Aidan's loose oily bunghole actually runs a track lap
#3421
SADFab Destructive Testing Engineer
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Beaverton, USA
Posts: 18,642
Total Cats: 1,866
<p>Got bored so started designing my own map daddy board.</p><p>2 MPXH6400</p><p>One uses stock ms circuitry, the other has an output pin that can be wired to JS5. Hopefully will plug into the stock Map sensor location</p><p>Using this board as a base:</p><p>http://rusefi.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=765</p><p>With my own napkin schematic</p><p></p>
#3422
Why make a board, can you just stack them? I don't understand.
11.57" 294mm mini brakes do not fit under 15x8 konig flatouts. The pad is supposed to be flush with the rotor diamater, probably for rotor to caliper clearance. If I keep the pad flush, I only have .03" clearance to the wheel barrel.
If I could turn the rotors down to exactly 11.5" I think it would be perfect.
11" mini rotors are more dollars
I need to buy a fucing lathe/mill of my own. I'm thinking of selling my S10 project and all the parts to make that happen.
11.57" 294mm mini brakes do not fit under 15x8 konig flatouts. The pad is supposed to be flush with the rotor diamater, probably for rotor to caliper clearance. If I keep the pad flush, I only have .03" clearance to the wheel barrel.
If I could turn the rotors down to exactly 11.5" I think it would be perfect.
11" mini rotors are more dollars
I need to buy a fucing lathe/mill of my own. I'm thinking of selling my S10 project and all the parts to make that happen.
#3426
Last time I checked for fit I didn't have pads and was guesstimating as to where they'd end. The caliper needs to be up off the rotor more than I guessed. I might be able to fudge it to work with slightly custom brackets, but then I'd worry about quite literally ripping the caliper clean off the car at the wrong time.
Why do you need 4 bar? Is there something I missed?
Why do you need 4 bar? Is there something I missed?
#3428
They are identical in the dimension that matters, or at least I thought that's what we'd decided. Only the very front of the dynalite is hitting, 5mm wheel spacers might make it for me.
Does 4 bar fit the signal in the same 0-5V analog signal? Baller for baller is cool, but why all the trouble to waste resolution?
Does 4 bar fit the signal in the same 0-5V analog signal? Baller for baller is cool, but why all the trouble to waste resolution?
#3432
SADFab Destructive Testing Engineer
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Beaverton, USA
Posts: 18,642
Total Cats: 1,866
<p>Which part of the wheel is hitting that? Looks like the dynapros are wider which could be an issue.</p><p>You should shoot an email to wilwood and ask if the flush pad thing is so you get maximum performance? Or is there an engineering reason.</p>
#3437
Elite Member
iTrader: (37)
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Very NorCal
Posts: 10,441
Total Cats: 1,899
What's the point of that stacked MAP sensor thing? I feel like I missed something.
I've been thinking about MAP sensors a lot recently. I feel like I'm going to hit the 21psi limit of the MPX4250AP pretty quickly.
I've been thinking about MAP sensors a lot recently. I feel like I'm going to hit the 21psi limit of the MPX4250AP pretty quickly.
#3439
Real time baro correction, like if you drive up a mountain.
Something I noticed, when my megasquirt would loose sync it would "use default map" for baro correction and more often than not it would divert to the low end of the correction limits, because the engine was still making vacuum. I turned that **** off. I live in Kansas, what is hill?
I still say using 4 bar when you only need 3 wastes 1/4 of the MAP resolution you have available. They make 0-5V signal, if you use 4 bar and max 20PSI you waste half the voltage range, unless I'm mistaken.
And yes, 5mm of spacer might make the whole deal work. The angled face of the dynalite is interfering with this angled face of the flatout. Since it's all angled, I need more than 1/8" of straight out spacer, can't think of better wording for that...
Something I noticed, when my megasquirt would loose sync it would "use default map" for baro correction and more often than not it would divert to the low end of the correction limits, because the engine was still making vacuum. I turned that **** off. I live in Kansas, what is hill?
I still say using 4 bar when you only need 3 wastes 1/4 of the MAP resolution you have available. They make 0-5V signal, if you use 4 bar and max 20PSI you waste half the voltage range, unless I'm mistaken.
And yes, 5mm of spacer might make the whole deal work. The angled face of the dynalite is interfering with this angled face of the flatout. Since it's all angled, I need more than 1/8" of straight out spacer, can't think of better wording for that...