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Old 07-10-2014, 12:18 PM   #2601
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottyP3821 View Post

Yes he already posted it.

Edit: Page 69

Last edited by ofspunk7; 07-10-2014 at 12:19 PM. Reason: Ninja Edit
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Old 07-10-2014, 12:36 PM   #2602
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Derpa der my bad so many comments go through here I dont always read all of them
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Old 07-14-2014, 01:57 PM   #2603
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Spent the weekend playing a game of find the little problems that are adding up to the whole.

Took the I.M. off and put a small amount of RTV between the lower and upper. I have the metal gasket but didn't have a replacement so this is the easy/painintheasslater fix. New RTV on both the EGR blocking plates. When they were powdercoated I had forgotten to put fresh RTV on it.

Changed my vacuum lines on my BOV to the top of the I.M. right behind the T.B.. I originally had it on the side and was worried I wasn't getting a good reading off that port.

Who knows if all those things actually were leaking but I had a slight oscillation in my idle that I couldn't fix so I'm hoping that was part of the problem.

Fixed a small short in my #1 COP that would lose signal intermittently. Was a pain in the *** to recreate the problem and find which one was the issue.

Checked a lot of my splices on the ecu wires to see if there was problems. Still can't figure out why Tunerstudio is sticking at 14.8 AFR and only budging under heavy throttle input. Analog + is going to lambda analog- going to the ground on the diybob and ground going to the power ground. I have continuity on all 3 so I'm scratching my head.

Sanded the engine/battery ground points down to the bare metal and chased the threads, to ensure grounds weren't an issue.

My tach/coolant/gas gauges may be an electrical problem as Rev and I have tried many things to get them to work. Checked for faults on the back on the cluster and couldn't find any and all the fuses check out as well. Haven't had time to check for voltage on the individual gauges/bulbs.

Going to have a chance this afternoon to see if it all worked or not. Getting the windows tinted on Thursday and my headlight lid should be done getting painted tomorrow.

Just wish I could fix the AFR issue in TS so I could tune out the rich spikes I'm hitting occasionally.

So a lot done and not a lot done, but it is good to be finding little stuff I can work on.
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Old 07-14-2014, 04:08 PM   #2604
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MS dont care about no vacuum leak. idle oscillation sounds like a tuning issue; or lack there of.

sounds like you're inputting a narrowband singal the MS. Either change it in the LM Programmer or switch the wire from your LC1 to analog 2 (brown).

tach/coolant/gas - fuse. replace the fuse that you blew. IIRC it's the meter fuse.

tune.
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Old 07-14-2014, 05:03 PM   #2605
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You don't want your bov behind the throttle plate. Doesn't work at all.

My AEM wiring was pinched under the shifter boot for years, and started reading 14.8 steady. Look for any damage along the outer sheath, maybe some wires got pinched like mine.
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Old 07-14-2014, 05:17 PM   #2606
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
MS dont care about no vacuum leak. idle oscillation sounds like a tuning issue; or lack there of.

sounds like you're inputting a narrowband singal the MS. Either change it in the LM Programmer or switch the wire from your LC1 to analog 2 (brown).

tach/coolant/gas - fuse. replace the fuse that you blew. IIRC it's the meter fuse.

tune.
It is an AEM analog gauge. Fuses are fine, it isn't the meter fuse.

BOV valve is before the throttle body Curly merely talking about the vacuum line.

I'll check on pinched wiring.
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Old 07-14-2014, 05:30 PM   #2607
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what wb do you specifically have?
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Old 07-14-2014, 05:34 PM   #2608
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
what wb do you specifically have?
AEM 30-5130 Wideband
http://www.aemelectronics.com/?q=pro...uego-afr-gauge
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Old 07-14-2014, 09:50 PM   #2609
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the analog one that is a pain in the butt to get to play nice with TS
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Old 07-14-2014, 11:37 PM   #2610
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 18psi View Post
the analog one that is a pain in the butt to get to play nice with TS
Hmm hadn't heard that before. I guess I could try putting the old AEM digital gauge back in. Hopefully I won't have to rewire anything.
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Old 07-14-2014, 11:44 PM   #2611
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I've had same issues with one when I tuned an sc na. Never had problems with the digital ones. Ever
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Old 07-14-2014, 11:45 PM   #2612
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 18psi View Post
I've had same issues with one when I tuned an sc na. Never had problems with the digital ones. Ever
Damn. Oh well not a huge issue. If it doesn't work in a bit when I give it a go I'll try swapping it out.
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Old 07-15-2014, 11:12 AM   #2613
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what are you talking about, this is simple:

Quote:
WHITE – The WHITE wire should be connected to the Lambda + input on the EMS or the analog + input on a similar device.
BROWN – The BROWN wire should be connected to the Lambda – input or the analog – input. If the EMS or similar device does not have a – input, the BROWN wire should be connected to a sensor ground. If no sensor ground is available, the BROWN wire should be connected to a power ground. Note: The BROWN wire must be connected in order to get correct readings from the analog output.

I mean just follow the instructions

connect the white wire to the analog + input on the MS
and then connect the brown wire to the analog - input, or a sensor ground, or a power ground.



sounds like you should connect the white wire the MS wbo2 input and the brown wire should be connected to the sensor ground (black/ lt. green).
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Old 07-15-2014, 11:16 AM   #2614
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That wideband works fine on our car. I don't LIKE it, but it works fine.
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Old 07-15-2014, 11:18 AM   #2615
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Quote:
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Fuses are fine, it isn't the meter fuse.
so it's the tacho, fuel gauge, clt temp gauge, and oil pressure gauge?

then you're missing a ground to the cluster.

http://www.miataforumz.com/1990-200-...ing/92diag.pdf

page 6. ground going to 2J.

everything would be out if the meter fuse was gone, my mistake. see how it provides 12v to all gauges and bulbs.
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Old 07-15-2014, 11:31 AM   #2616
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post

so it's the tacho, fuel gauge, clt temp gauge, and oil pressure gauge?

then you're missing a ground to the cluster.

http://www.miataforumz.com/1990-200-...ing/92diag.pdf

page 6. ground going to 2J.

everything would be out if the meter fuse was gone, my mistake. see how it provides 12v to all gauges and bulbs.
Thanks Scott. I'll take a look at that tonight.

Reason I connected the AFR to the power ground rather than sensor was after multiple people saying they got a better, less noisy, signal from the power ground. Seems I was wrong. I'll have to try the 02 wire as well.

Hope(it should) this works, they are the only remaining issues with the car besides the suspension squeaking in and out of parking lots and adjusting the rear calipers a little for a better e-brake bite.
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Old 07-16-2014, 12:18 AM   #2617
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The last "screw you Jeff" of the evening after getting tunerstudio reading right is my wideband sensor goes bad. Or at least I believe that is the issue. With the car off and the key turned, instead of going full lean it goes full pig stinking rich and dies when I start it up after idling for a couple seconds.

Do you have to buy an AEM specific sensor or will any do?
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Old 07-16-2014, 01:07 AM   #2618
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aem specific

take it out and "do the test"
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Old 07-16-2014, 08:17 AM   #2619
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 18psi View Post
aem specific

take it out and "do the test"
Test failed! I'm guessing it was clogged/damaged when I had the oil into the header due to my catch can problem. Probably damaged it a little.

Luckily in my box of many things from the PO I had 2 spares. First one I dropped in brought it back to life. Turbo smoked for the first 5 minutes and then started to clear out. Guessing it was from truing to start it when it failed. Hopefully I don't have to buy a new sensor anytime soon. Checked the prices of them, $75 for a sensor? Crazy town.

Also while I was under the car I noticed oil drips from the stub axles and a bit of oil on the rear subframe. Hoping it isn't diff oil as I really don't want to drop the diff. Just in case I'm going to pick some more diff oil up and top it off to see how much has leaked.
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Old 07-16-2014, 08:38 AM   #2620
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You don't need to drop the diff to replace the side seals just FYI.
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