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Old 06-25-2015, 07:29 PM   #1781
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I wish I could get brake ducting done by the next few track days but I don't think it will.
Ducting is easy. Call up Savington, order a kit. Take off rotor, remove old dust shield, bolt on prawns. Clamp hose to inlet, zip tie it to the tie rod, and route to the mouth or foglight openings or whatever you have available. Done. Oh, you should probably put the rotor back on too.

--Ian
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Old 06-25-2015, 07:30 PM   #1782
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<p>
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Originally Posted by codrus View Post
Ducting is easy. Call up Savington, order a kit. Take off rotor, remove old dust shield, bolt on prawns. Clamp hose to inlet, zip tie it to the tie rod, and route to the mouth or foglight openings or whatever you have available. Done. Oh, you should probably put the rotor back on too. --Ian
</p><p>Not really my style :/</p>
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Old 06-25-2015, 07:51 PM   #1783
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You have dust shields still? I had to cut the crap out of mine to fit 1.8 rotors. They're kinda dished, so fitting ducting might be hard. Plus they are aluminum if I'm not mistaken, so attaching things would be tedious...
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Old 06-25-2015, 07:52 PM   #1784
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<p>What are 1.8 rotors...</p><p>And rivets for attaching.</p>
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Old 06-25-2015, 07:53 PM   #1785
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Biggar, 1.6's had smaller diameter rotors, so to fit 1.8's you need to cut the lip off the dust shield.

edit: honestly they look pretty easy to replicate, like with cardboard and tin snips...
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Old 06-25-2015, 08:00 PM   #1786
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<p>Twas a joke. I'm waiting to upgrade all the way to 11.75 brakes.</p><p>Also. I feel blessed:</p><p><img src="http://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.miataturbo.net-vbulletin/1146x1171/80-uiqbifj_ac5ee2b222dbb49716c864ac9c366a7fd74f5316.p ng" title="" /><br /><br />&nbsp;</p>
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Old 06-25-2015, 08:13 PM   #1787
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<p>What are 1.8 rotors...</p><p>And rivets for attaching.</p>
How do you rivet a cylinder onto a plane at a right angle?

Anyway, you were talking about throwing money at solving the problem -- pre-made brake duct prawns are lot cheaper than a set of Wilwoods.

--Ian
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Old 06-25-2015, 08:22 PM   #1788
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<p>You take a cylinder, rivet angle aluminum onto it. Then rivet that to the plane.</p><p>The car eventually will get Willwoods and brake ducts. It just isn't in the budget right now, and I was hoping to wait. If I can ghetto rig for a bit I will be happy.</p>
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Old 06-25-2015, 11:04 PM   #1789
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<p>Carnage time </p><p><br /><br /><br /><br /></p><p>Going to be running used cobalts during the week and the track day july 3rd. I'll inspect them after that and see how much they wore. If they wear too much I will get some street pads and track pads.</p>
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Aidan's SCCA Stock Class Autocross Build (Road Course is Too Scary)-uebckgxl.jpg   Aidan's SCCA Stock Class Autocross Build (Road Course is Too Scary)-l7ygl02l.jpg   Aidan's SCCA Stock Class Autocross Build (Road Course is Too Scary)-ukw1pgol.jpg   Aidan's SCCA Stock Class Autocross Build (Road Course is Too Scary)-htypy2zl.jpg   Aidan's SCCA Stock Class Autocross Build (Road Course is Too Scary)-7koxqgyl.jpg  

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Old 06-25-2015, 11:05 PM   #1790
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<p>The &quot;new&quot; pads have a slight taper. Which direction should I point the thick end?</p><p>&nbsp;</p>
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Old 06-26-2015, 12:34 AM   #1791
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<p>Thick end at the trailing edge, so front of the caliper. Cobalts don't need hardware apparently, they just rattle around. More carnage to come.</p>
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Old 06-26-2015, 01:00 AM   #1792
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<p>Right is not as bad as left</p><p></p>
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Old 06-26-2015, 02:08 AM   #1793
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<p>Rears have quite a bit less wear. Time to go test </p>
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Old 06-26-2015, 02:44 AM   #1794
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<p>Mmmmm so much better.<br /><br /><br /><br /></p>
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Old 06-26-2015, 04:18 AM   #1795
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If that were any other car I'd be extremely scared at that moment. I've seen so many of my employees cars where the pad backing plate is being pressed against the rotor.
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Old 06-26-2015, 04:32 AM   #1796
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I'm guilty of that, almost completely ground a backing plate away, there was like 1/16 of an inch left keeping the piston from rotor.

My excuse was it was a real POS truck with a slipping trans, and it was winter with no garage, I'm not lying in the friggen' snow to fix that crap lol

I lived in the middle of nowhere, passed two or three cows on my way to work. I'm not really that much of a badass
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Old 06-26-2015, 11:48 AM   #1797
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Aiden, those are serious track pads, none of this compromising bull ****. They will kill your rotors, the dust is corrosive, and they'll have fairly horrible wear on the street. They're for track days and occasional canyon carving.

Also, they will hold that grip from cold to hot, new to backing plate. That's the beauty of cobalts.
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Old 06-26-2015, 11:52 AM   #1798
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Yes sir! They're staying on for now because it have a track day in a week. After that I will get some cheapos for day to day. Good to know my issue was pads though. I measured these before putting em in and will measure when I pull them out. Then I can gauge wear.
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Old 06-26-2015, 02:38 PM   #1799
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<p>Any reason not to run part store pads everywhere besides the track?</p>
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Old 06-26-2015, 02:45 PM   #1800
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<p>
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Originally Posted by deezums View Post
I'm guilty of that, almost completely ground a backing plate away, there was like 1/16 of an inch left keeping the piston from rotor. My excuse was it was a real POS truck with a slipping trans, and it was winter with no garage, I'm not lying in the friggen' snow to fix that crap lol I lived in the middle of nowhere, passed two or three cows on my way to work. I'm not really that much of a badass
</p><p>When I first got my truck a few years ago the drums (yes 4 wheel drum brakes ftw) were so bad that you had to drive in the far right or left lane on the freeway so you could run into the emergency lane if someone stopped in front of you.</p>
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