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Old 02-27-2016, 07:30 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curly View Post
K.I.S.S. Get either FF, rx8, or some pre-cleaned rx7/RC injectors.
ok I will get bigger injectors, but I have to wonder what the actual output of the 305's would be on an all stock system? like power and useable psi wise? couldn't find a number anywhere
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Old 02-27-2016, 07:34 PM   #22
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Check RC's injector calculator. Pretty easy to find out.
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Old 02-28-2016, 01:38 AM   #23
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Just get the Rx-8's and be done
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Old 02-28-2016, 01:49 PM   #24
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Alright so I went to pull the header to test fit and found the egr tube. What should I do? Cut it? I tried removing it but no room to get a wrench in. Also all 7/8 exhaust studs came out. Buy new ones? I also will probably use an internal wastegate so that's another 40$, plus the 150$ for new injectors, and the new rad. Also I found out a few things about deh car. I never really introduced the car here. It's a 95 that had some rocker rust, which I repaired kinda shitty but looks OK from 4 feet away. And the paint sucked so I paid some local to do it and I'm less than impressed.


After 2 months and barely any driving the paint is bubbling, not because of rust but because of a shitty prep job. Also they missed a few spots. Good thing is it's right where I'm going to try and replicate the OEM chip guard so its gonzo either way.


Give it to me straight doc, how does it look?

Next weekend I might pull the trans and do the clutch, wish me luck. My goal is to have this running by the end of March
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95m goes kinda fast for kinda cheap-80-img_20160228_103255094_hdr_ddf8d4b9b687b4c20cad6e59a8fcb04d843ec55f.jpg   95m goes kinda fast for kinda cheap-80-img_20160228_113749660_hdr_2779d037c2057c44b6f4a56d05dfa3f8c7b7efe9.jpg  

Last edited by Forrest95M; 02-28-2016 at 01:50 PM. Reason: Adding new pics
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Old 02-28-2016, 02:07 PM   #25
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You can keep the exhaust studs, new ones will do the same after a few dozen heat cycles. But keep in mind I'd suggest replacing it if this were anyone else.

And you can get a wrench on the EGR, keep trying. But if you're in a rust area it probably won't break loose. You'll want to save it though, because it's the easiest way to make a cap for the turbo manifold, if it doesn't already have one.
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Old 02-28-2016, 02:09 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curly View Post
You can keep the exhaust studs, new ones will do the same after a few dozen heat cycles. But keep in mind I'd suggest replacing it if this were anyone else.

And you can get a wrench on the EGR, keep trying. But if you're in a rust area it probably won't break loose. You'll want to save it though, because it's the easiest way to make a cap for the turbo manifold, if it doesn't already have one.
Cap for what? The turbo mani has no egr hole any where
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Old 02-28-2016, 03:19 PM   #27
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Fak, you guys are going to love this




The turbo doesn't fit
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Old 02-28-2016, 04:00 PM   #28
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Yeah if you don't have an EGR, are you sure it's not a 1.6 manifold?
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Old 02-28-2016, 04:10 PM   #29
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Don't think they even thought about an egr port, damn Chinese
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Old 02-28-2016, 07:05 PM   #30
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Well I think I can do either A. Cut the shelf or B. Fab up a 45 or 90 degree flange to compensate, boat loads or room that way.
Also the down pipe actually looks like it might work. I also be using a second hand ebizzle wastegate that I've reseated. Not perfect but better than nothing. I believe brain used a similar turbo in a build that he's done that I've read about. All those seemed to use too mount mani's. I would betcha 50 cents that tacotaco took the t25 cast mani, changed a few holes, and called it quits without checking clearance.




Yikes
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Old 02-28-2016, 07:10 PM   #31
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Well don't forget to clock your crha, and look up FM's instructions for cutting the shelf. Very common.
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Old 02-29-2016, 11:36 AM   #32
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Yeah you have to cut or bend down that shelf lip. Same as all other FM/Begi setups. The T2 and T3 tacotaco manifolds are exactly the same, the holes for the studs are just drilled in slightly different places.

Here are the FM directions. Section 3A talks about how and where to cut.


Here is my tacotaco with a t3 on it with the shelving removed.

Last edited by shuiend; 02-29-2016 at 12:01 PM.
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Old 02-29-2016, 05:04 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shuiend View Post
Yeah you have to cut or bend down that shelf lip. Same as all other FM/Begi setups. The T2 and T3 tacotaco manifolds are exactly the same, the holes for the studs are just drilled in slightly different places.

Here are the FM directions. Section 3A talks about how and where to cut.


Here is my tacotaco with a t3 on it with the shelving removed.
I don't have anywhere near that much clearance. Is that a .50 cold side and .63 hot side, thanks for picture though. Much appreciated!
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Old 02-29-2016, 05:13 PM   #34
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No, because Lars isn't stupid enough to waste time on that turbo.

It's a .42 compressor and .48 turbine. The turbo you have is huge and useless.
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Old 02-29-2016, 05:32 PM   #35
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Quote:
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No, because Lars isn't stupid enough to waste time on that turbo.

It's a .42 compressor and .48 turbine. The turbo you have is huge and useless.
Thanks for letting me know that now I guess rather than later down the road. Now what direction should I go in? Should I pack my bags and just leave after that fail? I didn't really didn't have any money riding on that so I guess I'm emotionally ok. Thanks for the input
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Old 02-29-2016, 05:37 PM   #36
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Buy the proper t3, it is a smaller exhaust housing and will not hit the shelf as hard.

I have a friend in KC who mounted the proper MKturbo T3 on the same t3 taco manifold. He does not even need to trim the shelf near the shock tower, only for the downpipe.



Buy this
T3 48AR 2 5" V Band Exhaust Flange 42AR Comp Internal Wastegate Turbo Charger | eBay
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Old 02-29-2016, 05:37 PM   #37
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Oh thank god I was going to drive over right now with a bottle of merlot. Im glad you're ok.
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Old 02-29-2016, 07:09 PM   #38
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So a new turbo will be bought (t3 .42 comp, .48 ar), new injectors (probably 550cc rx7), and a new rad. Any one have see anything wrong with the rest of this? Tacotaco mani, oil lines, will have to make wastegate cover, v band down pipe, some sort of exhaust (haven't decided), boost gauge, act 4 puck clutch, FMIC, IC pipes, wideband, and I think thats all of it.
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Old 03-01-2016, 12:04 AM   #39
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I have a few questions, 1 is I've seen a few videos of people using the same turbo. Is it possible to use at all? Or extremely laggy and have a high boost threshold. I understand that it's a pretty big turbo, if it's absolutely necessary I will go buy a new one. But if it isn't I'd like to try and make it work. I haven't been able to find a definitive answer anywhere. I understand that it's terrible choice, just asking.


On another note I picked up 4 wrx 440cc denso injectors, cleaned and flow tested for 60$
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Old 03-01-2016, 12:50 AM   #40
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You have a T3/T04E as far as I can tell. This thing here.
VMS T3 T04E Turbo Charger turbocharger 50 AR 57 Trim 400 HP External Wastegate | eBay

It will do nothing till high rpms, then it will try and eject the rods. This video doesn't show anything useful, but you can kind of hear it. No full boost till 4,000 or later.


Instead, you could have the smaller turbo that can do full spool 3,000 or better, and it will still eject the rods on the top end on a stock rotating engine assembly. Area under the curve makes the car fun, your car as planned will not be fun and will instead get you many tickets.

google-fu finds me this. You can look for more from here.
2000 miata, T3/T4 based DIY kit - MX-5 Miata Forum

MX-5 Miata Forum - View Single Post - FOr those of you T3/T04E users, Any dyno plots?
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