rb26dett

Congratulations! It's a great moment every time! :-)

yank

iTrader: (1)

Forgive my hesitation. This is definitely out of my realm of expertise.

rb26dett

Is it drivable? If so, get a friend to drive it, or tune, and go for a cruise. You'll get the bits that matter squared away in no time.

soviet

iTrader: (10)

your fuel map appears to be flat. don't do that. scale it diagonally so that the max load/max rpm corner is the highest value. you want the map to be super-rich to start with.

also tuning no-load cells through the entire rpm range is pointless. the only time you will hit them is on engine braking/deceleration and who cares about that?

Just drive and let VEAL run. It's magic.

yank

iTrader: (1)

Good advice. Ill take another look at your fuel table soviet and scale mine up accordingly.

I think i have air in my clutch line (wasn't working last night) so i'm going to bleed it again this afternoon and hope that fixes my problem. (Miata clutch master and RX-7 slave) **crosses fingers**

VEAL tunes off of target afr i assume so i've modeled mine off of what i found in this thread.
https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquir...e-61587/page3/
I think what i have in my table is a little on the rich side so hopefully its safe. Also my timing table has no less than 15 degrees in boost and no less than 22 degrees. Once i get revs up high enough ill set the knocklite.

yank

iTrader: (1)

Still having some issues with the clutch not fully disengaging but i rigged it up enough to get it on the road yesterday afternoon. "drive 8" has a long 4th gear pull in it about halfway through. I'll try to post the tune when i get home this afternoon. Building ~9lbs boost on WG spring pressure. I need to learn more about timing and how to tune it so if anyone has any good articles please PM or post a link. I'll do some searching on my own as well.

mighty mouse

iTrader: (9)

Can you adjust the pedal at all? I forget, but did you have to space the clutch fork out at all with the FE motor? I know I had to add 1/2" to the clutch fork.

I'm still using the miata slave on my TII trans FWIW.

yank

iTrader: (1)

I was actually going to ask you about this. Im using the RX7 bell housing fork and slave so i would think that the assembly should be functioning correctly unmodified. The slave piston is currently under a little pressure by the fork so i hate to shim the fork because its going to put more pressure on the clutch pressure plate which gives me less clamping force. I really just need more clutch fluid volume transfer from the master to the slave. I tried adjusting and even shimming the master and got it to work but it engages on the floor. with the shim in the master cylinder the pedal is pressure pre-loaded (prob not good for it) where the clutch is rock solid as soon as your foot touches it. this gives me about an inch of travel at the slave and puts the clutch engaging about 1/2" off the floor. (way too low.) Im going to see if i can get an RX7 master cylinder in and see how much different they are volume wise. If you have any other things to try let me know..

MM you're running the miata bell housing right?

m2cupcar

iTrader: (5)

I bought a B2xxx clutch slave only to find the fluid fitting was different. But I noticed that the actual cylinder/piston was the same size as the Miata's - the rod was just longer. So I just lengthened the Miata rod and that worked well. I'm curious about adjusting your clutch pedal though. 1" of slave action is huge! I don't think mine moves but about half that.

yank

iTrader: (1)

The Rx7 clutch master bolts right up after drilling out the provided tapped holes with a 7/16" drill bit. I honestly think my stock clutch master was going out which was causing the problem. I noticed when doing this swap that the piston wasnt returning to home. (bad spring or issues with the bore probably) I've been driving some but have had a few issues with air getting into my manifold somehow. (idling at 2000 rpm sometimes then fine others with the throttle plate adjusted completely closed and the IAC valve at near closed values. ~20 steps or less.) I picked up a second set of O rings to put on the shoulder of my injectors in hopes that a double seal with keep things air tight. Then im going to run another boost leak test and see where i'm at.

Pics of the clutch master cylinder swap and AFR target and timing table to come.

yank

iTrader: (1)

Current AFR target and ign timing table.


Doubled up on the injector O rings in hopes to stop any leaks.


Difference in clutch master cylinders Miata vs RX7 TII


I think mine was just bad. notice the piston is further up in the bore and is not returning to zero.


Mounted.


Still having issues with high idle. fixing this is now priority on the things to do list. Then i need to put the body panels on and make a plate to mount the shifter boot to in order to keep the hot air from the exhaust under the car.

soviet

iTrader: (10)

what firmware are you running? update to the latest version, it has magical changes for idle.

yank

iTrader: (1)

Well its been about a week since my last update.
The firmware update seemed to help alot. I also richened up the mix a bit and retarded timing to around 12 deg. It still smokes some until it gets up to temperature and im not sure if its because its rich or if its oil getting past the rings while its still cool..
After solving some tire rubbing issues in the rear (mods to the miata hub to accept the rx7 TII axles are effectively equivalent to a centimeter thick wheel spacer.) I seem to be having fuel pressure issues after driving my car for a bit. After 30 minutes or so the pressure would slowly drop to 20 psi which would cause VEAL tuning to richen up my whole map and made tuning idle near impossible due to the 1000cc injectors size. I didnt have any problems with pressure on my 70 mile trip today so with fingers crossed im moving on to solve other less pressing issues. I have cruise AFRs set to 15.5 and EGTs at the collector are around 1500 to 1600 degrees F at cruise.

The car feels quick at 10 psi but still not as fast as i expected. Im guessing around 240 to 260 ish to the wheels right now. It was worse but after i leaned up the transition into boost a bit it picked up a little. Hopefully i can figure out the boost control settings and slowly start to bump up the pressure.

Next on the agenda is to make some adjustments to the radiator and intercooler mount due to some metal on metal vibrations and then making a cover for the ignition coils that will hold them down.

Fuel pump
HFP 255LPH Fuel Pump Mazda Miata / MX-5 1990 - 2005
Ran it at 70 psi today without issue. Previously at 43 and 60 with pressure loss over time. ...Interesting.

soviet

iTrader: (10)

10 psi is ok we're moving
15 psi is yey fast
20 psi is o damn
24 psi is ------- turbine wheel

GTI

I'll just leave this here. (I might be working this event... If you run, I want a ride.)

2012 Holley LS Fest - Autocross | Facebook

m2cupcar

iTrader: (5)

re: smoke - do you have enough time on it for the rings to have seated? Does it smoke worse as the revs come up when cold? if it does you should be able to tell if it's oil or fuel smoke.

yank

iTrader: (1)

I have about 300-400 miles on it. It seems to clean up when i give it more throttle. I believe afrs are about 12.0 at idle. I'll take a closer look next time but smoke is definitely white / greyish.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

what crap injectors do you have installed?

yank

iTrader: (1)

I could probably lean it out more but going rich has been the only way to stop the surging idle so far.

ID1000's

*Edit excuse*

I got them off a local Honda guy that offered me them for a set of used stock Civic injectors. Price was right.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

are you running seq. injection? Those can easily idle at stoich.