93' Miata stolen and flipped build thread
03-27-2015, 07:47 PM
#3603
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I always buy my electrical stuff from Ballenger Motorsports. He carries a **** load of Miata centric connectors and other cool stuff for good prices. Tons of wire choices too. If it isn't on the site he can usually order it.
http://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/mazda_miata.php
http://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/mazda_miata.php
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03-27-2015, 07:54 PM
#3606
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I'm in the same boat
Because in my case, its British. It should have gone in the trash rather than in a car. A "factory replacement" harness or even a "factory style" replacement harness is NOT what I want. I need to re-engineer the whole damn thing from scratch.
Last time I looked at Ballenger the prices for small spools were not competitive, but I'll look again. Thanks!
Because in my case, its British. It should have gone in the trash rather than in a car. A "factory replacement" harness or even a "factory style" replacement harness is NOT what I want. I need to re-engineer the whole damn thing from scratch.
Last time I looked at Ballenger the prices for small spools were not competitive, but I'll look again. Thanks!
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03-27-2015, 08:18 PM
#3609
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Dunno if it is just due to getting older and body feeling more broke but I'm willing to pay note for sake of convenience nowadays. Within reason of course...
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03-27-2015, 08:38 PM
#3610
Because gutting a body harness is why i need to rewire an entire car in the first place. And there aren't any of these in junkyards. And the body harness integrates into the engine harness in 3 places. Seems easier to just wire only what i need and get a new engine harness to go with MS while i'm at it.
It's a mess. :(
It's a mess. :(
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03-29-2015, 08:37 PM
#3611
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Continuity achieved time to wire it to the igniter, run 2&4 to megasquirt, the ground to the block and start her up.
Each COP was shrink wrapped followed by a layer of fusing tape and then wrapped again to make one nice bundle.
Luckily found uninsulated inline splice at a tiny hardware store in town, so there wasn't any bulky crimps used, they were about the same size as the 18g wire. So far the only place that will have solder is the igniter.
Weighs almost half what my old harness did.
Each COP was shrink wrapped followed by a layer of fusing tape and then wrapped again to make one nice bundle.
Luckily found uninsulated inline splice at a tiny hardware store in town, so there wasn't any bulky crimps used, they were about the same size as the 18g wire. So far the only place that will have solder is the igniter.
Weighs almost half what my old harness did.
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03-30-2015, 01:22 AM
#3612
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Well went to start her up checked over everything thrice and cranked it without the CAS hooked up to build oil pressure through the lines, which it did....and then proceeded to vomit all the oil onto the ground through the oil filter.
It may have looked like it sealed against the Mocal sandwich plate but it was really bottoming out with like 1mm left to thread on. Need to remove the threaded tube and cut an inch off of it and then try again tomorrow.
It may have looked like it sealed against the Mocal sandwich plate but it was really bottoming out with like 1mm left to thread on. Need to remove the threaded tube and cut an inch off of it and then try again tomorrow.
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03-30-2015, 02:16 PM
#3615
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So someone school me on how to connect my 2 port EWG to my EBC. I have this picture which I believe is correct, but am not sure. I think I've been staring at it too long
As for the built in BOV on the EFR, do I connect it to the 1/8NPT port on my throttle body intercooler pipe? I've been burning the candle between work and car too much and it I'd affecting my deduction skills.
As for the built in BOV on the EFR, do I connect it to the 1/8NPT port on my throttle body intercooler pipe? I've been burning the candle between work and car too much and it I'd affecting my deduction skills.
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03-30-2015, 02:43 PM
#3617
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You don't strictly have to use both ports on the EWG quite yet. Hook it up exactly like you had it before to the top port, leave the EWG bottom port open to atmo and roll with it until you figure out how you want to plumb things. It'll function exactly like the single port actuator did on the Garrett.
What weight of spring are you playing with?
Edit: ****, don't quote me on that. It looks like some dual port EWGs have different plumbing requirements when only using one port. Best to look up what the manufacturer says to do. But you can do it.
What weight of spring are you playing with?
Edit: ****, don't quote me on that. It looks like some dual port EWGs have different plumbing requirements when only using one port. Best to look up what the manufacturer says to do. But you can do it.
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