AutoFreak57's build thread
06-29-2010, 10:24 PM
#21
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Ok, it has been a couple days, so I guess I should update this.
Next was the gauge install. The previous owner put in the sony radio and cut the stock radio connector almost all the way off. I decided to reattach it to the harness and get an adapter for the radio. I then wired my gauge lights off of the radio and made a harness the signal wires for the gauges. I used the wiring connectors they sell at radio shack to make the harness. I also got all my gauges working 100% at this point. This was all over Easter weekend.
The miata had some roadster company
Picture of the TDR gauge panel again
Wiring mess after day 1
Hood open to wire up sensors (note: actually had coolant reroute installed at this point, beauty of after the fact builds)
Me staring very intently at something (I think I was messing with wiring connectors)
Here is a side view of the TDR gauge panel. I am not a fan of how thin it is, I was expecting a little more for the price. I still like the gauge panel and it would be my choice if I did it again too. The push button is the calibration for the LC-1. Takes me 5 seconds to pull out the gauge panel to calibrate if I want to.
Best picture I have of it installed (This was actually taken this weekend)
Also removed baby teeth
Next update: A close-up of the completed gauge panel
Next was the gauge install. The previous owner put in the sony radio and cut the stock radio connector almost all the way off. I decided to reattach it to the harness and get an adapter for the radio. I then wired my gauge lights off of the radio and made a harness the signal wires for the gauges. I used the wiring connectors they sell at radio shack to make the harness. I also got all my gauges working 100% at this point. This was all over Easter weekend.
The miata had some roadster company
Picture of the TDR gauge panel again
Wiring mess after day 1
Hood open to wire up sensors (note: actually had coolant reroute installed at this point, beauty of after the fact builds)
Me staring very intently at something (I think I was messing with wiring connectors)
Here is a side view of the TDR gauge panel. I am not a fan of how thin it is, I was expecting a little more for the price. I still like the gauge panel and it would be my choice if I did it again too. The push button is the calibration for the LC-1. Takes me 5 seconds to pull out the gauge panel to calibrate if I want to.
Best picture I have of it installed (This was actually taken this weekend)
Also removed baby teeth
Next update: A close-up of the completed gauge panel
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07-08-2010, 07:04 PM
#23
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So I guess it's turbo install time. I did this over Memorial Day weekend and it was hot as ***** inside the garage.
Thursday:
Friend comes down from Columbus and we take the car and parts over to a co-workers garage. Put car on lift and spread parts out to make sure we have it all. Leave car over night to cool off. Here are pictures of the garage. It is 40'x70' with a lift.
Note: My friend takes shitty pictures so some of these are blurry
Car on the lift
I'm super strong!!
Next update: Day 2 of turbo install
Thursday:
Friend comes down from Columbus and we take the car and parts over to a co-workers garage. Put car on lift and spread parts out to make sure we have it all. Leave car over night to cool off. Here are pictures of the garage. It is 40'x70' with a lift.
Note: My friend takes shitty pictures so some of these are blurry
Car on the lift
I'm super strong!!
Next update: Day 2 of turbo install
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07-08-2010, 09:51 PM
#24
Pretty sweet garage... all my work gets done in the driveway :(. And I don't think 'day 1 of turbo install' should count. Seeing as day 1's pictures include the car being in the garage and up on the lift. Now show real build pics, with stuff taken apart, and then a big hunk of metal hanging off the block.
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07-09-2010, 07:30 PM
#26
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Well you're lucky, because we took all the pictures on day 2 so no boring pictures of taking it apart. The rest of the days will be posted later today, just wanted to post a teaser, see if anyone was paying attention
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07-09-2010, 08:35 PM
#27
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Ok, so here is the actual turbo install. Will post cliffs in a couple minutes if you don't feel like reading all this
Day 2 - Friday
My 2 friends and I get an early start (8AM-ish) and go over to the garage (It was really more like 1 friend cuz the other never really did anything). The goal for day 1 was to get everything uninstalled. Tore apart everything and had no real surprises. Installed the injectors and the 323 pcv valve. Cut the access slot from the flyin' miata directions and went to install the turbo/manifold/elbow. We could not get the assembly on. The little slot was just not enough room for the turbo to fit in. We ended up pounding down the whole section next to the turbo to get it to fit. I think the slot might work if I was running the banjo bolts, but not with my AN fitting. We called it quits about 9:30PM and drank way too much Captain's.
Day 3 - Saturday
We got a late start (10-ish) because we were all hung over. We got everything installed this day and took all the pictures. Here are the things we struggled with. Because this kit has the upgraded intercooler, I had to bend a bunch of AC and PS lines (expected) and bend the horn bracket (unexpected). The intercooler was also a pain to install because we didn't pull the bumper off. The downpipe nuts are very hard to tighten. We ended up with a little exhaust leak and had to retighten a couple. The FM exhaust brace does not work with the roadster sport midpipe. It pushes the exhaust like 1" too far over to meet the downpipe. Anyone want a FM exhaust brace? The FM lower coolant hose is a pain in the ***. It leaked on me before I went turbo until I clamped it really tight on the block. It is very hard to get over the radiator inlet. We tried to press -6 lines onto the coolant outlets on the engine and could not get the bottom one on. We ended up using the stock hose to go up to the top of the PS pump and then a bung to the stainless line. We had the car on 4 wheels and put together by sunset. Hooked up the ECU and calibrated the sensors. Find out the 3-bar map sensor is toast (reading 3 bar all the time). Now I'm really frustrated, but we are done for the night. Drink, play pool, sleep.
Day 4 - Sunday
We search around for a 3-bar map and cannot find one locally. About to leave to get a 2-bar and Travis calls. He ends up bringing a new 3-bar over and gives it to me. Car cranks over and starts, but idles like complete crap. This is also where we find the exhaust leak. Travis spends a couple hours trying to get it to run right, but no go. We did put a suspension on my buddies STi though. So still no car :(
Day 5 - Memorial Day (Monday)
Get there in the morning, kinda depressed. Try to start it again, still idles like crap. I get looking through all the sensor readings in the computer and notice a weird trend in the injector test. 3 of the 4 injector voltage tests are over each other. Cylinder 1 has a flat line. Tear the intake manifold apart and pull the connector off. We managed to bend the electrical tab on the injector when we installed them. Plugged it in right, cranked her over and she runs purrs like a kitten. Button up the car, do a little tuning, and go play putt-putt!
Actually installed the heat shield and underbody during the week after the install.
Pictures (no particular order):
Tapping the pan. It is very tight in there, but not hard to drill at all
This is what she looked like after day 1
You can see the shelf we beat up
Decent shot of oil sump for people who want to see the space we're working in
Large intercooler really fills the mouth
Close-up of oil drain
Coldside pipe
Hotside pipe
Stainless Coolant Lines
Day 2 - Friday
My 2 friends and I get an early start (8AM-ish) and go over to the garage (It was really more like 1 friend cuz the other never really did anything). The goal for day 1 was to get everything uninstalled. Tore apart everything and had no real surprises. Installed the injectors and the 323 pcv valve. Cut the access slot from the flyin' miata directions and went to install the turbo/manifold/elbow. We could not get the assembly on. The little slot was just not enough room for the turbo to fit in. We ended up pounding down the whole section next to the turbo to get it to fit. I think the slot might work if I was running the banjo bolts, but not with my AN fitting. We called it quits about 9:30PM and drank way too much Captain's.
Day 3 - Saturday
We got a late start (10-ish) because we were all hung over. We got everything installed this day and took all the pictures. Here are the things we struggled with. Because this kit has the upgraded intercooler, I had to bend a bunch of AC and PS lines (expected) and bend the horn bracket (unexpected). The intercooler was also a pain to install because we didn't pull the bumper off. The downpipe nuts are very hard to tighten. We ended up with a little exhaust leak and had to retighten a couple. The FM exhaust brace does not work with the roadster sport midpipe. It pushes the exhaust like 1" too far over to meet the downpipe. Anyone want a FM exhaust brace? The FM lower coolant hose is a pain in the ***. It leaked on me before I went turbo until I clamped it really tight on the block. It is very hard to get over the radiator inlet. We tried to press -6 lines onto the coolant outlets on the engine and could not get the bottom one on. We ended up using the stock hose to go up to the top of the PS pump and then a bung to the stainless line. We had the car on 4 wheels and put together by sunset. Hooked up the ECU and calibrated the sensors. Find out the 3-bar map sensor is toast (reading 3 bar all the time). Now I'm really frustrated, but we are done for the night. Drink, play pool, sleep.
Day 4 - Sunday
We search around for a 3-bar map and cannot find one locally. About to leave to get a 2-bar and Travis calls. He ends up bringing a new 3-bar over and gives it to me. Car cranks over and starts, but idles like complete crap. This is also where we find the exhaust leak. Travis spends a couple hours trying to get it to run right, but no go. We did put a suspension on my buddies STi though. So still no car :(
Day 5 - Memorial Day (Monday)
Get there in the morning, kinda depressed. Try to start it again, still idles like crap. I get looking through all the sensor readings in the computer and notice a weird trend in the injector test. 3 of the 4 injector voltage tests are over each other. Cylinder 1 has a flat line. Tear the intake manifold apart and pull the connector off. We managed to bend the electrical tab on the injector when we installed them. Plugged it in right, cranked her over and she runs purrs like a kitten. Button up the car, do a little tuning, and go play putt-putt!
Actually installed the heat shield and underbody during the week after the install.
Pictures (no particular order):
Tapping the pan. It is very tight in there, but not hard to drill at all
This is what she looked like after day 1
You can see the shelf we beat up
Decent shot of oil sump for people who want to see the space we're working in
Large intercooler really fills the mouth
Close-up of oil drain
Coldside pipe
Hotside pipe
Stainless Coolant Lines
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07-09-2010, 08:39 PM
#28
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Cliffs
-Everything installed in 2 days, but would not run right
-Broke 3-bar map sensor by over-tightening
-Travis brought new one over but car would not run right
-Bent connector on injector 1, fixed and she ran
-FM exhaust brace does not fit with roadstersport midpipe, but is for sale
-Drilling and tapping the pan is very easy, despite the tight space
-FM's cut-out slot is too small, solved with BFH
Next update - The next 2500 miles after turbo
-Everything installed in 2 days, but would not run right
-Broke 3-bar map sensor by over-tightening
-Travis brought new one over but car would not run right
-Bent connector on injector 1, fixed and she ran
-FM exhaust brace does not fit with roadstersport midpipe, but is for sale
-Drilling and tapping the pan is very easy, despite the tight space
-FM's cut-out slot is too small, solved with BFH
Next update - The next 2500 miles after turbo
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07-10-2010, 09:35 PM
#31
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Well there's an autox tomorrow so you might get one
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07-19-2010, 09:23 PM
#33
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Ok, finally updating this.
Issues since turbo (~3000 miles)
-Random erratic idling. Turned out to be adaptronic adapter board got scratched.
-Overheating on highway
-Broken map sensor
1) Random erratic idling.
It turns out the adapter board was rubbing on the clutch pedal switch for the cruise control. It was jumping the idle control and making it go all the way open. I "fixed" that by covering the back of the board in e-tape. Noticed some bad solder joints too. Now some of the wires are crossing and messing with the idle. This week Travis is bringing a new adapter board to me and we are switching mine out.
Pictures:
2) Overheating
The car was overheating on the highway. It was 104*C-110*C on the highway. I made sure the system was bled and I put the underbody back on. Still ran pretty hot. The solution will be my next update.
3) Broken map sensor
I did my first autox since the turbo install on 7-11. I made it to corner 5 and it broke. I was at about 7000rpm and went hard onto the brakes. What I think happened is the engine torqued over and the map sensor hit the hood. There is a large scratch directly above the map sensor. As I said before, do NOT mount a map sensor to the throttle body like I did. Met the nicest guy with a locost that loaned me his truck to get home. Replaced the map sensor and moved it to the washer bottle and got the car running.
Dave's Locost ('93 miata based)
Tow Rig Home
Original, bad location
Relocated map sensor
Next Update: Radiator install
Issues since turbo (~3000 miles)
-Random erratic idling. Turned out to be adaptronic adapter board got scratched.
-Overheating on highway
-Broken map sensor
1) Random erratic idling.
It turns out the adapter board was rubbing on the clutch pedal switch for the cruise control. It was jumping the idle control and making it go all the way open. I "fixed" that by covering the back of the board in e-tape. Noticed some bad solder joints too. Now some of the wires are crossing and messing with the idle. This week Travis is bringing a new adapter board to me and we are switching mine out.
Pictures:
2) Overheating
The car was overheating on the highway. It was 104*C-110*C on the highway. I made sure the system was bled and I put the underbody back on. Still ran pretty hot. The solution will be my next update.
3) Broken map sensor
I did my first autox since the turbo install on 7-11. I made it to corner 5 and it broke. I was at about 7000rpm and went hard onto the brakes. What I think happened is the engine torqued over and the map sensor hit the hood. There is a large scratch directly above the map sensor. As I said before, do NOT mount a map sensor to the throttle body like I did. Met the nicest guy with a locost that loaned me his truck to get home. Replaced the map sensor and moved it to the washer bottle and got the car running.
Dave's Locost ('93 miata based)
Tow Rig Home
Original, bad location
Relocated map sensor
Next Update: Radiator install
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08-03-2010, 08:32 PM
#34
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Since the car was overheating, I decided I needed a bigger radiator. I bought the Mishimoto because my friend had good luck with one in his RSX and it was cheaper than the Koyo. I read about the fitment issues and was expecting to fight it putting it in. It actually went in very easily. I think I spent more time taking pictures than actually installing it. I also put a 180* thermostat in.
Modifications I had to make to install it:
-Bent the AC condenser brackets forward maybe 1/4". Not hard to do; just unbolt condenser and shove forward by hand
-Installed radiator without fans attached
-Moved clamps on charge piping around so they would not hit the fans
-Cut the bottom corner of the drivers side fan shroud off because it hit the PS lines
Here is the radiator when I got it
Compared to stock radiator
Stock
Remove driver's side fan so I can get to the lower radiator hose from the top
Here is the back of the AC condenser. Unbolt and bend the top tabs forward
Replace Thermostat
Fans bolted up with 0 modifications
Mishimoto sitting in place
Driver's Side Fan Shroud Modification (I think I made the cut a little bigger than this)
Clearance to charge pipes (clamp rests against fan)
Stock Swaybar clearance
Finished
Now this thread is caught up to current events. Who knows what the next update will be.
Modifications I had to make to install it:
-Bent the AC condenser brackets forward maybe 1/4". Not hard to do; just unbolt condenser and shove forward by hand
-Installed radiator without fans attached
-Moved clamps on charge piping around so they would not hit the fans
-Cut the bottom corner of the drivers side fan shroud off because it hit the PS lines
Here is the radiator when I got it
Compared to stock radiator
Stock
Remove driver's side fan so I can get to the lower radiator hose from the top
Here is the back of the AC condenser. Unbolt and bend the top tabs forward
Replace Thermostat
Fans bolted up with 0 modifications
Mishimoto sitting in place
Driver's Side Fan Shroud Modification (I think I made the cut a little bigger than this)
Clearance to charge pipes (clamp rests against fan)
Stock Swaybar clearance
Finished
Now this thread is caught up to current events. Who knows what the next update will be.
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08-03-2010, 09:44 PM
#37
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Yeah, I heard about that and I was planning on picking up a cap from AutoZone or something
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08-18-2010, 08:40 PM
#38
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Well, I did some more modifications. First, I did install the stock radiator cap onto the Mishimoto.
Next, I picked up some winter gear off of Craigslist. 5 - 15" Borbet wheels with winter tires and a hardtop. I might get it painted by winter time, we'll see.
I also decided that my FM turbo muffler was too quiet. After running no muffler for a little bit, I decided on an Enthuza Lightweight Turbo muffler. Arrived about a week later and it took me 15 minutes to install. I love the new sound. It is the perfect volume and not boomy on the highway. The FM muffler is for sale in the classifieds too.
Free beer coozie too!
Next update: maybe a dyno tune....
Next, I picked up some winter gear off of Craigslist. 5 - 15" Borbet wheels with winter tires and a hardtop. I might get it painted by winter time, we'll see.
I also decided that my FM turbo muffler was too quiet. After running no muffler for a little bit, I decided on an Enthuza Lightweight Turbo muffler. Arrived about a week later and it took me 15 minutes to install. I love the new sound. It is the perfect volume and not boomy on the highway. The FM muffler is for sale in the classifieds too.
Free beer coozie too!
Next update: maybe a dyno tune....
Last edited by AutoFreak57; 08-18-2010 at 08:57 PM.
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09-07-2010, 10:49 AM
#39
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Well it's official. I'm getting the car tuned on September 18th. Looks like I will be running 10psi which should give in the range of 250whp. I'm looking forward to it because I have been too lazy to put the time into cleaning up the tune after I got VVT working.
Here is a new autox pic too:
Here is a new autox pic too:
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