from what I found on google and people I know who has used it... some guys love it, lasts a long time, others peels right away, think its a POS etc. The difference seems to be in the prep work/following the directions... I roughed up the surface, cleaned it really well, and following the paint application/bake procedures to the T. Crossing my fingers... never used this stuff before haha. it says good for 2000 degrees F. I"ll let you guys know . I figured now was the best time to do it if I was gonna. I'm purely doing it to avoid rust on outside... obviously ceramic coating inside and out is the best way to go.
wonton- Yeah I used too much, but since then I pulled it all apart again to paint the manifold so I get to give it a second shot haha. I was able to peel off some of that excess so it wasnt so ugly looking, but there was some overflow on the inside as well... probably no big deal but I'd like to avoid that and having it fly thru the turbine.
Well long story short, I needed to drop the oil pan, so I just pulled the motor instead. Never done anything like that before, but really wasn't that bad, and now that it's out, a lot of other stuff like clutch/flywheel, coolant reroute, and oil pan tapping will be 10x easier. Waiting for a few parts to come in...hopefully this week, probably have the motor back in in 1-2 weeks i hope.
it has like 20k miles on new pump/belt... i think I'm gonna pass on that, save that for a year or two down the road haha.
also should be getting all new coolant hoses and some misc hoses to replace in the mail today. Also clutch was ridiculously easy with motor out (never done the swap before either on any car).
if you have the resources I would almost recommend pulling motor as step 1 for any somewhat in depth turbo build, it is definitely saving me a lot of headaches in the long run I think, plus it's all a great learning experience for me.
Did a lot of work today with steve (thanks steve/messiah).
I replaced all of the coolant hoses... steve did the injectors, then we went to tackle the oil pan. I also mounted the manifold and turbo and ran the oil lines.
Got it dropped... realized you needed/car used rubber gaskets for front and rear, so I ended up driving 1 hour each way to get some, ugh. Spent a lot of time scraping RTV... but it's all back togehtr now with a properly tapped drain and clean oil pan.
Yeah, someone told me they used a stepped drill bit and it worked out great, of course the one I picked up was smaller I guess, so I had to go in further. Halfway thru the drilling process I could see it thru the hole but i wasn't totally clear if I would make it or not. I said screw it and just went for it. Been a good experience pulling the motor etc though.
So my advice on this is.... (I'm sure I wont be the last to do hit the pickup)... get a big stepped drill bit, aka so the 2nd step or whatever is the size you want- and you should be golden. I even bought an actual regular drill bit but there was no way I could even reach the side of the pan at a decent angle.
Might I suggest something better than a hose barb on the oil pan, especially now that you have the pan off. $10 for a AN fitting, and $40 to have it welded to the pan. Oil drain tube leaks suck, yet are easily avoidable once the pan is off.
That was the problem I had, and I couldn't get a clamp to hold stainless steel hose on tight enough to be leak free, so I screwed a npt-an fitting in. I have yet to take my own advice and weld on a bung yet. I've snugged my fitting And/or completely resealed it a number of times.
it crossed my mind, but I hadn't planned ahead on that, and I didnt want the motor to sit like that for a week or whatever while I got the bung....had time to work on the car again, etc. I used a good bit of rtv to help seal the threads (hopefully)
well.... it runs. been busy with the holidays and getting ready for deployment, but i got it to the point where I can start and drive it at least. So now it's stored at home until i get back!!
Some issues I'm having that I did not have with the car pre turbo (I was running MS pre turbo)... Coolant temp is stuck at 180. The car dashboard (by speedo) is reading temp just fine, but MS is having an issue reading it. Same for AFR...my XD16 gauge just shows "---" which means its getting no signal from the LC-1, and looks like MS might not be seeing the reading at all either. My fuel table was good before I did all this, so I just ran open loop and drove it about 2 miles home it was fine... but I probably just need to pull apart the ECU and check connections it sounds like? Other than that all was great, started up pretty easy, no leaks, etc etc.
I drove it 3-4 miles home, it ran alright...but i wouldn't wanna do any sort of extended driving on it till my ECT and AFR issues at least is sorted out. I got all sorts of weird looks on the road because it was so stupidly loud lol
but yeah... mid march i will be able to get back into it, hopefully done just in time for spring/summer weather up here in Ft walton
nah, open 3" catless downpipe. was a cellphone recording so sound was pretty crappy, it's obnoxiously loud (but kinda cool i guess? lol). I need another v band clamp then I am going to hook the rest of it all up together. I only have 1 small little muffler otherwise so it will probably sound pretty similar just not quite as loud..