Aidan's loose oily bunghole actually runs a track lap
12-28-2015, 09:47 PM
#5781
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HOLY ****
thats all i can say for now. I'll right more soon. But the spool is 500ish rpms sooner. And the shifts are unbelievable.
thats all i can say for now. I'll right more soon. But the spool is 500ish rpms sooner. And the shifts are unbelievable.
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12-28-2015, 11:26 PM
#5782
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Looks like you got it covered, but just for posterity:
NB ABS and fusebox brackets are physically separate. NB2 bracket looks like this (pic from donor):
There's a windshield washer bottle bracket that you have to take out to put the ABS bracket in. Fuse box only has to come out so that you can add/tap fuses in it.
--Ian
NB ABS and fusebox brackets are physically separate. NB2 bracket looks like this (pic from donor):
There's a windshield washer bottle bracket that you have to take out to put the ABS bracket in. Fuse box only has to come out so that you can add/tap fuses in it.
--Ian
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12-29-2015, 02:33 PM
#5790
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Clutch pedal adjustment: How low is too low. Emilio says on the website to lower the engagement point to get less pedal travel, can I just lower it until it doesn't disengage and then back off a bit?Or is there a better way to do it.
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12-29-2015, 04:29 PM
#5791
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I'd go a decent amount past not engaging, because you don't want it dragging at all. And if you have a tiny leak or your bleed is old it'll start to drag.
Sit in your garage and make engine noises while you shift. Figure out where your foot feels comfortable for your fake clutch, and make your real one engage there.
Sit in your garage and make engine noises while you shift. Figure out where your foot feels comfortable for your fake clutch, and make your real one engage there.
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12-29-2015, 04:41 PM
#5793
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Thanks curly. I had a good 1/3rd pedal travel at the end that was unused, so I took up a lot of that.
Found this document: http://competitionclutch.com/tech/PUB-TWIN-1.pdf
It says to try and get it into first, and right when it slips in, do another 1/4" from there. I just adjusted it like that, going to take it out and see how I like it. Then took up some of the freeplay, but not all of it, based on the FM instructions.
Slightly worried its too close to the floor, Organic discs might heat up, or something like that. We'll see. Going to carry my 10mm and 12mm with me for a while to adjust it if i have issues.
Found this document: http://competitionclutch.com/tech/PUB-TWIN-1.pdf
It says to try and get it into first, and right when it slips in, do another 1/4" from there. I just adjusted it like that, going to take it out and see how I like it. Then took up some of the freeplay, but not all of it, based on the FM instructions.
Slightly worried its too close to the floor, Organic discs might heat up, or something like that. We'll see. Going to carry my 10mm and 12mm with me for a while to adjust it if i have issues.
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12-29-2015, 07:36 PM
#5794
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Got around to setting up the line lock some. It has spare NPT ports, so I'm going to be grabbing a couple 0-1000psi sensors to measure brake line pressure. I'll install the other one in the rear some other time probably.
Just more circuits to add to the TinyIOx
Just more circuits to add to the TinyIOx
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12-29-2015, 07:54 PM
#5795
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All the wiring plans are finalized. But none of it is tested. After I get all this done I'm going to post up a nice long writeup, because there isn't any good consolidated info on how to take advantage of all of the MS3 I/O
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing
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12-31-2015, 11:54 AM
#5796
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Local deal popped up on an MR short shifter thanks to curly. So that will be going on soon. I'm going to be in shifting nirvana with that and the twin disc. I can't wait.
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