Another boring, unimaginative rip-off build.
03-31-2014, 11:42 PM
#21
Picked up a T25 turbo for $100 on craigslist. The impeller has side-side and fore-aft movement, so i think I'll be rebuilding it.
this is from someone not running a filter?
Not sure how well that picture shows it. Is this anything i should be concerned with, or just roll with it, since it's a $100 turbo?
this is from someone not running a filter?
Not sure how well that picture shows it. Is this anything i should be concerned with, or just roll with it, since it's a $100 turbo?
Probably or just a shitty filter who knows with those skidracers.
You should be good to run it as is. Rebuilds are always nice though.
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04-08-2014, 09:31 AM
#23
Small update:
MS build has started.
I've never soldered PCB components, but it's going pretty well. I thought i had one screw up on Q19. My soldering from the backside was kind of ugly. I probed it with my multimeter in continuity mode, and kept getting beeps, indicating a short. I assumed i had a solder bridge, so i spent some time repairing the area. After doing a bit of research, i learned that it will SEEM like there's short, however, you need to probe it for resistance, and it checked out at ~1ohm.
Like so many other builds I've done in the past, I've changed my mind on a few things already. Not the first, won't be the last. After seeing Westfields Alt control board, i decided to order it. Much cheaper than buying an NA alternator. Also waiting on a 122pin connector to show up, so i can continue to follow Franks instructions. His guide is a lifesaver!
Another change to the schedule; I'll likely be sending off the injectors to be professionally cleaned. Upon closer inspection, i doubt this injector was working properly, nor do i think i can clean it the redneck way and feel confident:
MS build has started.
I've never soldered PCB components, but it's going pretty well. I thought i had one screw up on Q19. My soldering from the backside was kind of ugly. I probed it with my multimeter in continuity mode, and kept getting beeps, indicating a short. I assumed i had a solder bridge, so i spent some time repairing the area. After doing a bit of research, i learned that it will SEEM like there's short, however, you need to probe it for resistance, and it checked out at ~1ohm.
Like so many other builds I've done in the past, I've changed my mind on a few things already. Not the first, won't be the last. After seeing Westfields Alt control board, i decided to order it. Much cheaper than buying an NA alternator. Also waiting on a 122pin connector to show up, so i can continue to follow Franks instructions. His guide is a lifesaver!
Another change to the schedule; I'll likely be sending off the injectors to be professionally cleaned. Upon closer inspection, i doubt this injector was working properly, nor do i think i can clean it the redneck way and feel confident:
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04-20-2014, 07:14 PM
#24
So the build has been going somewhat slow. I just got the ECU connector, but it needs to be modified.
Question for those that have built their own MS3:
Following the manual, step 24:
I'm getting 4.5V at pin 20. Is this an issue?
Continuing on, I'm getting 4.8V at the other pins, which is closer to what i would expect.
Question for those that have built their own MS3:
Following the manual, step 24:
Put the -ve probe of you're voltmeter on pin 32 of the 40pin connector (U1) Note, this is WITHOUT the CPU card in place!
Put the +ve probe onto pin 20 (Top pin right side)
Ensure you read 5V (+- 0.1V)
Put the +ve probe onto pin 20 (Top pin right side)
Ensure you read 5V (+- 0.1V)
Continuing on, I'm getting 4.8V at the other pins, which is closer to what i would expect.
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