Building a blonde young beefcake wearing nothing but skimpy shorts named Rocky
#901
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Yeah it is. The FM 1 does not have as extreme of a pressure plate as the FM 2 does. That's really the only way they were able to get the power capabilities out of a single disk clutch.
#902
I don't have any feedback on the compound, but as far as the size goes, i think they'll look really great. Personally I've got 225/50/16s, which are margionally taller than the 245/45/16s you're looking at. They're around 2" taller than stock, but give the miata such a mean look. The sidewall should help you a bit too.
#903
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I has new tires… These guys are BIG. Big being a relative term for Mazda Miatas of course.
I tossed them on and the fenders must be rolled but they just barely fit all the way around.
I also got my manifold back – The DART DC-2 Coating came out great. I tossed it on and I can literally tighten the V-Band flanges while the car is running. This stuff keeps some serious heat out of the engine bay. It is booger green though..
I tossed them on and the fenders must be rolled but they just barely fit all the way around.
I also got my manifold back – The DART DC-2 Coating came out great. I tossed it on and I can literally tighten the V-Band flanges while the car is running. This stuff keeps some serious heat out of the engine bay. It is booger green though..
#908
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They look very close but I think I'll be alright. If not... I'm notching my sub frame mounts and moving my wheel base back 1/4 inch like a real man who drives a Miata. This is just the rear btw.
#909
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I noticed there is less room on in the front of my rear wheels than the back and it causes problems when I get into boost. I have replacement bushings going in the car but I'd still like to remedy the problem. If I don’t get anywhere after the bushings I’ll be moving my sub frame completely. Anyone have any luck solving this problem? Not that I suspect many will need to.
I was doing some looking around and it looks like it's a common problem..
I was doing some looking around and it looks like it's a common problem..
#915
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Last night I spent some time finishing up some loose ends. Boost control, mounting my new battery and replacing the center console with my gauges and some ABS plastic.
My GT30R does not have a boost reference port on it so I welded a vibrant bung to the charge pipe.
Mounted my battery - I ended up cutting the factory bracket up and re welding the tabs to fit the battery. The bottom tray I made out of aluminum.
And here is a pic of the tire fitment.
My GT30R does not have a boost reference port on it so I welded a vibrant bung to the charge pipe.
Mounted my battery - I ended up cutting the factory bracket up and re welding the tabs to fit the battery. The bottom tray I made out of aluminum.
And here is a pic of the tire fitment.
#916
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Your build is progressing as awesome as usual. Good thing there is no port on the turbo. Where did you place the bung? It's better to measure boost right before the throttle body.
Joe posted an entertaining thread about it.
https://www.miataturbo.net/diy-turbo...eed-ebc-47532/
Joe posted an entertaining thread about it.
https://www.miataturbo.net/diy-turbo...eed-ebc-47532/
#918
Looking good.
Any clue how well the DART DC-2 coating compares to Techline Black Satin?
Retail Packaged, Exhaust System Coatings
Any clue how well the DART DC-2 coating compares to Techline Black Satin?
Retail Packaged, Exhaust System Coatings
#919
Looking good.
Any clue how well the DART DC-2 coating compares to Techline Black Satin?
Retail Packaged, Exhaust System Coatings
Any clue how well the DART DC-2 coating compares to Techline Black Satin?
Retail Packaged, Exhaust System Coatings
And as a note, matte black is the worst possible color to paint a header, since it is almost the best emitter of thermal radiation, white would be much better as would chrome.