codrus

IIRC, the "ABS" light is for flashing diagnostic codes, the "BRAKE" light is for indicating that there's a code present. They probably could have gotten away with just one light, but it's Bosch and you know what the Germans are like.

--Ian

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Interesting. Because when I have a code in the system, the abs light was on, but the brake light wasn't. I guess I'll wire em both up.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Ed got me started rewatching my MRLS video, and my brown pants incident

Definitely was not pointed the right way here.



Happens at 2:10

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

2:02 lol.

also was a pretty decent catch, yoou make me realize i give up to soon

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Best instructor ever

To be fair, she was right, I implemented her suggestion horribly.

There was a wall on both sides, no giving up.

turbofan

iTrader: (1)

lol but that's not the video with your 'instructor'

and yes, can't give up there

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Oh yeah, that was squaring up the tires.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

So much tread depth. Such wow, much deep.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Suggestions for ride height? Xida 700/400, RB tubular, NA susp all around, extended lower ball joints, r package tie rods.

Thinking 4.25/4.5?

Maybe 4/4.25?

Itty

Miata Race alignment

Sounds like the first one will work well.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

I don't think I could get -1.4* camber if I tried with the extended LBJ.

I want a mix of the 2nd and 3rd. Not a full on race alignment, more like a mostly track but drive to work a lot alignment.

Thinking 4.25/4.5 ride height. -3* camber front -2.7* rear.

Any objections?

Der_Idiot

iTrader: (2)

I run roughly that with the same camber and 0 toe, it's sensitive to input but manageable for DD. Encourages 60mph onramps.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

I should add 0 toe all around.

Don't care about sensitive inputs, do care about wear

curly

iTrader: (25)

You want a little toe in in the back. Otherwise 3/2.7 and 0 toe front is good

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Why the little amount of rear toe?

greddygalant

iTrader: (3)

Stability.
Run a smidge of toe out up front too, car will be magical

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Will toe out up front increase tire wear significant?

Der_Idiot

iTrader: (2)

It can depending on the tire material, I've never had inner edges go bald though. The grip > unnoticed tire wear IMO. The rear toe is to keep the angle of thrust pointed like a rocket gimbal. I suggest a 1/8" toe-in in the rear. This has the 'power' from the tires making a / \ pattern. At least for me, it helps control throttle oversteer by spreading the angle of thrust wider, I spin out less on hard corners when on the throttle.

Don't go too low though, the bumpsteer sucks (as well as burying your lip and bottoming out on speed bumps :-(). The 93le tie rod ends and nb subframe I installed helps a lot though.

Mobius

iTrader: (2)

Martin what are Laz's alignment specs?

0 toe in the front will in practice result in just a smidge of toe out when the car is rolling iirc.

I agree on the 1/8 toe in for the rear, especially for non-stock-hp miatas.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

I have 93le tie rod ends. No nb subframe. I think I was at 4.5-4.75 on bilsteins, so .25" lower won't hurt much. Bumpsteer wasn't bad with the stock tie rod ends.