Aidan's SCCA Stock Class Autocross Build (Road Course is Too Scary) - Page 329 - Miata Turbo Forum -Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 03-15-2016, 05:58 PM   #6561
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IIRC, the "ABS" light is for flashing diagnostic codes, the "BRAKE" light is for indicating that there's a code present. They probably could have gotten away with just one light, but it's Bosch and you know what the Germans are like.

--Ian
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Old 03-15-2016, 05:59 PM   #6562
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Interesting. Because when I have a code in the system, the abs light was on, but the brake light wasn't. I guess I'll wire em both up.
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Old 03-15-2016, 06:17 PM   #6563
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Ed got me started rewatching my MRLS video, and my brown pants incident

Definitely was not pointed the right way here.



Happens at 2:10

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Old 03-15-2016, 06:49 PM   #6564
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2:02 lol.

also was a pretty decent catch, yoou make me realize i give up to soon
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Old 03-15-2016, 06:58 PM   #6565
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Best instructor ever

To be fair, she was right, I implemented her suggestion horribly.

There was a wall on both sides, no giving up.
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Old 03-15-2016, 07:15 PM   #6566
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lol but that's not the video with your 'instructor'

and yes, can't give up there
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Old 03-15-2016, 07:30 PM   #6567
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Oh yeah, that was squaring up the tires.
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Old 03-16-2016, 01:20 AM   #6568
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So much tread depth. Such wow, much deep.


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Old 03-16-2016, 02:05 AM   #6569
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Suggestions for ride height? Xida 700/400, RB tubular, NA susp all around, extended lower ball joints, r package tie rods.

Thinking 4.25/4.5?

Maybe 4/4.25?
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Old 03-17-2016, 01:17 PM   #6570
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Miata Race alignment

Sounds like the first one will work well.
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Old 03-17-2016, 01:20 PM   #6571
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I don't think I could get -1.4* camber if I tried with the extended LBJ.

I want a mix of the 2nd and 3rd. Not a full on race alignment, more like a mostly track but drive to work a lot alignment.

Thinking 4.25/4.5 ride height. -3* camber front -2.7* rear.

Any objections?
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Old 03-17-2016, 01:25 PM   #6572
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I run roughly that with the same camber and 0 toe, it's sensitive to input but manageable for DD. Encourages 60mph onramps.
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Old 03-17-2016, 01:28 PM   #6573
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I should add 0 toe all around.

Don't care about sensitive inputs, do care about wear
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Old 03-17-2016, 01:47 PM   #6574
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You want a little toe in in the back. Otherwise 3/2.7 and 0 toe front is good
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Old 03-17-2016, 01:49 PM   #6575
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Why the little amount of rear toe?
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Old 03-17-2016, 01:51 PM   #6576
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Stability.
Run a smidge of toe out up front too, car will be magical
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Old 03-17-2016, 01:52 PM   #6577
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Will toe out up front increase tire wear significant?
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Old 03-17-2016, 03:25 PM   #6578
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It can depending on the tire material, I've never had inner edges go bald though. The grip > unnoticed tire wear IMO. The rear toe is to keep the angle of thrust pointed like a rocket gimbal. I suggest a 1/8" toe-in in the rear. This has the 'power' from the tires making a / \ pattern. At least for me, it helps control throttle oversteer by spreading the angle of thrust wider, I spin out less on hard corners when on the throttle.

Don't go too low though, the bumpsteer sucks (as well as burying your lip and bottoming out on speed bumps :-(). The 93le tie rod ends and nb subframe I installed helps a lot though.
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Old 03-17-2016, 06:04 PM   #6579
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Martin what are Laz's alignment specs?

0 toe in the front will in practice result in just a smidge of toe out when the car is rolling iirc.

I agree on the 1/8 toe in for the rear, especially for non-stock-hp miatas.
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Old 03-17-2016, 06:10 PM   #6580
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I have 93le tie rod ends. No nb subframe. I think I was at 4.5-4.75 on bilsteins, so .25" lower won't hurt much. Bumpsteer wasn't bad with the stock tie rod ends.
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