Bryce does the VVTeez
03-21-2010, 01:32 AM
#41
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I'm gonna try to get it running naturally aspirated and run at the TAMSCC AX on Saturday. Should be very doable. Reason being is that there's been a change in plans for the hotside parts, and it will take some more time to acquire them.
Nice job on the reroute, it's all exactly what I did. I milled down the top of the thermo cover and welded a plate over the top to avoid the lack of threads. I milled it so low the cutter took off the top of the lip for the hose. Might look into it, if your welder is good enough, it'll remove a potential leakage spot.
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03-25-2010, 11:14 AM
#43
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A TIG welder?
That goddamn piece leaked. Apparently I didn't use enough JB-weld. Doesn't matter now, I'm having it welded.
I should have the car running and driving tonight, will post pics later. Just gotta get the thermostat housing and EGR port welded closed. I'm itchin for some break-in miles!
Nice job on the reroute, it's all exactly what I did. I milled down the top of the thermo cover and welded a plate over the top to avoid the lack of threads. I milled it so low the cutter took off the top of the lip for the hose. Might look into it, if your welder is good enough, it'll remove a potential leakage spot.
I should have the car running and driving tonight, will post pics later. Just gotta get the thermostat housing and EGR port welded closed. I'm itchin for some break-in miles!
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03-25-2010, 11:22 AM
#44
Man, this build is coming along awesome.
I wish I'd watched and seen your reroute plumbing, just shipped off a Kia waterneck the other day I would have given to you since you're local.
I had tried myself to see if the 1.6L neck fits with a spacer and it's way too close. I'm running mine spacerless, and still only have an inch back there, and still dinged it when swapping motors.
I wish I'd watched and seen your reroute plumbing, just shipped off a Kia waterneck the other day I would have given to you since you're local.
I had tried myself to see if the 1.6L neck fits with a spacer and it's way too close. I'm running mine spacerless, and still only have an inch back there, and still dinged it when swapping motors.
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03-29-2010, 12:12 AM
#45
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Well, I had a hell of a time getting the oil pump primed on Saturday.
Story of the year: Commercial vacuum pump connected to the turbo oil feed line will prime even Chuck Norris' unprimed oil pump. Shop vacs are for pussies.
I had a few problems getting the car to spark in all 4 cylinders. Then I discovered an oil leak (OMG!) coming from the crank pulley area. As it turns out, the spring on the crank seal had come halfway out and allowed it to leak. Thermostat relocation via the coolant reroute makes timing belt jobs a piece of cake. I had it off in 5 minutes.
Oil leak fixed, I was still struggling to get all 4 cylinders to fire. A trip to the store to pick up some BKR6Es solved that problem like magic. Apparently one of the plugs, while it looked exactly alike all the other plugs, liked to repeatedly foul with fuel.
I have grounded pin 1J to keep the fans running when the engine is on right now, as my MS doesn't have the fan mod soldered in yet.
Up and running now, with a nice drivable tune within 10 minutes using VEanalyzer live on Tunerstudio. I haven't played with the Variable TPS yet, but I have high hopes for it.
There is no replacement for displacement. Even without a turbo and running the base spark map, this sucker has more torque down low than my 1.6 ever had. I just can't wait till I bolt a hairdryer onto it.
Story of the year: Commercial vacuum pump connected to the turbo oil feed line will prime even Chuck Norris' unprimed oil pump. Shop vacs are for pussies.
I had a few problems getting the car to spark in all 4 cylinders. Then I discovered an oil leak (OMG!) coming from the crank pulley area. As it turns out, the spring on the crank seal had come halfway out and allowed it to leak. Thermostat relocation via the coolant reroute makes timing belt jobs a piece of cake. I had it off in 5 minutes.
Oil leak fixed, I was still struggling to get all 4 cylinders to fire. A trip to the store to pick up some BKR6Es solved that problem like magic. Apparently one of the plugs, while it looked exactly alike all the other plugs, liked to repeatedly foul with fuel.
I have grounded pin 1J to keep the fans running when the engine is on right now, as my MS doesn't have the fan mod soldered in yet.
Up and running now, with a nice drivable tune within 10 minutes using VEanalyzer live on Tunerstudio. I haven't played with the Variable TPS yet, but I have high hopes for it.
There is no replacement for displacement. Even without a turbo and running the base spark map, this sucker has more torque down low than my 1.6 ever had. I just can't wait till I bolt a hairdryer onto it.
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04-16-2010, 01:53 AM
#46
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IT'S TIME FOR A DRUNKEN UPDATE! I'VE BEEN DRINKING WHATEVER I CAN FIND IN THE FRIDGE.
I'm at the 100 mile oil change now, and am happy to report 0 scary metal flakes in the oil. I'm switching to Rotella Dino oil now, and will switch to synthetic sometime after 1500 miles based on Savington's reports.
The motor has been making a knocking sound since it's first breath. After listening to it with det cans at the last HMC club meeting, we deduced it was coming from cylinder #3 on the exhaust side of the head.
I pulled apart the head yesterday, and would like to report that timing belt jobs are a freaking cinch with no front thermostat housing.
One valve on the exhaust side of cylinder number 3 is .01mm too loose, and 1 valve on the intake side is .02mm too tight. I'm lucky, and a G, so I can get away with simply juggling shims around to make everything right. It should be back together tomorrow (today). Pray for me! No unusual wear on the cam gear caps or camshafts, according to my eyes. What do you think?
Here are some detail shots of the coolant reroute. I used the stock upper radiator hose pipe and another hose from Orielly, will find the part # later. On the Lower radiator side, I used the Begi Water pump inlet, and used the radiator hose splice from what is now the Begi racer reroute along with a 90* NPT street elbow hose barb to Tee the heater return into the line.
Oh yeah, my Camshaft seals were leaking. Hopefully that is the last of the small leaks I've found with this motor. Timing belt jobs ain't nothing, so this was actually fun.
I read that the master TurboTim won't be working on Manis + DPs until September/October, so I'm contemplating bolting on a 2871 or 2860-sized chinacharger with the S4 manifold and downpipe I have lying around, as a temporary cure for my boost addiction. I'd be very happy with 250whp right now. Thoughts?
I'm at the 100 mile oil change now, and am happy to report 0 scary metal flakes in the oil. I'm switching to Rotella Dino oil now, and will switch to synthetic sometime after 1500 miles based on Savington's reports.
The motor has been making a knocking sound since it's first breath. After listening to it with det cans at the last HMC club meeting, we deduced it was coming from cylinder #3 on the exhaust side of the head.
I pulled apart the head yesterday, and would like to report that timing belt jobs are a freaking cinch with no front thermostat housing.
One valve on the exhaust side of cylinder number 3 is .01mm too loose, and 1 valve on the intake side is .02mm too tight. I'm lucky, and a G, so I can get away with simply juggling shims around to make everything right. It should be back together tomorrow (today). Pray for me! No unusual wear on the cam gear caps or camshafts, according to my eyes. What do you think?
Here are some detail shots of the coolant reroute. I used the stock upper radiator hose pipe and another hose from Orielly, will find the part # later. On the Lower radiator side, I used the Begi Water pump inlet, and used the radiator hose splice from what is now the Begi racer reroute along with a 90* NPT street elbow hose barb to Tee the heater return into the line.
Oh yeah, my Camshaft seals were leaking. Hopefully that is the last of the small leaks I've found with this motor. Timing belt jobs ain't nothing, so this was actually fun.
I read that the master TurboTim won't be working on Manis + DPs until September/October, so I'm contemplating bolting on a 2871 or 2860-sized chinacharger with the S4 manifold and downpipe I have lying around, as a temporary cure for my boost addiction. I'd be very happy with 250whp right now. Thoughts?
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04-16-2010, 06:43 AM
#47
You musta been drunk, but I understand what chasing valve shims will do to ya.
Shoulda left break-in oil in there longer, 800-900miles. I may be wrong in this case for such a highly built motor, but it's the way I've always done our bikes and cars. People get anxious to change that first batch out.
I hope the motor quietens down a little now. Seems crazy that less than half a thousandth could do that...
Shoulda left break-in oil in there longer, 800-900miles. I may be wrong in this case for such a highly built motor, but it's the way I've always done our bikes and cars. People get anxious to change that first batch out.
I hope the motor quietens down a little now. Seems crazy that less than half a thousandth could do that...
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04-16-2010, 11:27 AM
#49
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You musta been drunk, but I understand what chasing valve shims will do to ya.
Shoulda left break-in oil in there longer, 800-900miles. I may be wrong in this case for such a highly built motor, but it's the way I've always done our bikes and cars. People get anxious to change that first batch out.
I hope the motor quietens down a little now. Seems crazy that less than half a thousandth could do that...
Shoulda left break-in oil in there longer, 800-900miles. I may be wrong in this case for such a highly built motor, but it's the way I've always done our bikes and cars. People get anxious to change that first batch out.
I hope the motor quietens down a little now. Seems crazy that less than half a thousandth could do that...
Valve lash adjustment shims: Making elementary-level math seem like rocket science since 1999.
I think I may need to buy a micrometer. Questions will be posted in a new thread regarding this.
I think of the first batch of oil as a way to wash out any metal shavings etc. that got into the motor while being rebuilt. I'd prefer that they didn't recirculate back through the motor, hence the short change interval at first.
When you've got $3k+ into a motor, oil suddenly becomes a relatively cheap assurance. Heck, Hustler changed his after 5 minutes of running. I also wanted to check it for metal flakes due to the clanking sound I'm hearing.
Does your intercooler-throttle body pipe clear the upper radiator hose? Mine is kinda smooshed up on the pipe.
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04-19-2010, 01:47 PM
#51
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The results are in. Setting the clearances in the head did not fix the knocking sound. Recordings will go in another thread once I feel satisfied with the quality. Will a compression test be of any use here?
I mounted the AIT sensor into the intake pipe now instead of ziptying it to it. I haven't had time to test it but I'm sure hot restarts will be much better.
Excellent idea. Only problem is that my stock ECU is still controlling idle, so I'd have to go standalone to control the 1.8 IACV. It is a good excuse to do that, and upgrade to MS3 at the same time.
I mounted the AIT sensor into the intake pipe now instead of ziptying it to it. I haven't had time to test it but I'm sure hot restarts will be much better.
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05-28-2010, 12:38 AM
#55
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Time for an update! You thought this was my build thread huh? No, it's my unbuilding thread.
The car has been sitting for a few weeks while I wait for the opportunity to remove the engine, AGAIN.
That happened last weekend. Many thanks to Stan (pitlab77) for helping out. I owe him an Aventinus.
One cool thing to note:
Jacking the rear up and lowering it onto wheel ramps gives you an extra 4 inches of height versus rolling it onto the wheel ramps.
We had the motor out in 3-4 hours.
He slacks off, allot. Just kidding!
Insert: Picture of Stan posing on my car with caption "Hustler, wish you were here"
Why I hate Texas and what I do about it.
Here's my coolant reroute coldside hose in it's entirety.
Today I started like this...
and ended like this:
That was my first time removing a head from any engine. It was pretty easy.
Perfect candidate for water injection, no?
From what I can tell by looking at the bottom end, nothing is visibly wrong with the motor. I'll be taking it down to the shop tomorrow, and hopefully picking it up in 2 weeks, after I get back from Disney World!
The car has been sitting for a few weeks while I wait for the opportunity to remove the engine, AGAIN.
That happened last weekend. Many thanks to Stan (pitlab77) for helping out. I owe him an Aventinus.
One cool thing to note:
Jacking the rear up and lowering it onto wheel ramps gives you an extra 4 inches of height versus rolling it onto the wheel ramps.
We had the motor out in 3-4 hours.
He slacks off, allot. Just kidding!
Insert: Picture of Stan posing on my car with caption "Hustler, wish you were here"
Why I hate Texas and what I do about it.
Here's my coolant reroute coldside hose in it's entirety.
Today I started like this...
and ended like this:
That was my first time removing a head from any engine. It was pretty easy.
Perfect candidate for water injection, no?
From what I can tell by looking at the bottom end, nothing is visibly wrong with the motor. I'll be taking it down to the shop tomorrow, and hopefully picking it up in 2 weeks, after I get back from Disney World!
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08-18-2010, 08:04 PM
#56
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Now that the motor has been in the shop for a few months... I'll post an update. Here's the piston from cylinder number 3. How can this happen without boost, or any excessively lean conditions, on the base timing map? This should explain the knocking sound, right? Everything else on the bottom end checked out.
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08-18-2010, 11:29 PM
#57
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Holy motherfucking melted piston.
Could someone please explain to me though how that would cause a knocking sound. I can't think of how it would unless the piston warped like ******* mad??? Better explanation please.
Was this a piston from the 2.0 motor? Is that a Wiseco? I haven't seen miata Wiseco piston carnage before.
Also just because you have good AFRs that doesn't mean a cylinder is not lean. Mebbe an injector is fucked.
Could someone please explain to me though how that would cause a knocking sound. I can't think of how it would unless the piston warped like ******* mad??? Better explanation please.
Was this a piston from the 2.0 motor? Is that a Wiseco? I haven't seen miata Wiseco piston carnage before.
Also just because you have good AFRs that doesn't mean a cylinder is not lean. Mebbe an injector is fucked.
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08-18-2010, 11:32 PM
#58
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This is a JE piston meant for a Honda, 85mm bore.
That also occurred to me. I am sending the injectors off to be tested, otherwise, I don't know what could've caused this. They are pretty new Duestchwerks 800cc (maybe 750?) injectors though
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