Aidan's loose oily bunghole actually runs a track lap
#7270
SADFab Destructive Testing Engineer
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I'm trying to do some more math here.
Am I wrong in thinking I can get a built long block for less than $2k if I DIY it.
Rods 242
Pistons/Rings 460
Boundary Pump 400
Bore/Hone 200
Head gasket 26
Bearings 160
Hot tank? 100
Block paint 20
Valve cover powdercoat 60
intake manifold powdercoat 60
Oil drain 40
Engine gaskets ??
Thats like $1750 right there. I don't know how much the gaskets will be but it seems like its getting close.
Any objections?
Am I wrong in thinking I can get a built long block for less than $2k if I DIY it.
Rods 242
Pistons/Rings 460
Boundary Pump 400
Bore/Hone 200
Head gasket 26
Bearings 160
Hot tank? 100
Block paint 20
Valve cover powdercoat 60
intake manifold powdercoat 60
Oil drain 40
Engine gaskets ??
Thats like $1750 right there. I don't know how much the gaskets will be but it seems like its getting close.
Any objections?
#7276
SADFab Destructive Testing Engineer
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Join Date: Apr 2014
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Spoke to Boundary.
Stage 2 is about 15% more flow than Stage 0 with VVT.
Stage 0 with VVT: $240
Stage 2: $400
So my question is. Are oil pumps reusable, even after a bearing went toast. Seems like the only way the gears make sense is if I had already bought a new oil pump. Otherwise I'd only be saving like $40. (assuming $140 oil pump)
Stage 2 is about 15% more flow than Stage 0 with VVT.
Stage 0 with VVT: $240
Stage 2: $400
So my question is. Are oil pumps reusable, even after a bearing went toast. Seems like the only way the gears make sense is if I had already bought a new oil pump. Otherwise I'd only be saving like $40. (assuming $140 oil pump)
#7277
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No, IMO. You have flushed so much garbage through the pump that the relief bore is almost certainly scored to hell. I have tried to reuse them once after a piston failure and it did not go well (the motor came back out, pan came off, oil pump was replaced after it refused to build pressure in built motor #2). If it does build pressure in your new motor, it may not someday. Not worth the risk, IMO. Best case is you catch it on startup one morning and you have to redo the entire job. Worst case, you destroy the new motor too.
ARP mains are a required item as well, IMO. I am doing a "rods only" build for Rover's S1 motor right now and I skipped the BE pump for cost reasons but did ARP mains. You can skip the head studs if you want, although if you want to use that 6758 as intended, I wouldn't.
ARP mains are a required item as well, IMO. I am doing a "rods only" build for Rover's S1 motor right now and I skipped the BE pump for cost reasons but did ARP mains. You can skip the head studs if you want, although if you want to use that 6758 as intended, I wouldn't.
#7278
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Thanks for the input Andrew. Looks like stage 2 it is.
Forgot to mention that I do have ARP mains. Bought them from @OneTwo a while ago for some reason.
Picked up a vibrant drain flange from Andrew yesterday. Nice deal.
Grabbed like 4 1/2NPT bungs off eBay. Will be practicing welding them into my spare pan.
Still need to unbox Andrews old precision intercooler at some point. Should be fun to fit.
ARP head studs are so easy to install that I dont need them right away.
Well there goes the "rods" only build idea. Talking to hailey today and she told me to do it right once. And not to half *** it and have to redo it.
Forgot to mention that I do have ARP mains. Bought them from @OneTwo a while ago for some reason.
Picked up a vibrant drain flange from Andrew yesterday. Nice deal.
Grabbed like 4 1/2NPT bungs off eBay. Will be practicing welding them into my spare pan.
Still need to unbox Andrews old precision intercooler at some point. Should be fun to fit.
ARP head studs are so easy to install that I dont need them right away.
Well there goes the "rods" only build idea. Talking to hailey today and she told me to do it right once. And not to half *** it and have to redo it.