Aidan's SCCA Stock Class Autocross Build (Road Course is Too Scary) - Page 337 - Miata Turbo Forum -Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 04-07-2016, 02:36 PM   #6721
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Oh, also started profiling the trunk lid to draw up a spoiler. String stapled to the walls level across the trunk lid. Will allow me to take measurements all the way across.





Current plan is to design it something like this



With 2-4 triangles for support, and rubber stripping to allow for adjustability even on the curve.
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Old 04-07-2016, 03:31 PM   #6722
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Anyone have suggestions for how to raise the brake pedal? I adjusted it all the way up and it still drops just below the gas pedal when braking, just enough to make heel toe a little hard.

Bend it up? Add some sort of pedal on top?
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Old 04-07-2016, 03:45 PM   #6723
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Quote:
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Anyone have suggestions for how to raise the brake pedal? I adjusted it all the way up and it still drops just below the gas pedal when braking, just enough to make heel toe a little hard.

Bend it up? Add some sort of pedal on top?
The stock pedal should be strong enough that you bending it up is going to be very difficult.

My first thought is that there is air in the system.

My second thought would be to put a spacer on the pedal at first to figure out "how much" the pedal needs to come out to be where you want, then cut/weld a new pedal to put it in that position without spacers.
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Old 04-07-2016, 03:48 PM   #6724
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Pedal feel is good. similar to other pedals. I've bled A LOT of fluid (stupid idea to do a fresh system bleed with ATE, using cheap fluid next time).

I have the 929 1" master so travel should be ok. I think it has to do with the gas pedal (FM pedal).

Also wouldn't be too hard to just bolt a spacer to it similar to the FM pedal extension.
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Old 04-07-2016, 04:30 PM   #6725
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I guess you've seen Blackbird Fabworks (Moti)'s spoiler? I imagine you can do it cheaper, but it's adjustable and people seem to like it. Check to see how flat your string is, it should have an arc to it, hung like that. It takes one to know one and all that.

I'm glad I cleaned up the edges on the cam wheel - you took a decent pic.

Anyway, the cam wheel's purpose is 3-fold:
1) People who push these cars typically have a failure of the cam sensor (due to heat - though if it's engine or electrical is unknown) - this allows switching to a more modern sensor
2) This gives ~2x (possible 4x, depending on the current ECU code in use) on VVT phasing updates, and should keep the cam control tighter
3) Using "poll level", you get rid of all the weird work around for the miata in the MS codebase. This allows the engine to know where it is in half the time, running full sequential faster/better, and starting faster. When combined with a high tooth count crank trigger it should improve overall timing accuracy significantly.

At least it works on my car. :-)
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Old 04-07-2016, 04:55 PM   #6726
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Not trying to copy another design. But create a new one. I like the simplicity of this. Its one piece, adjustable, and should be cheap.

Also I couldn't find poll level. Waiting for your full instructions.
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Old 04-09-2016, 06:36 PM   #6727
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Adjust the cable on the throttle so the pedal rests lower, or bend it.
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Old 04-09-2016, 06:56 PM   #6728
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Won't that change the ability to go full throttle?
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Old 04-09-2016, 08:24 PM   #6729
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Won't that change the ability to go full throttle?
Sometimes. You have to check each time you make an adjustment.
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Old 04-11-2016, 07:42 PM   #6730
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sixshooter View Post
Adjust the cable on the throttle so the pedal rests lower, or bend it.
Adjusting the cable doesnt do anything, you can adjust the stop under the dash though and then adjust the cable to takeup the slack.
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Old 04-11-2016, 09:37 PM   #6731
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Adjusting the cable doesnt do anything, you can adjust the stop under the dash though and then adjust the cable to takeup the slack.
Cool. Will tinker more
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Old 04-14-2016, 11:57 AM   #6732
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Who said they had the spare electronic ignition laying around?
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Old 04-14-2016, 11:14 PM   #6733
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Props to 949Racing for probably the fastest customer service email I've ever received. (<1 min reply) For some reason I had it in my head that the studs in the 949 Billet tophats were press in. But it turns out they are just bolts.

Got some longer bolts and put my ghetto master cylinder brace on.


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Old 04-14-2016, 11:15 PM   #6734
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I like how straight your bolt is pressing onto the cast aluminum master with that nice sharp edge.
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Old 04-14-2016, 11:30 PM   #6735
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Its perfect. It will wear away and then meet up flat.

Bolt is just a test. I will be replacing it with one of those leveling mount feet thingies.

This thingy

http://www.mcmaster.com/#6301K72
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Old 04-14-2016, 11:51 PM   #6736
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Yeah I used something like that from the hardware store with a nice plastic pad on the bottom.
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Old 04-14-2016, 11:53 PM   #6737
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Skipped the plastic. Worried about that melting. Not sure if that will be an issue.
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Old 04-16-2016, 03:12 PM   #6738
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Finally got around to switching to new deadtimes. Pulled about 5% fuel from the whole table, and that put my boost AFR right around 11.5-2, just where I like it. Then autotune pulled assloads of fuel from non-boost areas.

Log review plz. This is my track boost level. Max boost around 133kpa (~5psi).

AFR's are around 13. I feel like this is too lean for boost. Going to try and add some more fuel to get them closer to 12.
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Old 04-17-2016, 03:38 AM   #6739
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Nobody? My gauge reads over a point richer than TS. So I got the gauge belo 12 for everywhere in boost. But TS is still reading above 12. Need to get my tinyiox in and get digital AFR.
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Old 04-17-2016, 03:48 AM   #6740
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What is your question? I don't get it.
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