RacePak IQ3 Display Install ***PIC HEAVY***
These dashes are very cool pieces. They read values from the CAN Network of most Aftermarket and OEM (OBD-II) ECUs and then display those values on user-configured pages.
Specifically I am using a Haltech branded RacePak IQ3 Display dash for this project.
I won't bother to cover cluster removal/reinstallation because there are already threads out there for that.
I also found disassembly pretty straight forward so there are no pictures to go along with that. I just started removing screws.
What I ended up with was a black gauge trim w/clear plastic cover glued on and the white back shell that housed the gauges and lights.
The first step was to gut the plastic structure from the white back shell. I found a dremel could do this but made one hell of a mess.
I ended up mostly using a razor knife and pliers to score and snap the remaining bits out of the shell.
I cut a rectangular hole in the back of the shell to make clearance for the connectors on the back of the RacePak display and I covered all of the un-needed holes with aluminum HVAC tape because it sticks to anything and conforms so well.
My plan was to sandwich a laser-cut panel between the front black plastic trim and the white back shell so I used a razor-knife to recess the lip of the back shell to give the sandwich panel clearance.
Here is a shot of test fitting the sandwich panel that was laser cut by a friend using a file I made. Notice the holes for the turn signals.
I omitted all of the dummy lights because they are unnecessary. The values displayed on the RacePak like coolant temp, oil pressure and fuel pressure will be programmed with their own warning lights.
I left the high-beam indicator out as well because I felt it wouldn't be missed.
The RacePak dash can display fuel level, but it would need to read the value from either the Haltech ECU or from a VNet module.
I saw this as a waste of money to buy a VNet module just for fuel level, and a waste of an AVI on the ECU so I left the factory fuel level gauge in the cluster.
Now black it out!
I installed a blue LED bulb in the fuel gauge's factory lighting location and built a shield to keep the light from hotspotting:
Wiring the turn signals.
Semi assembled product on the bench.
Wire **** on the back of the cluster.
As you can see above, I used a DTM12 connector on the cluster to make removal and installation easier on myself.
This meant I had to snip the factory cluster connectors and wire some of the OEM wires to the chassis side of the DTM12 connector.
This included a factory 12v supply, ground, turn signals, illumination circuit and fuel level signal.
Installed the cluster temporarily to check function and connections.
Now to work on the front clear cover and black gauge trim.
First, I had to submerge the assembly in boiling water to weaken the adhesive used to attach the clear cover to the black trim piece.
I found this method in another post and not sure how it works but my hypothesis is that the two plastics expand and contract at different rates and this caused stress fractures where they were joined together and made them much easier to pry apart.
Once I had these two pieces apart I put the clear cover to the side and started on the black trim piece.
I cut with a dremel until the old gauge circles were gone and then sanded and smoothed until there was a nice edge.
I then hit the inside of the trim piece with some flat black to even out the color.
The clear plastic on my donor cluster had seen better days and was in need of a polish. So I broke out some 3 stage plastic polish kit and started polishing.
I Also added a rubber hole plug to the hole that the tripometer reset stalk used to pass through.
I knew from reading numerous threads that re-adhering this clear plastic to the black plastic couldn't be done with many glues because it would fog so I opted for some 3M "Strip-Calk"
This is a butyl rubber adhesive that never really cures but is sag resistant. It is very similar to the black gunk that holds the vapor barriers to the door (the translucent plastic behind your door cards)
Once I had all of my parts ready to re-assemble I sat down at the table inside. Wearing nitrile gloves and using q-tips and isopropyl alcohol I gave everything a really good clean and dusting before reassembly
And here it is installed.
During this time, I added three sensors to replace some of the gauges I was losing.
- Vehicle Speed
- Oil Pressure
- Fuel Pressure
Since the NA6 uses a cable drive speedometer, it's vehicle speed sensor is in the speedometer. Since I was not using the factory speedometer I needed a way to rob that signal for the ECU to see.
What I ended up doing was hacking up the donor cluster's speedometer and mounting it in a project box, then attaching that box to the dash support just behind the cluster. Then I ran wires to the ECU for the signal.
However, that does not seem to be working as well as I had hoped. My first and second calibration tries resulted in a PPM of 2million+ and the speed fluctuates quite a bit while driving.
I am going to give the NB transmission sensor a try soon and hopefully that turns out better.
The pressure sensors were much easier.
Fuel pressure is tapped into the fuel supply line and oil pressure is plumbed to the factory oil pressure location next to the oil filter.