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Old 07-01-2015, 12:03 PM   #1941
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Dammit, I hate that I can't keep up with this thread.
+1. Just skipped a bunch of pages. Did see something about hubcentric rings. Personally, I don't bother with those. Data point.
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Old 07-01-2015, 12:04 PM   #1942
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<p>Not even for brake rotors?</p>
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Old 07-01-2015, 12:04 PM   #1943
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2 pages? Do you have it set to 20 posts per page or something?
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Old 07-01-2015, 12:06 PM   #1944
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<p>Yes. Because the first page of my build thread has so many damn pictures that it takes a year to load on my phone. And thats the page that chrome auto completes to. If I could have a seperate mobile and desktop post count I could. Newb post per page I'm at 98 pages </p>
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Old 07-01-2015, 12:07 PM   #1945
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<p>Not even for brake rotors?</p>
On the cooper rotors YOU WILL NEED TO MAKE RINGS to get them to center correctly. The holes for the lugs are a bit big and thus a bit loose, and the cooper hub center is much larger than the Miata hub center. It will not center correctly without one. Your car will come apart and you will die.

This is from someone who is running 11" cooper rotors atm.
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Old 07-01-2015, 12:07 PM   #1946
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<p>Not even for brake rotors?</p>
Oh. See, I knew I must have missed something skipping around like that. I've never used a brake rotor that needed a ring, so no personal experience. Sorry.
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Old 07-01-2015, 12:08 PM   #1947
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<p>We are ghetto rigging a BBK. Hence the need for rings. As far as I can tell we can just turn some rotors on a lathe to get the rings. Just cut out the middle bit. Or make our own.</p>
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Old 07-01-2015, 12:13 PM   #1948
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Its easier to just turn them out of aluminum round stock.
  1. measure Cooper rotor ID
  2. measure Miata hub OD
  3. measure Cooper rotor thickness
  4. ????
  5. Profit
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Old 07-01-2015, 12:16 PM   #1949
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<p>Probably lol. I'm gonna leave that up to Sean. He has a lot more machining experience than me. The turning rotors was just an idea.</p><p>The only real issue we had seen so far was that the rotors might be too thick. Also, not sure on wheel clearance yet. I know dynapros clear more because they are lower profile. They are more expensive but apparently you get a lot more pad material.</p>
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Old 07-01-2015, 12:31 PM   #1950
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<p>yes, hubcentric rings are absolutely required for the&nbsp;rotors. as EO2K explained above the bolts holes are not held to a tolerance and cant be relied upon to center the rotor, nor&nbsp;would i want to locate something that precise with a threaded locator.</p><p>mahcining the rings is cake, no problem there. piece of round stock- done.</p><p>the reason hub centerics arnt needed for wheels is becuase our cars use wheels with 60 degree conical seats, which serves that function. its funny how many arguments ive been in on s10forum about how you dont need hub centric rings as they use 60 conical lugs as well, and they&nbsp;center the wheel as they are torqued. the standard response is &quot;thats not what the internet says&quot;.</p>
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Old 07-01-2015, 12:33 PM   #1951
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<p>^what he said.</p><p>Honestly I'm just along for the ride. Sean has experience making s10 brake conversion parts. I have a mill that I will probably use to try and build my own. Then just give up when I destroy a **** ton of material, and beg sean to make me another set. </p>
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Old 07-01-2015, 12:34 PM   #1952
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I epoxied the hubcentric rings to my 6ULs. Come at me bro!
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Old 07-01-2015, 12:37 PM   #1953
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I epoxied the hubcentric rings to my 6ULs. Come at me bro!
</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>doesnt hurt, and it sure makes getting the wheels on and lugs started easier. saves on wearing out the seats too for those of us that swap wheel often</p>
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Old 07-01-2015, 12:54 PM   #1954
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<p>About to pull the trigger on these:</p><p>Hawk for 1994 2001 Mazda Miata HB149G 505 Brake | eBay</p><p>Anyone know where to get them cheaper?</p>
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Old 07-01-2015, 12:57 PM   #1955
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Oh yeah, I'm just being silly, I'm interested to see how this turns out.

After ruining a set of expensive pads on the stock brakes, I went with the 11" + Dynalite in order to get away from the stock caliper. My ultimate goal was to do the TSE 11.75" Upgrade but I'm finding the $375 to be tough to swallow as I'm not out driving the 11" setup. That might change when I'm running 3x the power on my fatass full interior NB, but I'll cross that bridge when I get there.
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Old 07-01-2015, 05:47 PM   #1956
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<p>Brakes are figured out for now. 1.8 brackets are in the mail from G, as are DTC-60's from yank. Going to run these cobalts to the ground and keep the DTC-60's and brackets in a box in my truck. I can swap brackets and rotors between sessions no problem. Going to bring my calipers and get an idea of how much wear I get per session.</p><p>My rear pads wear about twice as slow, and the cobalts started out with more material, so I think I should be good on those through thunderhill. Although depending on this weekend I may get some rear brackets and DTC-30s???? for the rear.</p><p>Rockauto or napa for rotors? Or vatozone?</p>
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Old 07-01-2015, 05:56 PM   #1957
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<p><span>hi_im_sean we should design rear brackets to mate 1.8 brakes to sport rotors.</span></p>
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Old 07-01-2015, 06:14 PM   #1958
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<p>Aaaand Vatozone wins by 7 cents! 39.98 instead of 40.05.</p>
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Old 07-01-2015, 06:42 PM   #1959
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<br /><p><span>hi_im_sean we should design rear brackets to mate 1.8 brakes to sport rotors.</span></p><br />
<br /><br />Was just going to go with sport brakes, but I like this better. Cheaper and easier to find.
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Old 07-01-2015, 06:42 PM   #1960
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<p>Also sports pad selection sucks and apparently 1.8 are better because emilio says so.</p>
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