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Got some bling from 949!



Also got around to re-packing and reassmebling the front hub. Seems good? I will slap it on the car sometime and see how it does.



Uhhhh, yup, that would explain the brake fluid on my rim from the track day.



If anyone wondered how the front calipers went together. Very simple. Though getting the dust boot back on is a trick! took me 45 minutes to get the first one...



Passenger side piston and bore cleaned up.



Driver side piston had some pitting. It is narrower than the seal, so it should seal fine, though it might chew it up. It wasn't leaking before. I will order a new piston and seal kit and keep it on the shelf.



Also ordered a new rear passenger side caliper. It is seazed onto it's pin and will not move, also leaking internally. For the $80 it costs to get a new one with bracket, it's not worth the fight.

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So last Sunday was my first autocross event of the year. Dragged a friend along who did well considering he was driving his girl friend's automatic 2012 Mazda 2 on all seasons. He had a blast and raw times a good number of the other noobs driving "faster" cars. I think he is hooked, already going again june 5th...

Anyway, the NEPA region has some strange weather. We had sun, rain, wind, hail, and snow. Snow! Had some fun sliding around.

Here is a video of my fastest official time.



and the video of my fastest raw time, but I nailed a cone for +2. Oh well. Also, it had been hailing just a minute before, hence wonky the camera move.

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Went to the open house at Moto East to check out the shop and hang out. Also got the car weighed and the alignment checked. Apparently my garage floor is tipped (and I have some work to do on the alignment, but now I can kinda calibrate my tools to what I know the car is.)

Also, my car is a porker for a 1990, but at least the cross weights are good? This is 1/2 tank of gas and my usual things in it that I run with (sound system and spare tire still installed).



And with me in it. (need to lighten the driver a bit)



And alignment numbers.

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Got the new rear caliper mostly in this evening. I will be doing the soft lines tomorrow. Then the car should be ready for my next autocross on the 5th and I signed up for another TNiA at Pocono for the 14th. I will probably do one more track day sometime in the fall with NASA or something, definitely want to get some instruction, but the track night went super smooth so I have no problems going back again.

Any reason not to use my RE-71R for the track day? The long straits should give them enough time to cool and not grease out in the corners hopefully? They seem to over heat about as fast as my old Yoko S.Drives did and they did fine at the track so...

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New lines going in nicely. Fit is great and the new parts really stand out in there. Need to dirty them up a bit or something...



I am a sucker for a nice chunk of machined brass...

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And fronts done. Not a bad job at all, all the flair nuts came loose easily.

Girz0r

iTrader: (1)

Nice bling

If it's any quality like my extended clutch line those should be very well put together.

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I got them to match the 949 extended clutch line I have already.

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Ok, sitting down to make sure this adapter harness is wired correctly. I am going to try to get the wideband and the MS in this weekend.

EDIT: I feel like an idiot, just found the base maps on DIYautotune... gonna poke at those.

I can't find a base map. I don't 100% trust the map that is on there and have tried to make my own base map from it? If someone could look it over for me that would be great? I should add the car is bone stock 1.6. I will be using a GM IAT (unless I can find a calibration for the stock IAT sensor for testing).

Everywhere I read keeps saying to download the MSPNP2 basemap off http://www.megasquirtpnp.com/ but the website appears to be down?

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Brakes feel good with the new lines. Very slightly less squish, probably cause the lines were 26 years old..

I checked out the harness for the MS3x and it looks well made and correctly wired. There are a few wires I need to move/remove for my needs at the moment since I will be running the stock TPS and the IAT in the AFM. Also going to let the AFM work the fuel pump still. Why? because I have zero faith in my ability to tune and I have an autocross on the 5th and a track day on the 14th. If I set this up correctly, it should be switch the wideband to narrowband output, reconnect the TPS, and swap the ECU connectors to switch between stock and the MS. Don't have to worry about down time.

Anyway, wideband and boost guage are going in the center vents, just like everyone else. The connector for the wideband juuuust fit through this hole, like it was made for it. Perfect!



Wires through here. Going to probably run the vacuum hose for the gauge through a hole in the vent ducting. It would have to make too sharp of a turn otherwise. Need to get some hose as well...



Shortened up the vents on the lathe. I love this thing. No after pictures. woops...



Also figured out why my blower doesn't work that well. I wonder if this is why my AC sucks? Although the heat works well...

slowcarfast

Dude, grab a conservative timing and fuel map plus afr targets from the numerous sources out there and use auto tune. It's really not hard, just jump in and do it!

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

If you aren't running boost then just run. Base timing map and autotune fuel. Keep it at or below 12.0 at 100kpa and win.

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This is me jumping in. I can read and study all I like, but I don't truly understand something until I do it, so I am always a bit weary. I never feel right without a back up plan.

I also don't have the parts to make the intake yet, so moving a few wires (since I need to anyway) and calibrating with a different sensor is easier/quicker. The AFM will be coming out once I get the feel for what I am doing and everything is working.

And aidandj, 12.0:1 at 100kpa? Isn't that richer than even stock runs on these things? The DIYAutotune base map has 13.0:1 as the target in the AFR target table.

Also, something I haven't come across anywhere and I am making an assumption on: Tune analyze live uses the Target AFR table to tune, yes? Or is the Target AFR table only for using with EGO correction on?

slowcarfast

Fair enough. I'm one to talk, I hit the easy button buying a car that already had ms installed and running!

13.0 should be fine, especially without boost. And yes, the target afr table is what the computer uses when auto tuning.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Basically it's really hard to kill an engine N/A with a megasquirt and basemaps.

You might be right, it's been a while since I tuned my car N/A.

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Not so much worried about killing it as much as screwing a setting up somewhere or playing with something I should (which I have a tendency to do) and making the car run too poorly to use. I may just be over thinking all of this (also something I tend to do) and it will all be fine. I should know by tomorrow if this is all going to work.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

I've messed with almost every setting. And flashed all the beta firmwares. Just save your tune and you should be fine.

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Right, updated the MS to 1.4.1 or whatever the firmware version is and got my small laptop set up for tuning.

Finished gauge vents.



Ran MAP hose and O2 signal through this opening here.



Tidied it up and noone will ever know.



Ran the O2 cable though the shift boot like everyone else. Also changed the shifter bushing while I was there. In a stroke of luck, the bulb holder for the ash tray light fits in the boost gauge and the wire is long enough to reach! So a new #74 bulb and a green cap and I should be rocking.





Wires for the gauges all run.



And a test fit.



So when I pulled back the carpet to get to the ECU I found a nice surprise... What is it with rust in this spot on these cars? Yet another thing added to my to do list...



Anyway, I used the old ECU to make a mount for the MS. This will work until I get time to get down there and fix all that rust and brackets...





And mounted up.



I need to make some modifications to the radio harness and the MS harness next and then put it all back together. Then it will be time to try and start it.

With an AEM UEGO, that has both sensor and heater grounds together, is there any reason I should ground it somewhere specific? I can do the ECU main ground, ECU sensor ground or just ground it to the black wire behind the radio. I seem to get different answers depending where I look.

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Ok, I have hit a massive road block. The wideband rings at 14-16khz and drives me nuts. I am going to make a thread asking for help.

Measured it, for future reference, it has a fundamental of 5khz or so, first harmonic around 8.5 and second at 14.2ish.

EDIT: Work around found. See https://www.miataturbo.net/general-m...6/#post1335114

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Final solution for the noise issue was that the AEM was making the ground so noisy, the head unit was ringing internally.

Made a filter (cap connected between ground and power on the AEM) using a 2200uf cap, and then ran a new B+ for the radio. That has lowered the noise floor to acceptable levels.



The previous owner ran an 18x2 wire for the remote turn on. So I nabbed one of the wires and turned it into the new B+. Fused it inline with a 5A fuse.



Also, ran the USB wire from the megasquirt to the console.



Now it's time to button all this up and make the mods to the MS harness. After that, clean up and try and start it.