Build Thread (FE3, RX7 TII, EFR 6258, MS3)
11-24-2014, 11:45 AM
#481
Turning a new page in the car project. Its been a hard decision but after picking up a new DD i think its time. Hopefully i'll be ready for the 2015 season. Adding a cage and gutting the interior. Open to other suggestions / advice on this build as well. This community has always been a big help!
Challenges:
-Removing dynomat / weight reduction
-Bare bones dash design
-Traction
-Fuel system updates / e85
New daily: 2004 BMW M3 40,000mi
Challenges:
-Removing dynomat / weight reduction
-Bare bones dash design
-Traction
-Fuel system updates / e85
New daily: 2004 BMW M3 40,000mi
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11-24-2014, 12:42 PM
#482
Senior Member
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Join Date: May 2005
Location: Edmonton Ab, Canada
Posts: 1,202
Total Cats: 21
Yes it was super thin. If i had to do it again i'd make a bolt in brace that would be connected to the frame rails. that way if you bail on the project you can always go back to the 1.6 stuff. DC2696 has the right idea. He was able to swap back to the 1.6L setup in <12 hours after he popped his FE3 at Laguna seca.
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02-04-2015, 12:45 AM
#483
Picked up a spec cage from a friend. Pulled it this last weekend. Next plan is to gut the interior again, simi hardcore weight reduction, change some wiring, cut / modify the dash, weld in the cage, Install gutless interior, new clutchmasters 6 puck HD pressure plate install, potential gear slam videos.
Is there any reason to keep the OE seatbelt columns or can i cut them out? I'll keep the hard top latch location of course.
Does anyone know of someone that has dropped the tank, cut out the tank hump as seen from the trunk, and installed a fuel cell in its place? I'd weld the interior of the car so the cabin would be closed and the tank would be fillable from the trunk. I figure i can drop 15-20 pounds by doing this.
What about these 2 low hanging sections of the rear of the car that the hitch usually attaches to? Cut them out or keep them? I might be able to get more aggressive with a rear diffuser if they are gone.
Is there any reason to keep the OE seatbelt columns or can i cut them out? I'll keep the hard top latch location of course.
Does anyone know of someone that has dropped the tank, cut out the tank hump as seen from the trunk, and installed a fuel cell in its place? I'd weld the interior of the car so the cabin would be closed and the tank would be fillable from the trunk. I figure i can drop 15-20 pounds by doing this.
What about these 2 low hanging sections of the rear of the car that the hitch usually attaches to? Cut them out or keep them? I might be able to get more aggressive with a rear diffuser if they are gone.
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02-05-2015, 08:59 AM
#486
No reason to keep seatbelt posts if you're installing a cage. Main hoop to improve any structure they may have added. Those two rear pieces that hang down from the tub channels were for the tow hooks used to tie the car down in transport. Chop 'em in box 'em.
There are tons of builds that remove that sheet metal cap and put a fuel cell there (or in the trunk). FM:
Flyin' Miata : Projects: Track V8
seat belt posts-
Project Mazda Miata Time Attack Part 1 - Sport Compact Car
There are tons of builds that remove that sheet metal cap and put a fuel cell there (or in the trunk). FM:
Flyin' Miata : Projects: Track V8
seat belt posts-
Project Mazda Miata Time Attack Part 1 - Sport Compact Car
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02-08-2015, 03:54 AM
#488
I'm going to try to find a solution to wire in a VSS somewhere. No reed switch off the trans with the 3" exhaust so it'll have to be something that looks at driveshaft or axle speed. Open for suggestions.
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08-18-2015, 12:30 AM
#493
SADFab Destructive Testing Engineer
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Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Beaverton, USA
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<p>Seriously.</p><p>dry sump, cage, corn hole juice, just general epicness needs to be documented.</p><p>We're going to try flex fuel tuning soon too.</p>
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08-18-2015, 12:32 AM
#494
SADFab Destructive Testing Engineer
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Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Beaverton, USA
Posts: 18,642
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<p>Seriously get on it.</p><p>High comp custom long rod motor, corn hole juice, cage, dry sump, the works. Show your **** off.</p><p>And lets tune flex fuel soon. I'm running out of money but need to play with e85.</p>
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08-18-2015, 12:47 AM
#496
Tools that get the fab job done. I've been doing all the fabrication for PREracing lately and haven't stopped working on my project. I've acquired these and they are awesome. Just fyi.
Willwood dual master with some DIY adapter plate that bolts to the master.
Kill switch... Engage.
Changed my intake piping around. Probably half the volume this way. "the back door" straddles the circle track dual pass PRC radiator. An added benefit to doing this is that there is a perfect opening in the corners of the wisdom body kit front bumper for brake ducts now.
Also see new Ford throttle body and drive pressure sensor setup.
New Clutchmasters Clutch. I've struggled with getting my ACT clutch adjusted / engaging correctly since I've gotten this thing running but it was the clutch setup all along. Since I've swapped to the Clutchmasters clutch its been silky smooth engagement at the correct pedal height.
AEM 5 bar drive pressure sensor for kicks and giggles. I'm hoping to learn things from this data acquisition.
Anddddddd>>> Ethanol.
Willwood dual master with some DIY adapter plate that bolts to the master.
Kill switch... Engage.
Changed my intake piping around. Probably half the volume this way. "the back door" straddles the circle track dual pass PRC radiator. An added benefit to doing this is that there is a perfect opening in the corners of the wisdom body kit front bumper for brake ducts now.
Also see new Ford throttle body and drive pressure sensor setup.
New Clutchmasters Clutch. I've struggled with getting my ACT clutch adjusted / engaging correctly since I've gotten this thing running but it was the clutch setup all along. Since I've swapped to the Clutchmasters clutch its been silky smooth engagement at the correct pedal height.
AEM 5 bar drive pressure sensor for kicks and giggles. I'm hoping to learn things from this data acquisition.
Anddddddd>>> Ethanol.
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