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Old 10-06-2015, 03:55 PM   #4381
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Here is my fast lap, and fails.

Critique away!

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Old 10-06-2015, 03:56 PM   #4382
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Need to pull that caliper, I'm not totally convinced the rotor is rubbing inside. There was a ton of clearance and I cannot imagine a rotor or caliper or caliper mounting bracket deflecting that much and the brakes still staying together. I tend to think if it was rubbing that would have made absolutely terrible noises.

I need a roll bar mount for my GoPro, because that's way better than my bumper location. I also need to spend some time dicking around with RaceRender
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Old 10-06-2015, 03:57 PM   #4383
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I will pull it, but I looked closer and it looks like rubbing 100%. It is even on the inside of the caliper.

Don't think you have ridden in my car. But you can't hear anything like brake noise.
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Old 10-06-2015, 04:04 PM   #4384
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I didn't know you needed a TPS.
Any other 1.8 stuff you need?
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Old 10-06-2015, 04:05 PM   #4385
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TPS not needed anymore. Turns out the one G sent me never actually got sent.

I mean i could use the subframes, don't really feel like shipping those though.

VICS manifold would be nice.
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Old 10-06-2015, 04:06 PM   #4386
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Maybe throw in a cheap comanche if you can find one.
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Old 10-06-2015, 04:15 PM   #4387
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This is my favorite set of pictures of my car. It shows the full suspension travel. And even a little bit of drift in the middle of the corkscrew.














Attached Thumbnails
Aidan's SCCA Stock Class Autocross Build (Road Course is Too Scary)-eucnwtq.jpg   Aidan's SCCA Stock Class Autocross Build (Road Course is Too Scary)-lke06q4.jpg   Aidan's SCCA Stock Class Autocross Build (Road Course is Too Scary)-4uj2trw.jpg   Aidan's SCCA Stock Class Autocross Build (Road Course is Too Scary)-fjoj9md.jpg   Aidan's SCCA Stock Class Autocross Build (Road Course is Too Scary)-ipepkpb.jpg  

Aidan's SCCA Stock Class Autocross Build (Road Course is Too Scary)-tiysn1d.jpg   Aidan's SCCA Stock Class Autocross Build (Road Course is Too Scary)-aivq6vl.jpg   Aidan's SCCA Stock Class Autocross Build (Road Course is Too Scary)-jcnuqe1.jpg   Aidan's SCCA Stock Class Autocross Build (Road Course is Too Scary)-cbyokfk.jpg   Aidan's SCCA Stock Class Autocross Build (Road Course is Too Scary)-gvqdegn.jpg  

Aidan's SCCA Stock Class Autocross Build (Road Course is Too Scary)-qydme6x.jpg   Aidan's SCCA Stock Class Autocross Build (Road Course is Too Scary)-lwmmue1.jpg   Aidan's SCCA Stock Class Autocross Build (Road Course is Too Scary)-ah2llv3.jpg   Aidan's SCCA Stock Class Autocross Build (Road Course is Too Scary)-dnuxlcs.jpg  
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Old 10-06-2015, 04:15 PM   #4388
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oops
Attached Thumbnails
Aidan's SCCA Stock Class Autocross Build (Road Course is Too Scary)-eucnwtq.jpg   Aidan's SCCA Stock Class Autocross Build (Road Course is Too Scary)-lke06q4.jpg   Aidan's SCCA Stock Class Autocross Build (Road Course is Too Scary)-4uj2trw.jpg   Aidan's SCCA Stock Class Autocross Build (Road Course is Too Scary)-fjoj9md.jpg   Aidan's SCCA Stock Class Autocross Build (Road Course is Too Scary)-ipepkpb.jpg  

Aidan's SCCA Stock Class Autocross Build (Road Course is Too Scary)-tiysn1d.jpg   Aidan's SCCA Stock Class Autocross Build (Road Course is Too Scary)-aivq6vl.jpg   Aidan's SCCA Stock Class Autocross Build (Road Course is Too Scary)-jcnuqe1.jpg   Aidan's SCCA Stock Class Autocross Build (Road Course is Too Scary)-cbyokfk.jpg   Aidan's SCCA Stock Class Autocross Build (Road Course is Too Scary)-gvqdegn.jpg  

Aidan's SCCA Stock Class Autocross Build (Road Course is Too Scary)-qydme6x.jpg   Aidan's SCCA Stock Class Autocross Build (Road Course is Too Scary)-lwmmue1.jpg   Aidan's SCCA Stock Class Autocross Build (Road Course is Too Scary)-ah2llv3.jpg   Aidan's SCCA Stock Class Autocross Build (Road Course is Too Scary)-dnuxlcs.jpg  
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Old 10-06-2015, 04:20 PM   #4389
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VICS is possible.
It's still there, but some dumbass took it apart.
Took the valve cover too, but left the head.
Cams are Rusty now.
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Old 10-06-2015, 04:21 PM   #4390
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VICS is possible.
It's still there, but some dumbass took it apart.
Took the valve cover too, but left the head.
Cams are Rusty now.
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Old 10-06-2015, 04:21 PM   #4391
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aidandj View Post
Real drag machine would be my roomates S-10. But making a miata go fast would be more fun. And *gasp* different. I know I sound like one of those newbs that wants to be different. But the difference is I know that if/when I fail it will be all my fault

Reasonable plan would be this.

Build 1.8
Install.
Bolt up current turbo and downpipe.
Make manifold jig of turbo placement so I can reuse downpipe.
Make manifold
Profit.
My current trubo has a 19t compressor upgrade path if I want to go that way.
18psi what kind of power difference is that.
from like 240 to like 280ish
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Old 10-06-2015, 04:22 PM   #4392
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And then on e85?

If vics is possible let me know how much they would charge.
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Old 10-06-2015, 04:25 PM   #4393
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Wow man, pretty serious pucker moment coming out of the corkscrew that one time. It's amazing how quickly your tires lose traction. REALLY need to get on new tires man. I think you'll be really fast if you just go buy brand new tires.

Lines looked super smooth. I could learn a lot from you in 4, that was slick, and quite a lot faster than me. Also later braking into 1. EDIT yes I mean turn 2.

Need tighter lines through 6 and 9 and later apex on 10 though.
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Old 10-06-2015, 04:26 PM   #4394
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I think you mean 2 No brakes in 1. That was some pucker factor as I got faster in the day.
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Old 10-06-2015, 04:38 PM   #4395
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I also got to leave my mark at the bottom of the corkscrew



Before:



After:

Attached Thumbnails
Aidan's SCCA Stock Class Autocross Build (Road Course is Too Scary)-uj9y4d1.jpg   Aidan's SCCA Stock Class Autocross Build (Road Course is Too Scary)-ew0hqf9.png   Aidan's SCCA Stock Class Autocross Build (Road Course is Too Scary)-5l715d6.png  
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Old 10-06-2015, 08:08 PM   #4396
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aidandj View Post
Ok I need those also then.

Hardlines are a plus. But will be hard to ship. I can always make those for cheap I bet.

Is the 5mm track width of the NB in the hub or in the upright?

I already have 3 ABS uprights. I can find a 4th.

So if you are short on time or anything I need:

- ABS hydraulic unit
- mounting bracket for hydraulic unit
- pigtail of wiring harness connector for hydraulic unit
- all four sensors (find the connectors *inside* the car, cut them on the car side of the sensor so you have a pigtail, not the sensor side)
- rear axles (with ABS rings)
- booster
- master cylinder
- as many of the hard lines as you can get out
- prop valve


Why do I need the booster and master?
make sure you get all the engine bay hardlines and the line from the front to the back from the abs car. You can just order them from mazda comp of you dont get them, they're cheap. You dont "need" the master, but you would have to plug one of the extra outputs on the master cylinder. You only need the booster if the one you have doesnt match the master you have. Check that thread on miata.net on what masters and boosters work together. You also dont need to use the abs prop valve, either put in two unions or put in an aftermarket one. I run two unions with 1.6 front and 1.8 rear brakes with the same pads on both ends, but thats auto-x and might be too much rear bias for a track car, its just about right for auto-x. You also will need a some fuses and stuff. I think its 60A and 15A constant power and 10A to switched power. Do not put that switched line on constant power, it draws a ton of amps if you do. Also, you can wire in the warning lamp and other BS but thats not really needed. The minimal wiring you need are the two grounds, the 3 powers, all the wheel speed sensors, and the brake switch. You should make it convent to ground the dataconnector wire that lets you bleed the abs pump without spinning the wheels though.
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Old 10-06-2015, 08:10 PM   #4397
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Thanks leafy. It sounds like Monk may have gotten it all for me. I'll tackle the wiring at some other point.
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Old 10-06-2015, 08:16 PM   #4398
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rallas View Post
There isn't much room to change the offset. With new pads I believe I only had 0.015-0.020"clearance on either side of the rotor. It took me two tries before I got the offset just right on my first brackets. The offset on the drawings should result in the 22mm mini rotor sitting smack dab in the middle of the caliper.


My work must be blocking pictures. Do you have a picture that shows where it is rubbing?


How did the brakes hold up as far as fading and fee?
I think the pictures were just emailed, not in this thread yet.

From the pictures it looks like the outside leading edge of the caliper is grinding a bit, the rotor normally rotates away from where the contact is unless you're going backwards. I wonder if it's not used pad material trying to find an exit?

Very strange. I never thought to measure the rotor to caliper clearance. The offset was milled in one shot though, with the same tool, so it should be damn near perfect.

I have to bend a new front left hardline for my car, taking that line on and off so many times totally fucked the flare nut. 20" not long enough, 30" too long.

God damn it.
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Old 10-06-2015, 08:21 PM   #4399
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I will take better pictures soon. Basically it looked like the caliper wasn't perfectly centered on the rotor, and it also needs to be up off the rotor just a tad bit more.

G suggested pad material as well. But it definitely wasn't

Wait for pictures. Then you will know what I know.
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Old 10-06-2015, 08:39 PM   #4400
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Sometimes I fail at doing what my instructor says.

Also my jokes are bad.


(Hint, thats not a certified instructor in the passenger seat )
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