Originally Posted by paNX2K&SE-R
Did you use the existing evap system vapor hard line for the return?
Yes I did.
So with the manifold complete I could go ahead and get to the installation part. It’s been mocked up already for fitting the oil and coolant lines but I double checked this again.
During the installation I noticed that the wastegate tube was a bit too close to the engine bay and would likely make contact with the movement of the engine. So I mocked it up to draw out where I’d be modifying the bay and made my cut. I then painted the freshly exposed metal to avoid rust.
With the turbo installed I went through to check if any of the lines were making contact with anything else. To be safe I covered a couple of them with rubber line and stainless ties.
Then I installed my silicone outlet elbow. I ended up making a couple of adjustments that would keep it from making any contact with the frame. Looks like it was intended to be here.
Next was to install my fuel rail. I ordered the M-Tuned rail from 949.
The website states that the rail will work with my vehicle. However I mocked it up and it made contact with the valve cover when used with the correct holes for my injector alignment. So I pulled it off the car and removed some material.
After that it was perfect.. Strange how this was overlooked…
Next was to Depower my steering rack. Since I had to remove the pump, I’d rather have real manual steering. I uninstalled the rack and got it on the bench for disassembly.
The basics of this job are to remove the seal from the shaft that was used to hydraulically push the shaft back and forth. Without a pump you just end up having to push this fluid through the lines, causing resistance. So I removed the shaft and placed it in the vice.
Next I cut a slice through the ring, then popped it off with a couple of pry bars.
I also noticed that I had a slight bend in my outer tie rod. Oddly enough I had one laying around so I tossed that on and reinstalled the boots.
After the seal is removed, you cover the moving components with thick bearing grease and reassemble it. At this point you can remove all of the hydraulic lines but you want to cap them off to keep dust and dirt out.
Next I moved on to some of the vacuum components. Wastegate, regulator, brake booster…
After installing each component with the hard lines I would attach an air tool with a regulator to the end of it. I’d slowly crank up the pressure to about 40-50 psi and listen for leaks. I’ve had no reason to doubt these hard lines but it’s piece of mind.
Since my girl has been hanging in the garage with me I figured I’d upgrade her seating form the riding lawn mower to a nice hammock… Looks about right.. Hammock + 50 shades of Grey = happy girl.
Next it was time to figure out where to put my bov. I’ll be using my Synapse recirculation valve as an atmospheric dump. I chopped off the old mounting pipe and made a new home for it just after the intercooler inside the bumper cover.
I’ll set that aside until I can make it over to my buddy’s place with a welder. So next was to replace that damn leaking diff seal. Since I’ve changed the axle a couple of times, it’s started to leak. I crawled under the car to discover this….
The diff arm is broken off… Since I’m using that beatrush brace, I probably couldn’t even tell it was broken. My guess is, it’s been broken for awhile now though.
I’ll take this with me and weld it too.. I’ll likely box in the I beam part with more aluminum material. I doubt the diff internals are going to last long as it sits anyways but the arm probably won’t brake again with the beatrush brace installed.
Until next time my hoe…