AM
#2762
As I read on another forum while reasearching this a litttle,
I too am confused on why the car runs lean at a higher altitude. In my brain it only makes sense that it would run more rich, rather than an almost full 2 point afr change towards lean.
Weird thing is that even after cycling my key on and off it wouldn't change the initial Baro reading.
Need to do some more reading on this.
I too am confused on why the car runs lean at a higher altitude. In my brain it only makes sense that it would run more rich, rather than an almost full 2 point afr change towards lean.
Weird thing is that even after cycling my key on and off it wouldn't change the initial Baro reading.
Need to do some more reading on this.
Less o2 means less combustion of fuel
At least thats how I see it in my head
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08-14-2014, 12:50 PM
#2763
Elite Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Cedar City, UT
Posts: 2,764
Total Cats: 951
Just drove my Jetta for the first time in 2 weeks. Holy hell it is weird to have power steering again. It feels so fake compared to manual. Also I turn the wheel way too far. I used to think the Jetta was quick, now it feels like I'm accelerating through molasses. Brakes feel 4 times stronger than the miata, but I do have GTI calipers, brass caliper sliders, etc etc. It is amazingly more comfortable and less twitchy on the highway though. Weird to go from the Miata back to German comfort.
Also, I've been contemplating a future wiring harness redo to clean up the (originally)hacked up harness in my car and came across wiring harness **** for the OCD. Granted my massive amounts of wiring to fix the issues helped clean it up quite a bit, but I still have a long way to go in making it perfect.
This redo will be some time in the future as there is no need to do it right now. I'd love to tear out the entire harness and maybe start with an untouched 90-93 harness from the junk yard, take the loom apart, pin it to the wall, and only leave the stuff I need in it. Then use quality motorsport loom, use crimps instead of solder, quality grommets, relays instead of fuses, and then cry or laugh at how nice it is and how much money I just wasted.
Said wiring ****
Pectel SQ6 wiring loom
Also, I've been contemplating a future wiring harness redo to clean up the (originally)hacked up harness in my car and came across wiring harness **** for the OCD. Granted my massive amounts of wiring to fix the issues helped clean it up quite a bit, but I still have a long way to go in making it perfect.
This redo will be some time in the future as there is no need to do it right now. I'd love to tear out the entire harness and maybe start with an untouched 90-93 harness from the junk yard, take the loom apart, pin it to the wall, and only leave the stuff I need in it. Then use quality motorsport loom, use crimps instead of solder, quality grommets, relays instead of fuses, and then cry or laugh at how nice it is and how much money I just wasted.
Said wiring ****
Pectel SQ6 wiring loom
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08-14-2014, 12:53 PM
#2764
The quoted statement is accurate for wastegate-only operation. The control on a wastegate is basically a spring and diaghragm with one end open to your engine compartment (i.e., the atmosphere).
Things are different with EBC though. If you use EBC, the reference is an absolute pressure sensor inside the ECU. So the turbo outlet pressure is actually being controlled to a constant level in this case.
Things are different with EBC though. If you use EBC, the reference is an absolute pressure sensor inside the ECU. So the turbo outlet pressure is actually being controlled to a constant level in this case.
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08-16-2014, 12:13 PM
#2765
Newb
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Navasota tx
Posts: 38
Total Cats: 1
Jeff I have been reading this biography of this car for the past week. It sucked to see it get stolen and wrecked but in turn you rebuilt it and made it your own car. And by God it's gorgeous. By the way did they ever catch the thief? Don't think it was ever mentioned? And the old cigarette smoking guy would **** if he see what his car has turned into!
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08-16-2014, 03:03 PM
#2766
Elite Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Cedar City, UT
Posts: 2,764
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Jeff I have been reading this biography of this car for the past week. It sucked to see it get stolen and wrecked but in turn you rebuilt it and made it your own car. And by God it's gorgeous. By the way did they ever catch the thief? Don't think it was ever mentioned? And the old cigarette smoking guy would **** if he see what his car has turned into!
The car is staying in St George until I find a house to rent with a garage for the right price.
Saying that, now that I know my way around the car, there are about 10 different ways I can ensure the car is never stolen unless they have a flat bed trailer to haul it off with.
In all honesty, as weird as it is to say this, I'm glad it was stolen and wrecked. Sure it was a nightmare initially, but I learned so much about working on cars that I no longer am scared of wrenching on anything anymore. As I've said in the past, before I built it I hadn't done any car modification besides changing the suspension on my Jetta. Plus knowing how to do electrical stuff and knowing how to tune the car is priceless(seriously so glad I know how to do stuff like that now).
Glad you enjoyed the build. I occasionally will read it from the beginning and it is sorta surreal that I did all this. I had a fevered mind at the time with how many hours I put into the car. I hope I never add up how many thousands of hours(and money) I put into the car.
If I ever are the old man again I'm gonna slap the hell out of him for some of the stuff I found out about the car(mainly the crank pulley being hand tight and blowing the engine 15 miles from home).
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08-16-2014, 03:32 PM
#2767
Newb
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Navasota tx
Posts: 38
Total Cats: 1
Well that's great to know. It's always better to wrench on your own vehicle then to pay someone to do it, well to an extent. Well good luck with fine tuning the rest of the tune and getting more comfortable driving it and good luck finding a house w/ garage!
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08-16-2014, 09:32 PM
#2768
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Kingston, Ontario
Posts: 2,910
Total Cats: 51
Just drove my Jetta for the first time in 2 weeks. Holy hell it is weird to have power steering again. It feels so fake compared to manual. Also I turn the wheel way too far. I used to think the Jetta was quick, now it feels like I'm accelerating through molasses. Brakes feel 4 times stronger than the miata, but I do have GTI calipers, brass caliper sliders, etc etc. It is amazingly more comfortable and less twitchy on the highway though. Weird to go from the Miata back to German comfort.
such an odd feel between them.
clutch was the worst. ACT xtreme 6 puck unsprung in the miata, and obvious stock in GTI. GTI is quick, miata was WAY faster
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08-18-2014, 05:41 PM
#2769
Elite Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Cedar City, UT
Posts: 2,764
Total Cats: 951
Trying to solve all the little problems with the car to get it ready for a track day in the near future. So I ordered a few things.
2 x SEAL,OIL (MA02-27-238A) (rear diff axle seals, mine are weeping slowly)
1 x ADJUST GEAR (BW0H-26-733) (can not for the life of me find where I put the rear caliper adjusters)
1 x VAC HOSE (NA01-43-640) (brake master hose, mine had been cut in half for the boost gauge T and I'm trying to eliminate points of failure)
Also have the C.C. cable and switch on the way, the last 2 pieces of the puzzle after I received the controller, on/off switch, actuator etc. from Joyrider. Excited to have at least that creature comfort back. Sadly I may have to pull the dash for easy access to all the wires I need.
Now the big decision. I'm trying to bomb proof the car for future track days and/or gentle reassurance of mind. Things on the list I am considering...Not sure which order I will purchase them, but in my mind, the proper order should be:
1) Dyno tune to ensure there are no issues
2) Oil Cooler
3) Better Radiator to control temps(possibly SuperMiata 949Racing when available in Oct)
4) Meth/water injection to protect the motor from possible detonation on 91 octane(screw you Utah)
4) Wilwood front calipers/2 piece rotors/Carbotech 1521 pads
2 x SEAL,OIL (MA02-27-238A) (rear diff axle seals, mine are weeping slowly)
1 x ADJUST GEAR (BW0H-26-733) (can not for the life of me find where I put the rear caliper adjusters)
1 x VAC HOSE (NA01-43-640) (brake master hose, mine had been cut in half for the boost gauge T and I'm trying to eliminate points of failure)
Also have the C.C. cable and switch on the way, the last 2 pieces of the puzzle after I received the controller, on/off switch, actuator etc. from Joyrider. Excited to have at least that creature comfort back. Sadly I may have to pull the dash for easy access to all the wires I need.
Now the big decision. I'm trying to bomb proof the car for future track days and/or gentle reassurance of mind. Things on the list I am considering...Not sure which order I will purchase them, but in my mind, the proper order should be:
1) Dyno tune to ensure there are no issues
2) Oil Cooler
3) Better Radiator to control temps(possibly SuperMiata 949Racing when available in Oct)
4) Meth/water injection to protect the motor from possible detonation on 91 octane(screw you Utah)
4) Wilwood front calipers/2 piece rotors/Carbotech 1521 pads
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08-18-2014, 06:07 PM
#2770
Do you have an oil temp gauge? The information you get from one can be surprising and disappointing. High RPM = High Oil Temps = Low Oil Pressures. The oil cooler I put on the Red car works great, it's also the biggest one I could find. LOL.
I think your first 3 (at least your first 2) are mandatory. Water temp gauge will tell the story on the radiator, but with good ducting, reroute and high track speeds what you have may do well.
Problem with meth/WI is running out of water during a session. That cost me a motor (and, yes, I had a warning light . . . but I was having so darn much fun!). So you're better off tuning out detonation. Since our pistons are oil-cooled, keeping oil temperature in check is also important for det.
OEM brakes work well but will require frequent pad replacement due to taper. The BBKs are mainly for durability, not for braking performance unless you're going as fast as some of the track heavy-hitters. I would not take 1521 pads to the track. XP8 minimum, and, yes, they can be driven on the street just fine. Fresh fluid is just about the most important thing to do for your brakes.
I think your first 3 (at least your first 2) are mandatory. Water temp gauge will tell the story on the radiator, but with good ducting, reroute and high track speeds what you have may do well.
Problem with meth/WI is running out of water during a session. That cost me a motor (and, yes, I had a warning light . . . but I was having so darn much fun!). So you're better off tuning out detonation. Since our pistons are oil-cooled, keeping oil temperature in check is also important for det.
OEM brakes work well but will require frequent pad replacement due to taper. The BBKs are mainly for durability, not for braking performance unless you're going as fast as some of the track heavy-hitters. I would not take 1521 pads to the track. XP8 minimum, and, yes, they can be driven on the street just fine. Fresh fluid is just about the most important thing to do for your brakes.
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08-18-2014, 06:26 PM
#2771
Elite Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Cedar City, UT
Posts: 2,764
Total Cats: 951
The oil temp gauge will be indicative with the oil cooler. I know I should probably get the data from the gauge first, but I'm sure I'll have a problem with temps with the 2860 and keeping the engine above 3500 for spool.
Trying to decide on 949's oil cooler kit or building one myself with some fancy AN connections. Need to do some pricing research on building it myself/time invested vs just buying it from Emilio and slotting it in the car.
I forgot to add that I just bought another 48x96 ABS plastic sheet. Going to completely retool my radiator cowling/undertray and make it more professional and easy to remove with Dzus Fasteners.
Good points on the possible worst case scenario on water/meth. After a bit of research it looks like there may be a good solution to changing the timing map in an empty tank/failed sprayer/pump scenario. Still in the back of my mind and probably not going to happen unless I research it some more.
Brakes will be down the line for sure. Mostly looking at the points you addressed in regards to purchasing them.
Trying to decide on 949's oil cooler kit or building one myself with some fancy AN connections. Need to do some pricing research on building it myself/time invested vs just buying it from Emilio and slotting it in the car.
I forgot to add that I just bought another 48x96 ABS plastic sheet. Going to completely retool my radiator cowling/undertray and make it more professional and easy to remove with Dzus Fasteners.
Good points on the possible worst case scenario on water/meth. After a bit of research it looks like there may be a good solution to changing the timing map in an empty tank/failed sprayer/pump scenario. Still in the back of my mind and probably not going to happen unless I research it some more.
Brakes will be down the line for sure. Mostly looking at the points you addressed in regards to purchasing them.
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08-21-2014, 01:23 PM
#2777
Elite Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Cedar City, UT
Posts: 2,764
Total Cats: 951
Also we need Vlad to turbo his Miata again.
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