Chiburbian

iTrader: (1)

Dyno thread: https://www.miataturbo.net/dynos-tim...10lbish-78577/

Not sure if this will work, but the dyno guys posted the vid...
https://www.facebook.com/#!/photo.ph...type=2&theater

Home13oy75

Nice numbers - especially the TQ! Did you just pay for dyno time and tune yourself?

Mobius

iTrader: (2)

RE: the cooling - seal up the leaks. What fans came with the radiator? If you are having trouble around town and/or at autocross, consider putting in a couple of mighty Spal fans. I can give you the part numbers of the two that came with my FM rad if you want. I only run the single bigger of the two, and it's plenty to keep my coolant temps under control.

Nice numbers.

Chiburbian

iTrader: (1)

Feel free to post the part numbers for the spal fans. I don't plan on upgrading right away, but I am open to upgrading in the future. I am using the Mishimoto fans that came stock on the mishmoto fan shroud...

I have yet to see anything that I consider "trouble" in regards to temps but they are higher than they should be. I definately need ducting.

My most pressing issue right now is that my crank pulley was wobbling. I don't recall using a torque wrench to finish the job the last time I did my timing belt (I took the pulley and boss off and on a bunch of times). I am hoping that I didn't do too much damage and/or I can fix it with the loc-tite trick and retorque it up. I will post pics when I get the crank bolt off tonight.

The main reason I didn't do it "right" was that I didn't realize the pulley separated from the "hub" for a lack of a better word. It is rusted on there so good that it won't come off. I plan on soaking it with break-free and whacking it when it's off of the car but in the engine bay there isn't enough space to swing a hammer (IMO) without risking hurting something.

flying_solo

iTrader: (5)

Been there done that and broke down and had to reattach in the dark on the side if the road.

Chiburbian

iTrader: (1)

What came off?

flying_solo

iTrader: (5)

Like you I didn't know they were two separate parts as they were rusted together. I didn't remember to out the four bolts for the pulley on and the pulley and timing wheel came off.

The other time I was a moron and broke down was when I did the same thing on my intake cam after a timing belt job that killed my cam. I'm a slow learner when it comes to torquing my bolts eh?

Chiburbian

iTrader: (1)

Well, crank key was munched. Luckily I have a spare set of components off of the motor I bought a couple months back. I am swapping over everything except the crank itself.

I will take pictures tomorrow after work. I was planning on doing the loctite fix tonight but I figured it wasn't a good idea to do it when I was in a hurry and tired.

flying_solo

iTrader: (5)

Were you at WCMC? I didn't think to look for you till second session, but I assume this had you down for the count?

It turned out to be a chilly day. They did squeeze in 12 runs though and the cars loved the cold.

Chiburbian

iTrader: (1)

I didn't get the car done in time for autocross. I finished up reassembling everything else Saturday afternoon and this (Sunday) morning around six I will be going outside and seeing if it starts. I have to burp my coolant though because I chose to remove the upper radiator hose. I am also switching to a much lighter coolant mix.

If all goes well I will be doing the WCMC presidents tour with my Father as I don't get to enough time with him.

Chiburbian

iTrader: (1)

Aaand it won't start.

I got it idling a few times at about 400rpm but it wouldn't go any higher than that. I pulled the valve cover and I counted 19 teeth and all my timing marks line up. I am going loosen and reset the tensioner after breakfast. I feel like 18psi (Vlad) right now.

Scrambles

iTrader: (7)

So it's been a week - did you get it figured out?

I have a package from Emilio set to arrive next week and I'm ready for a River Run whenever you are...

Chiburbian

iTrader: (1)

Oh yeah, I got it figured out later that day. I thought I posted an update. Basically I had the crank trigger on backwards.

I will update the "Cruise" thread soon.

flying_solo

iTrader: (5)

What is this cruise we speak of? I'm breaking in my FD's engine and need excuses to put miles on. I can finally get into light boost as well.

Chiburbian

iTrader: (1)

I re-did the calculations in regards to dead time and voltage compensation today. Here is my result @ 60psi. (NB2)



While going through my settings I found this new page I haven't seen before.



Should I change my "Static Rail Differential Pressure" to 60psi and pressure regulation to "fixed pressure"?

Chiburbian

iTrader: (1)

"Fixed pressure" didn't work out. Basically it was creating a new compensation called fuel pressure compensation that was pulling fuel under most low load conditions.

I switched it back to "vac referenced" just before I got home so I will update if I learn anything new.

Chiburbian

iTrader: (1)

Everything seemed to be working very well until yesterday...

It was threatening rain so I left the top up and tried driving home with the A/C on. My solid car became a tempermental fucktard.

Whereas previously my IDLE PWM to maintain 1k RPM was about 37% with fans, headlights, and even A/C, I was having problems with the car dying unless idle PWM was 58%. (that same PWM value on my drive to work this morning sans A/C and with much lower temperatures caused my RPMs to be about 2,500)

Battery voltage indicated in my logs hovered somewhere around 11.8 until I got to about 3k rpms at which point my indicated voltage would hover around 14v.

Also as a symptom, it seems that my 3,500rpm and lower and 65kpa and lower cells on my VE table seem to be ping-ponging up and down every time I drive. My high RPM high load cells never change more than a tenth. Low RPM low load cells require a higher VE number to hit the same pulse width which may explain it but I still am confused as to why.

Here are a couple givens in my car:

NB alternator controlled by stock ECU (for now).

Battery is getting a little old perhaps.

When Megasquirt indicates 14.4v, the voltage indicated on my DC/AC inverter reads 13.6-13.8v.

My ideas on what is causing this are:
Alternator
Battery
Grounds

Has anyone messed around with the new Alternator control in the latest alphas/betas?



I have an NB alternator control circuit that I never installed. Am I better off using the hardware board or messing around with software? Do I have to make any modifications to the board in order to do it with software? Anyone have any fast and easy settings for an NB?

Is the best way to test the battery just to take it to an auto parts store? What is your favorite replacement battery?

Next, grounds. I see that most of the stuff that seems to be contributing to my issues is grounded at the same point, JC-02. Anyone have any first hand idea of where to find it? I hear it may be UNDER the headlight.



Any other ideas? I will upload some logs when I can isolate stuff that is interesting. Sorry for the wall of text. Any questions I can answer?

Chiburbian

iTrader: (1)

Well, I never checked the grounds or set up alternator control... The car works well enough for now so I have been just enjoying it for the most part.

Today I borrowed a code scanner to see what the stock ECU sees and saw 11 codes. I goofed up writing down two of them but here is what I know for sure:

P0010 - Cam Position actuator circuit malfunction. I imagine that this is because the cam position sensor is controlled by the Megasquirt and the stock ECU sees an open.
P0011 - Cam over advanced. The question here is, am I truly too far advanced or is it just comparing my advance to what IT thinks I should be advancing to?
P0032 - Oxygen Sensor 1 High Voltage
P0038 - Oxygen Sensor 2 High Voltage
P0102 - MAF Low input Voltage (no surprise, it's not hooked up)
P0303 - Cyl 3 misfire. I wonder if this is an older code or new. I cleared them out I will see what happens over the next couple days. How does the engine notice this? Cam, knock?
P0480 - Cooling Fan Control Circuit 1. I wonder if it just sees the "open" on the cooling fan circuit. Can just wiring in a resistor that matches the impedance of the relay fix this you think?
P0505 - Idle Control Circuit malfunction
P0507 - Idle Control Circuit RPM high
??

I wonder how many of these can be fixed and how many can be faked or appeased.

Chiburbian

iTrader: (1)

In my continuing "iterative" process, I decided to check my VTCS and Purge control.

I started by trying to create an indicator on my dashboard. I first tried creating an alias for the signals that would control the purge control and VTCS, but that didn't do it, so I posted on msextra.com and found that I had to open "Project Properties" and change PORT_STATUS to "Enable".

Then, I created a simple On/Off indicator on my dashboard.

(PA4 means Port A4 in plain language)

On state: VTCS Tumble
Off State: VTCS Flow

Then I set my Programmable On/Offs in "Advanced Settings" for the corresponding port to:

Power On Value: ON
Active Value: OFF
Active when:
RPM > 1700 ; H200
OR
Coolant > 140 ; H9

Does this look right?

I did the same basic thing for purge control but when XX < vacuum < XX. I forget the numbers. I think its between 60 and 80.

If I retain the charcoal cannister, how long would it take you think to "saturate" it? The reason I ask is I'd like to do some tests on wither or not it is effecting my tune but I don't want to soak the darn thing too bad if I forget to turn it back on.

Chiburbian

iTrader: (1)

Decided to do the alternator control mod today.

The image below is from VVT (MS3x Pin 27) though a 1k ohm resistor to the 5v pad on the under side of the expander board. Did I do it right?