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Old 08-27-2015, 05:42 PM   #3281
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I would not run plastic. Brakes get pretty hot on track.

If you make your own the cheapest way to get the right size centering is to use 2-3/4" od 1/2" wall aluminum tubing. It is $25 per foot, but you can get a bunch of rings out of it.
Speedy Metals 2-3/4" OD x 1.750" ID x .500" Wall 6061 Aluminum Round Tube
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Old 08-27-2015, 05:43 PM   #3282
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Im going to see if my metal supply has any remnants close to that size. If not, ill probably just order them too.
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Old 08-27-2015, 05:44 PM   #3283
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<p>sean, how soon can you bust out some rings? dont you have a really cheap metal supplier near you?</p>
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Old 08-27-2015, 05:45 PM   #3284
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The rings don't do much more than hold the rotors steady till you get things bolted down.

These plastic rings are good to 140c/280f, I can't see the hub getting that hot for that long, right?
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Old 08-27-2015, 06:51 PM   #3285
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<p>sean, how soon can you bust out some rings? dont you have a really cheap metal supplier near you?</p>
Normally tomorrow or the next day. But right now I have an engine to button up and install, and some side work. Maybe early next week....?

Yes, cheap metal place, will run by tomorrow on lunch break.


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The rings don't do much more than hold the rotors steady till you get things bolted down.

These plastic rings are good to 140c/280f, I can't see the hub getting that hot for that long, right?

I thought they would be fine, but was also under the assumption they were good to more than 280F. If they do melt, its not going to cause a catastrophic failure or anything, just dont take your wheels off until you get replacements. If its a daily and you get a flat after you melted them at a track day, youre fucked. As you said, they only locate the rotor while the wheel is being installed.
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Old 08-27-2015, 06:53 PM   #3286
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<p>if you don't have AAA you're doin it wrong.</p><p>going to cancel my order of the plastic ones until you say whether or not they have some metal in stock</p>
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Old 08-27-2015, 06:54 PM   #3287
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<p>if you don't have AAA you're doin it wrong.</p><p>going to cancel my order of the plastic ones until you say whether or not they have some metal in stock</p>
PLUS member bitches! I can get 400 miles if I need to.
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Old 08-27-2015, 06:57 PM   #3288
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Make me 4 please, hehe

If plastic wheel spacers don't melt, why would a rotor spacer melt? They're in pretty close proximity.
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Old 08-27-2015, 06:58 PM   #3289
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If plastic wheel spacers don't melt.
The existence of plastic wheel spacers is news to me. WTF...... no

Edit- if I can find remnant stock or can get it cheap, ill make enough for the 3 of us for sure.
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Old 08-27-2015, 07:02 PM   #3290
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Not spacers, er, hubcentric rings.
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Old 08-27-2015, 07:08 PM   #3291
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Default Community build thread...Aidan rambles on and on...

They exist though, I had to Google it
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/aaf-...FZKGaQodOTwIog

I'm not saying the ring will melt, and if they did I don't think it would be because they were a 1/4" further in locating a rotor instead of a wheel. But track duty.... why do some people need inconel?
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Old 08-27-2015, 07:20 PM   #3292
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<p>Plus member? How do you get 400?</p><p>I'm a premium member.</p><p>&nbsp;</p>
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Old 08-27-2015, 08:08 PM   #3293
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Make me 4 please, hehe

If plastic wheel spacers don't melt, why would a rotor spacer melt? They're in pretty close proximity.
Plastic hub centric adapters do melt. I've melted a set at the track.

Plastic adapters exist for hard parking.

--Ian
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Old 08-27-2015, 08:25 PM   #3294
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Seriously guys! Just do a search on caliper temps and you will see how hot calipers can get I think the Singular guys posted some data where they measured over 500 deg on non ducted calipers. The rotor surface must get even hotter, granted the hubs aren't that hot, but they are attached to pieces of steel that can get so hot that they glow red. These rotors get hot enough in the hub areas that we have to run high temp grease or experience accelerated hub failures. Why would you think a plastic ring would survive on the track. I bet I could melt a plastic ring with just some mountain driving. Its not like you are saving $100 bucks going with plastic rings.

Good luck finding material to make rings! Its hard to find the 2-3/6" tubing! It can also be done with 2-3/4 or 3" solid round stock, but that is a lot of waste.
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Old 08-27-2015, 09:18 PM   #3295
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<p>Plus member? How do you get 400?</p><p>I'm a premium member.</p><p>&nbsp;</p>
you get 4 100 mile tows, they let you combine them into one 400 mile tow if you are that fucked, at least they have in the past.
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Old 08-27-2015, 09:25 PM   #3296
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Seriously guys! Just do a search
That's not EVER how this thread has worked
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Old 08-27-2015, 09:31 PM   #3297
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AAA premium is 1 200 mile tow and 4 100 mile. Pretty sure you can't combine.
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Old 08-27-2015, 10:29 PM   #3298
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That's not EVER how this thread has worked
Lol! I thought I was cheap!

I have to admit that it would be funny to see a pic of a hub with a plastic mess dripping out of it!
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Old 08-27-2015, 10:31 PM   #3299
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I will deliver.
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Old 08-27-2015, 10:44 PM   #3300
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If they do melt, they've really nowhere to go. If you don't take it apart hot they'll probably just resolidify all up in there.

I don't think I'm gonna get material for brackets till next week, Metal by the Foot, Inc. is where I usually go for small quantities since I can drive there. Thinking about it now, I might make one piece stepped spacers for my wheels and the rotors both, if plastic melts.

I think my konigs use 73mm bore? Fricken 3" 1/2 wall is $40 for a foot. Still won't easily fit in my lathe. Doesn't have to be perfect, I'll just mill the bitches in softjaws.
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