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Aidan's loose oily bunghole actually runs a track lap

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Old 08-08-2016, 11:55 PM
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Originally Posted by thumpetto007
oh, ok, it looked like you had outside tire wear, sorry.
I haz both

Originally Posted by Leafy
I think I figured out the seal. The shift rod only rotates. So I'll just drill a hole in the freeze plug for it to go through rather than trying to find something else to go into that hole. And it only has to seal out splashing so a felt seal will be fine. And by felt seal I mean literally a piece of felt glued around the hole with hondabond.
I like my shaft seal + bushing idea better

I'll find a picture
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Old 08-09-2016, 12:37 AM
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Camber doesn't cause a lot of fire wear, toe does. As does sliding. My star specs look the same, but after a little over a season of track days. Stop drifting?
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Old 08-09-2016, 12:47 AM
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What is a season? I think the open lapping days at ORP are tearing them up good.

Also, did you not know this is a drift build? Duh.

All in all I really liked the star specs, I just want to try the RS3's. Ed has 2 fewer days than me on his, with a heavier car, and more power. Running faster times.

And you can still see outer tread.
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Old 08-09-2016, 12:59 AM
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@Leafy Another t45 Tbird in progress... - Page 2 - TCCoA Forums

this?

https://www.popscreen.com/prod/MTU1M...LEVER-SHIFTER-
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Old 08-09-2016, 01:02 AM
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Or this?

Tremec T56 6 Speed Offset Lever w/ Shifter Bushing 1386-598-016 F-Body/Cobra

Or this?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-T5-Shif...RXg-4L&vxp=mtr

Or this?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chevy-T5-Shi...3D172270493630
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Old 08-09-2016, 01:18 AM
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Originally Posted by curly
Camber doesn't cause a lot of fire wear, toe does. As does sliding. My star specs look the same, but after a little over a season of track days. Stop drifting?
3+ degrees causes a lot of tire wear.

--Ian
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Old 08-09-2016, 01:33 AM
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Old 08-09-2016, 08:44 AM
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.Normal wear for said camber and this kind of driving If you don't go formula 1 style of tyre preservation
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Old 08-09-2016, 08:54 AM
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Originally Posted by aidandj
Never thought the manifold would crack like this. It's in the middle of the pipe. Any thoughts?


Do you know what kind of tubing the manifold is made from. Looks like maybe ERW, and it looks like it may be cracking along the ERW weld? See how there's a line on the tube that is a slightly lighter shade of grey? I think that's a weld line of the tube?

I would do a grind and weld repair.

Did you build the manifold? Where'd you source the materials?
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Old 08-09-2016, 09:16 AM
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I built it. It's just ace race weldels.
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Old 08-09-2016, 09:37 AM
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Shoot ACE and email and see what they say.
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Old 08-09-2016, 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by aidandj
Ed did a few laps with his rear pad in backwards.

How did you guys miss this...@turbofan did a lap OF THE TRACK with his rear brake pad backing plate against the rotor.
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Old 08-09-2016, 10:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Efini~FC3S
Do you know what kind of tubing the manifold is made from. Looks like maybe ERW, and it looks like it may be cracking along the ERW weld? See how there's a line on the tube that is a slightly lighter shade of grey? I think that's a weld line of the tube?

I would do a grind and weld repair.

Did you build the manifold? Where'd you source the materials?
Ace does not specify if it is ERW. But I agree that there looks to be a weld line. I was thinking about drilling at the end of the crack. Cleaning really well, and just welding it back up. Probably wont even pull the manifold off the car.

Did you mean I would grind all the way through? I'm not even sure if the crack goes all the way through.
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Old 08-09-2016, 11:04 AM
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Old 08-09-2016, 11:04 AM
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434 shipped is a pretty good deal
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Old 08-09-2016, 11:07 AM
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Shipping was $60.

Does tire rack ever have rebates or anything that I'm missing out on?
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Old 08-09-2016, 12:44 PM
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yeah sometimes there are rebates.

You can send in your receipt to a rep if/when they do a sale or rebate deal for those tires after you buy them. Usually they will honor it.

I didn't like rs3 because of the softer sidewall. Decent grip, though. I used a shorter sidewall, wider rim, and it was much better.
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Old 08-09-2016, 12:48 PM
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I looked around. Didn't see anything for the rs3.
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Old 08-09-2016, 01:11 PM
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Heard back from ACE Race. Person I'm talking to says in 12 years hes seen a crack like that 1-2 times in mild steel never in stainless.

I really can break anything.
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Old 08-09-2016, 01:17 PM
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Originally Posted by aidandj
Ace does not specify if it is ERW. But I agree that there looks to be a weld line. I was thinking about drilling at the end of the crack. Cleaning really well, and just welding it back up. Probably wont even pull the manifold off the car.

Did you mean I would grind all the way through? I'm not even sure if the crack goes all the way through.
Drilling at both ends of the crack isn't a bad idea. I meant grind a shallow "v" in the crack to make it easier to weld and to ensure you get good penetration. You might find out how deep the crack is too.

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