Aidan's loose oily bunghole actually runs a track lap
#4382
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Need to pull that caliper, I'm not totally convinced the rotor is rubbing inside. There was a ton of clearance and I cannot imagine a rotor or caliper or caliper mounting bracket deflecting that much and the brakes still staying together. I tend to think if it was rubbing that would have made absolutely terrible noises.
I need a roll bar mount for my GoPro, because that's way better than my bumper location. I also need to spend some time dicking around with RaceRender
I need a roll bar mount for my GoPro, because that's way better than my bumper location. I also need to spend some time dicking around with RaceRender
#4383
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I will pull it, but I looked closer and it looks like rubbing 100%. It is even on the inside of the caliper.
Don't think you have ridden in my car. But you can't hear anything like brake noise.
Don't think you have ridden in my car. But you can't hear anything like brake noise.
#4385
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TPS not needed anymore. Turns out the one G sent me never actually got sent.
I mean i could use the subframes, don't really feel like shipping those though.
VICS manifold would be nice.
I mean i could use the subframes, don't really feel like shipping those though.
VICS manifold would be nice.
#4391
Real drag machine would be my roomates S-10. But making a miata go fast would be more fun. And *gasp* different. I know I sound like one of those newbs that wants to be different. But the difference is I know that if/when I fail it will be all my fault
Reasonable plan would be this.
Build 1.8
Install.
Bolt up current turbo and downpipe.
Make manifold jig of turbo placement so I can reuse downpipe.
Make manifold
Profit.
My current trubo has a 19t compressor upgrade path if I want to go that way.
@18psi what kind of power difference is that.
Reasonable plan would be this.
Build 1.8
Install.
Bolt up current turbo and downpipe.
Make manifold jig of turbo placement so I can reuse downpipe.
Make manifold
Profit.
My current trubo has a 19t compressor upgrade path if I want to go that way.
@18psi what kind of power difference is that.
#4393
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Wow man, pretty serious pucker moment coming out of the corkscrew that one time. It's amazing how quickly your tires lose traction. REALLY need to get on new tires man. I think you'll be really fast if you just go buy brand new tires.
Lines looked super smooth. I could learn a lot from you in 4, that was slick, and quite a lot faster than me. Also later braking into 1. EDIT yes I mean turn 2.
Need tighter lines through 6 and 9 and later apex on 10 though.
Lines looked super smooth. I could learn a lot from you in 4, that was slick, and quite a lot faster than me. Also later braking into 1. EDIT yes I mean turn 2.
Need tighter lines through 6 and 9 and later apex on 10 though.
#4396
Ok I need those also then.
Hardlines are a plus. But will be hard to ship. I can always make those for cheap I bet.
Is the 5mm track width of the NB in the hub or in the upright?
I already have 3 ABS uprights. I can find a 4th.
So if you are short on time or anything I need:
- ABS hydraulic unit
- mounting bracket for hydraulic unit
- pigtail of wiring harness connector for hydraulic unit
- all four sensors (find the connectors *inside* the car, cut them on the car side of the sensor so you have a pigtail, not the sensor side)
- rear axles (with ABS rings)
- booster
- master cylinder
- as many of the hard lines as you can get out
- prop valve
Why do I need the booster and master?
Hardlines are a plus. But will be hard to ship. I can always make those for cheap I bet.
Is the 5mm track width of the NB in the hub or in the upright?
I already have 3 ABS uprights. I can find a 4th.
So if you are short on time or anything I need:
- ABS hydraulic unit
- mounting bracket for hydraulic unit
- pigtail of wiring harness connector for hydraulic unit
- all four sensors (find the connectors *inside* the car, cut them on the car side of the sensor so you have a pigtail, not the sensor side)
- rear axles (with ABS rings)
- booster
- master cylinder
- as many of the hard lines as you can get out
- prop valve
Why do I need the booster and master?
#4398
There isn't much room to change the offset. With new pads I believe I only had 0.015-0.020"clearance on either side of the rotor. It took me two tries before I got the offset just right on my first brackets. The offset on the drawings should result in the 22mm mini rotor sitting smack dab in the middle of the caliper.
My work must be blocking pictures. Do you have a picture that shows where it is rubbing?
How did the brakes hold up as far as fading and fee?
My work must be blocking pictures. Do you have a picture that shows where it is rubbing?
How did the brakes hold up as far as fading and fee?
From the pictures it looks like the outside leading edge of the caliper is grinding a bit, the rotor normally rotates away from where the contact is unless you're going backwards. I wonder if it's not used pad material trying to find an exit?
Very strange. I never thought to measure the rotor to caliper clearance. The offset was milled in one shot though, with the same tool, so it should be damn near perfect.
I have to bend a new front left hardline for my car, taking that line on and off so many times totally fucked the flare nut. 20" not long enough, 30" too long.
God damn it.
#4399
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I will take better pictures soon. Basically it looked like the caliper wasn't perfectly centered on the rotor, and it also needs to be up off the rotor just a tad bit more.
G suggested pad material as well. But it definitely wasn't
Wait for pictures. Then you will know what I know.
G suggested pad material as well. But it definitely wasn't
Wait for pictures. Then you will know what I know.