Introducing Jessica
07-30-2009, 09:30 PM
#1
Boost Pope
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Chicago. (The less-murder part.)
Posts: 33,020
Total Cats: 6,588
Introducing Jessica
Hello, Jessica.
Jessica is very sad. Her car died earlier this year. He was a handsome 99AE.
Since then, the other engines make fun of Jessica since she has no car to hold her. But her new owner has great plans for her. Soon, the other engines will no longer tease Jessica.
For she will kill them in their sleep.
Jessica is very sad. Her car died earlier this year. He was a handsome 99AE.
Since then, the other engines make fun of Jessica since she has no car to hold her. But her new owner has great plans for her. Soon, the other engines will no longer tease Jessica.
For she will kill them in their sleep.
Reply
0
0
07-30-2009, 09:45 PM
#2
lol, and now jessica's handsome 99AE is scrap metal.
__________________
Best Car Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote
__________________
Best Car Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote
Reply
0
0
07-31-2009, 03:58 PM
#12
Elite Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Birmingham Alabama
Posts: 7,930
Total Cats: 45
If your engine ends up looking like that I may have to come and add a special oil additive to her oil filler hole. No its not lithium grease... Just please get her an Adaptronic, she is stupid. Oh, and put a muffler on it.
Reply
0
0
07-31-2009, 09:38 PM
#13
Boost Pope
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Chicago. (The less-murder part.)
Posts: 33,020
Total Cats: 6,588
And now, a bit of "electronics guy" insider knowledge which I will share.
Any time you're going to remove a harness, buy a box of these tags first:
They're about $4 for a hundred at any office supply store, and come with the strings pre-attached.
Before unplugging each connector, hang a tag on it that says where that plug goes:
When you're done, your engine will look something like this:
As an added bonus, once the harness is out you have a beautiful and festive Tag Vine, suitable for brightening up any living room.
Any time you're going to remove a harness, buy a box of these tags first:
They're about $4 for a hundred at any office supply store, and come with the strings pre-attached.
Before unplugging each connector, hang a tag on it that says where that plug goes:
When you're done, your engine will look something like this:
As an added bonus, once the harness is out you have a beautiful and festive Tag Vine, suitable for brightening up any living room.
Reply
0
0
07-31-2009, 10:02 PM
#14
Elite Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Birmingham Alabama
Posts: 7,930
Total Cats: 45
Aw come on, you don't know those connectors!? I have dreams with those connectors haunting them. Labeling is a good practice, though I never have time for it. I would rather spend time later figuring it out. Though after dealing with them something like 6 times in the last 2 years, I know them well.
Reply
0
0
08-04-2009, 12:16 AM
#16
Boost Pope
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Chicago. (The less-murder part.)
Posts: 33,020
Total Cats: 6,588
Teardown is complete. Curiously, it would appear that I'm not the first to lay hands on Jessica in an intimate way. Both the cam caps and main caps have numbers stamped into them as though by the person who last rebuilt this engine, to keep them in proper order. On the plus side, all sizes (bore, crank main and rod journals) appear stock.
The crank is in really terrific shape. Oil clearances were all .028 - .035mm on the main journals and .030 - .040 on the rods. Endplay is .191mm on stock thickness thrust bearings. So these are all comfortably within standard specs, and will likely improve with a new set of std size bearings.
I'm not quite so comfortable with the cams. Oil clearances here ran between .076mm and .100mm all around, which is on the high side, or just outside of, standard spec, though still below maximum spec. (I'm going by the 1,6 FSM specs here- did the NB engine have a looser cam tolerance? I don't have the book for that one.) There is some visible wear on the cam journals (not quite enough to catch a fingernail on, but a trifle ugly) and some really interesting wear on the cam lobes and lifter shims. Additionally, lifter clearance on a couple of them was waaaaay out of spec on the lose side. (Hustler could slide his dick through the gap between a couple of 'em)
Not feeling extrordinarily confident here... I guess I'll go ahead and have the cam journals micropolished, and re-test to see if they're still below maximum, and just set up the valve clearances perfectly and hope for the best. On the plus side, a cam failure down the road isn't going to annihilate the whole engine, though it will annoy me greatly if I have to replace this head. Maybe I'm just being overly paranoid... (Damn you, Mazda, for not putting replaceable bearings in an aluminum head. Even the VW Beetle has cam bearings.)
Anybody ever machine down the bottoms of the cam caps and their mating surfaces on the head and then re-bore the holes?
Thought this was interesting. The crank is at TDC in this picture:
Makes you wonder... I did note that the timing belt appeared to be more or less brand new.
Next step, bore the block.
The crank is in really terrific shape. Oil clearances were all .028 - .035mm on the main journals and .030 - .040 on the rods. Endplay is .191mm on stock thickness thrust bearings. So these are all comfortably within standard specs, and will likely improve with a new set of std size bearings.
I'm not quite so comfortable with the cams. Oil clearances here ran between .076mm and .100mm all around, which is on the high side, or just outside of, standard spec, though still below maximum spec. (I'm going by the 1,6 FSM specs here- did the NB engine have a looser cam tolerance? I don't have the book for that one.) There is some visible wear on the cam journals (not quite enough to catch a fingernail on, but a trifle ugly) and some really interesting wear on the cam lobes and lifter shims. Additionally, lifter clearance on a couple of them was waaaaay out of spec on the lose side. (Hustler could slide his dick through the gap between a couple of 'em)
Not feeling extrordinarily confident here... I guess I'll go ahead and have the cam journals micropolished, and re-test to see if they're still below maximum, and just set up the valve clearances perfectly and hope for the best. On the plus side, a cam failure down the road isn't going to annihilate the whole engine, though it will annoy me greatly if I have to replace this head. Maybe I'm just being overly paranoid... (Damn you, Mazda, for not putting replaceable bearings in an aluminum head. Even the VW Beetle has cam bearings.)
Anybody ever machine down the bottoms of the cam caps and their mating surfaces on the head and then re-bore the holes?
Thought this was interesting. The crank is at TDC in this picture:
Makes you wonder... I did note that the timing belt appeared to be more or less brand new.
Next step, bore the block.
Reply
0
0
08-04-2009, 04:46 PM
#19
Boost Pope
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Chicago. (The less-murder part.)
Posts: 33,020
Total Cats: 6,588
My, Jessica is quite the dirty girl. Posing naked for the camera, no less?
Dirty girls need a good bath.
Now Jessica feels clean and pretty. Ready for her trip to the machinist.
Dirty girls need a good bath.
Now Jessica feels clean and pretty. Ready for her trip to the machinist.
Reply
0
0
08-04-2009, 04:48 PM
#20
Elite Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Birmingham Alabama
Posts: 7,930
Total Cats: 45
They wouldn't have hot tanked her for you? I never even take the time because the shops I always use do free hot tanking before they do any work. Though I guess it is fun to clean such a dirty girl yourself...
Reply
0
0
