18psi

iTrader: (76)

interesting arguments for both sides. I just think it comes down to being honest about whether 400 will be all you want or go higher later. that pretty much answers your question.

miatauser123

iTrader: (7)

I'd like to think that it's a decision about how much power I WANT. But truth is I'm likely going to start destroying other parts of the car with this type of powe... I'm betting my differential explodes first.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

look at hf-mx5t's thread: same turbo with same power level you want. perfect person to take notes from

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

Ahhhhhh good point!!!

z


Ok i have been there done that. Here are my recommendations:

For 400hp, gt3076 is -just- big enough. 3071 really isnt. I hit 398hp with a .82 housing and a begi s5 log at 26psi. That was with a lot of dyno tuning on a generous dyno. Realistically, I was prob somewhere around 330-350. Miatas with 3071s just dont make 400hp. JayL broke 400hp with a LOT of tuning with his 3076 and meth and a tubular.

I really enjoyed the 3071 but do not expect to be the fastest kid on the block. You wont be. The 3071 was a very fun turbo and quite streetable. You will enjoy your 3076, but i recommend valvesprings so you can rev to 8000rpm+. It makes a big difference in driveability.

Unfortunately, if you want north of 450 or 500hp, you will need a bigass turbo. Gt35 or GT40 sized. Yes, i have seen eliminators plots and i think he had a warm fuzzy social worker dyno. Yes I have seen other 500hp miata plots too, and tey were running gt35 or bigger. There is a reason I chose "theworldsbiggestturbo" o break 500hp.

Regarding AR, go for the biggest turbine housing possible. Backpressure is bad. Makes you sacrifice timing. Sacrificing timing and retarding it eventually means burnt valves, carbon buildup, and detonation. .63 is wayyyy too small for 400hp unless you run race gas or e85. If you do run that fuel, then have fun cheating. I will too when I dyno

And

Best of luck. You are obviously better than me at everything car wrenching but beware for the angle of the mountain of ALLOFIT gets ever steeper the higher you go.

miatauser123

iTrader: (7)

This weekend I was able to make some progress on the engine bay. Since I’ve got some down time while I wait for BEGi to finish my exhaust manifold. I ended up with the .63 TiAL vband housing. The turbo should be able to make what I’m looking for with this housing on E85 with the other supporting items being installed.



I’ve basically decided to move forward with spraying the entire engine bay to support the theory that I’m better than Fae at everything.
I went through and removed all of the things. Brake lines, clutch line, fuse box, brackets hardware and just about everything else you could remove from the bay. Any rough areas I hit with a rust removal pad on my angle grinder.


From there I covered the exposed metal with some SEM self etching primer to ensure the paint would hold.



I filled up my touch up spray gun and set it to a pretty narrow spray pattern to hit the tight spots. Got through my first layer of base coat and called it a night. With another coat of base and some clear this engine bay is going to look extremely legitimate. A nice new home for my shiny BEGi parts. I feel like I’m a car **** producer.



Order from Deatsch Werks came in – Everything was packaged nicely and looks top notch. The injectors came with a flow testing sheet that showed results within accurate within .06% of each other. Also included is the fuel pressure correction and the voltage correction table. That should make setting up my Adaptronic for these new injectors fairly easy.

Pretty new parts. I’ll get these dropped in this week when I bolt up my BEGi intake manifold.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

That's because you are. Shiny white clear coated underhood = teh secks

inglar

Nice choice. I have the 3076 with .63. got 405hp at the wheels at 1.38 bar. At that point the back preassure was .2 if I remember correctly. 725 ID injector was not big enough (running on 90% duty cycle) so I had to stop at 1.38 bar. Original VVT top. Next on the list is new injectors. If I was going to change the torbo I would have taken a seriuosly good look at the 3576 with .82. And port the hell out of the top.

soviet

iTrader: (10)

I'm interested to see how long your "nice clean engine bay" lasts. Mine is still nice, but brake fluid does quick job of any clear coat :(

miatauser123

iTrader: (7)

Last night I was able to get the rest of the base coat down and spray the clear - This engine bay is going to be some serious car ****.





Still waiting on some parts that have been ordered:

• BEGi S6 VBAND Manifold
• Boundary Engineering Oil Pump
• BEGi VBAND Downpipe
• Misc AN lines - AN Coolant Setup for the GT30R

kieran

I just read this entire build it took me 2 days while at work and I have to say



You are amazing!! makes me proud to own a white NB and at the same time makes me extremely embarrassed about the condition of her

JoeTheZoe

iTrader: (1)

Please say something absurd, like: "I did it all with rattle cans," So I can feel even more admiration for your skills...

miatauser123

iTrader: (7)

You guys crack me up.. I actually used a production spray gun and real automotive PPG paint. I painted professionally at one point. I appreciate the support though. Keep it coming.

The same night I repaired an Evo door for a friend of mine. It was a bit caved in an wrinkled but I was able to get it looking half decent for a garage spray job.

miatauser123

iTrader: (7)

Some new parts came in today. I decided to go with the Mishimoto Oil Cooler kit - It's simple and the hard parts are tough to mess up.

The oil cooler kit might just end up getting used with my Setrab oil cooler core but pricing out the -10AN line alone I couldn't beat my cost on it. The -10AN lines look premo though.

The sandwich plate is not thermostat equipped but I figure between the factory cooling/heating jacket around the filter housing and the fact that I'm running a rather small core, I won't have oil tempatures on the low side.

The catch can will see some modification before it's installed. I basically bought it just because of the size and it looks nice. Prior to installation I'll tap out a hole in the top and install a good sized breateher filter. My plan is to run my 2 -8AN lines from my valve cover into the existing ports on the catch can and the breather filter will be my atmospheric vent.




This is just for the eye candy- By the way - Not sure if any of you cats are on instagram but my user name is "Modulation".

miatauser123

iTrader: (7)

Mmmmm.. More parts...

miatauser123

iTrader: (7)

Got the new oil pump in from BE. Looks very well prepared when you pull it out of the package. Didn't use a gasket, just Permatex Black RTV.


The new intake piping is just a mock up at this point while BEGi is fabricating the manifold. It's some big stuff though. 4 inch directly from the turbo, to a 4 inch elbow and then it reduces down to 3 inch. I'm working on a way to run the filter through to the bumper. I'd much rather pick up ambient air.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

If you're running traditional hotside route you can simply enlarge the hole behind the headlight and route intake through there

pdexta

iTrader: (17)

Are you still running AC? I'd love to see the final route you take from turbo to intake manifold, I had a tough time snaking my tiny piping around the AC.

miatauser123

iTrader: (7)

I'm still running AC. The routing will stay about the same as it was before from BEGi, which left the AC unaffected.

miatauser123

iTrader: (7)

Now that I’ve got the pump mounted, which required the removal of everything; I could assess the source of my small leak, my oil pan. The two rubber gaskets on each end looked to be pretty beat up. It’s likely I over tightened the pan the first time around.

Next was time to take care of the brake and clutch system. There are lines running all over the place that are poorly routed for a turbo being mounted in the engine bay. Specifically the one that runs within inches of the turbo hot side (Drivers side front).
I first re-painted the brake booster:

It was coming together like candy:


I re-routed the brake bias thing behind the cowl along with both the brake lines and the clutch line all behind the cowl (all done with rubber grommets). Then I ran the driver’s side front brake directly through the inside of the fender to avoid the heat.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

so fresh and so clean