aidandj

iTrader: (5)

@Faeflora

Tell me bout slashcuts

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

@deezums

My filter on the exhaust side has become basically saturated with oil and is probably already dripping. What do we think about another HD catch can on the exhaust side with a filter on one side?

deezums

iTrader: (3)

It would work much the same way, with the only disadvantage being it'll be plumbed in backwards half the time. I don't think it'll really bother it much.

I'm wondering if you aren't gathering oil in baffle on track though, maybe modifying the port size to drain oil back would help, then you wouldn't need the catch can, and less blowbly pressure as a bonus?

I need to open mine and take pictures.

Girz0r

iTrader: (1)

Miata Turbo Forum - Turbo Kitten is watching you test compression. - Search Results

Does that halp?

https://www.miataturbo.net/esp_searc...query=slashcut

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Yeah thats on my list too.

There are some good pictures in that thread where the guy tests the pressure.

Pics from you would be cool too.

Maybe I'll play with scrap aluminum and make a catch can.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

I was hoping for a fun rant. I've done that before.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

And I've been thinking about the clearance issue on the brake calipers. It might have to do with how we cut it real close on the thickness of the rotors. Calipers just flex too much maybe?

This saturday will tell more. I'm going to find some high temp paint or rtv or something and put a layer on the area that rubbed before. Its going to get real annoying if we have to space these differently for every rotor

deezums

iTrader: (3)

I guess it's possible, we are over spec IIRC.

I'm not sure how much extra flex a two piece hat would make up, I'm having a hard time seeing it...

You never felt the pedal going wavy on track right, ever stopped hard in a car with warped rotors? You know the shimmy feel, right?

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

I got some soft pedal, never wavy pedal.

Girz0r

iTrader: (1)

Here's even the very thread where Fae considers

https://www.miataturbo.net/general-m...ontents-55244/

And where 18 trolls Fae's said setup.
https://www.miataturbo.net/engine-pe...ot-info-74425/

I enjoy ruining your fun

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Here's the tiny hole mod. Is that what you were talking about deezums?

https://www.miataturbo.net/engine-pe...ication-54742/

deezums

iTrader: (3)

Yep, that's it or the majority of it. 1.6 is different.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

I'll do the hole this winter. Won't enlarge the ports because **** ruining the powdercoating. I'll do that on my 1.8 valve cover.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Doing more holset reading. **** is pretty mysterious. Everything basically says take this with a grain of salt because were not totally sure its true.

HX-30 came in a 6cm^2 housing and a 12cm^2 housing. I believe there was a 16cm^2 too.

6cm^2 housing equates to a .41 A/R. Which is pretty small. The 12cm^2 is more like a .89 A/R. The wastegates look like ****. And understandably. A lot of the reading I've done shows that wastegates are often "optional" on diesel builds, because they never rev high enough to put the turbo out of the efficiency zone.

So EWG is a must.

The one "documented" HX-30 build I can find was a 99 motor. He hit 18psi at 3800 RPMs. Which really is not too shabby at all. Throw it on a VVT motor with VICS and it should perform a little better.

Video of a 4th gear pull from 3k rpm:


The hx-30 compressor wheel should flow ~35lbs/min. Which is almost exactly a 2860. But the 2860 I've seen has a .64 A/R.

So smaller turbine housing, with similar compressor flow.

And its a T3 flange. So if I hate it I have other options.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

I believe there is also a 9cm^2 housing which would be a nice sweet spot.

6 cm2 = 0.41 A/R
7 cm2 = 0.49 A/R
8 cm2 = 0.57 A/R
9 cm2 = 0.65 A/R
10 cm2 = 0.73 A/R
11 cm2 = 0.81 A/R
12 cm2 = 0.89 A/R
14 cm2 = 0.97 A/R
15 cm2 = 1.05 A/R
16 cm2 = 1.13 A/R
17 cm2 = 1.29 A/R
19 cm2 = 1.37 A/R

Rallas

iTrader: (9)

The mini rotors are 22mm thick, the same as the corrado rotors that everyone used to run with the dynalite calipers. Yes, the calipers are sized for 20mm rotors, but there is enough room to fit a 22mm rotor. Due to the additional rotor width there is less room for error and the rotor has to be smack dab in the middle to avoid issues. I looked everywhere for a 100mmx4 lugged rotor that was big enough and 20mm thick, but had no luck, unless you go for the willwood 2 piece.


Did you ever measure your rotor thickness? I was wondering if it might be a little on the tick side.


No one else that uses the dynalite caliper on the 11" mini rotors have reported issues.


Were you ever able to get a picture of the area that was rubbing?


I am 90% confident that the spacer washers you added will take care of your issue.


Thanks for doing all the R&D work for us !

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

I'll try and get good ones when i swap pads.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

2nd v-band came in for the exhaust.

Hung the hammock up in the garage too.



I'm debating running stock wiring to the pump. 10 gauge to right before the bulkhead connector. That short of a wiring run should not cause any issues right?

One other solution I have found is the bolt through bulkhead terminals with gasoline safe sealant. Or a stat-o-seal.

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

I've done it both ways. I posted data here a while back, but on my 99 I had over 1 volt of voltage drop to the connector from the stock wiring. I rewired it with 10 gauge up to the connector. Later ran new wires through the bulkhead since there were still a few inches of stock small wiring. You get 95% of the gain just running wires to the stock connector though. Basic resistance problem, you reduce the length of the small wire which is highly resistive from 20' to 6 inches.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

How did you run wires through the bulkhead?