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I think the smaller one will probably max out in the 230-250whp range. That is mostly going off what sonofthehill experienced though. One day I will actually have time to work on my car some and go out and see where the turbo maxes out at.
I think the smaller one will probably max out in the 230-250whp range. That is mostly going off what sonofthehill experienced though. One day I will actually have time to work on my car some and go out and see where the turbo maxes out at.
I'm 100% certain I']m gonna beat you to the punch. I thought it would be this week - but its more likely going to be this coming monday / tuesday. Ran into a few problems at the dyno - while i was loading the car onto the trailer i bent some intercooler piping and ripped my IAT sensor wires apart. Also the god dam timing cover behind the sprockets keeps rubbing on the sprockets and making a **** ton of noise. The shop has taken care of the piping and wiring and all thats left is the cover and tuning.
Plan is to have the shop do 2 tunes, one for the smaller turbo currently on the car and another for this random turbo i found - i need to port it first.
If the rear turbine is the same specs of the smaller turbo you shouldn't need to port the housing. Just use the already ported housing you have, and swap the chra over.
It'd be super sweet if you could pull the housings off and measure the wheels, Your numbers don't match, it's a .50 AR compressor housing and probably a .63ar turbine housing. I'm curious if it has a full size t04b/t04e wheel.
If the rear turbine is the same specs of the smaller turbo you shouldn't need to port the housing. Just use the already ported housing you have, and swap the chra over.
ill have to verify but I think I could probably swap the housing with the old .60 trim that **** the bed. I also want to see if the compressor housings will fit.
Originally Posted by deezums
It'd be super sweet if you could pull the housings off and measure the wheels, Your numbers don't match, it's a .50 AR compressor housing and probably a .63ar turbine housing. I'm curious if it has a full size t04b/t04e wheel.
sure, going to borrow a caliper from my friend because I am curious as well
old 60 trim that died both blades damaged chra 60 trim rear turbine of 60 trim front of 60 trim - not sure if i was a little off on this or if it was damaged that much. 50 trim turbo 50 trim turbo both housings - the old housing that i ported on the 60 trim did fit the 50. The reverse was not true. 50 trim turbo rear
Soo.. i don't need to port anymore with the housing from the 60 trim.
Smaller turbo is currently on the car waiting to be tuned.. ar is .48 on that so this is a bit bigger -
when i had the 60 trim on with .63 ar the car spooled at about 4k.
I'm guessing i'll see some similar results with the 50 trim.
ll be heading back to the shop once they finish tuning the smaller turbo so i can install the 50 trim and tune that right after.
Last edited by Colipto; 12-04-2016 at 09:08 PM.
Reason: add inf
That is a 43 trim t04e, not a 50 trim. A 50 trim compressor would measure 53.9mm and 76.2mm. Ebay liesss
Without knowing the turbine inducer measurement it's hard to say what turbine wheel it has, but I bet it's a honkin' yuge 77 trim. I think that means "stage 3" T3 garrett turbine. It's very much a diesel turbo. If you can, I would swap the turbine wheel and shaft from the original MKturbo over onto that one. If the nut on the turbine has balance marks and the new 43 trim compressor has balance marks, it's a swap and go deal. Then, use the mkturbo turbine housing.
Just FYI, you can't swap turbine housings unless the wheel trim is identical, wheel trim and housing a/r are different things. Baaad, verybad for spool. If one fits one, but the other don't fit the one that means they are not swappable.
That is a 43 trim t04e, not a 50 trim. A 50 trim compressor would measure 53.9mm and 76.2mm. Ebay liesss
Without knowing the turbine inducer measurement it's hard to say what turbine wheel it has, but I bet it's a honkin' yuge 77 trim. I think that means "stage 3" T3 garrett turbine. It's very much a diesel turbo. If you can, I would swap the turbine wheel and shaft from the original MKturbo over onto that one. If the nut on the turbine has balance marks and the new 43 trim compressor has balance marks, it's a swap and go deal. Then, use the mkturbo turbine housing.
Just FYI, you can't swap turbine housings unless the wheel trim is identical, wheel trim and housing a/r are different things. Baaad, verybad for spool. If one fits one, but the other don't fit the one that means they are not swappable.
Okay guess I am porting then. Thanks
What would this swap that you're talking about accomplish exactly?
Smaller turbine wheel means more spool. But really, I'd suggest swapping the turbine wheel to alleviate some of the mismatch on the wheels on that turbo.
It's a strange wheel combo, pretty mismatched and why I called it diesel turbo. It's meant for high exhaust flow at lower relative air pressures, something you'd expect off a low revving, constant state diesel.
The 50 trim t3 has a flawless surge line for max spool, you need around 7-10lb/min at a 2.0 pressure ratio ASAP. You can see that's on the map for the 50 trim, nowhere near on the monster t04e means it'll spool like butt. Putting a smaller turbine wheel behind it and hopefully increasing wheel speed at all rpms is about the only chance the thing has IMO.
Smaller turbine wheel means more spool. But really, I'd suggest swapping the turbine wheel to alleviate some of the mismatch on the wheels on that turbo.
It's a strange wheel combo, pretty mismatched and why I called it diesel turbo. It's meant for high exhaust flow at lower relative air pressures, something you'd expect off a low revving, constant state diesel.
The 50 trim t3 has a flawless surge line for max spool, you need around 7-10lb/min at a 2.0 pressure ratio ASAP. You can see that's on the map for the 50 trim, nowhere near on the monster t04e means it'll spool like butt. Putting a smaller turbine wheel behind it and hopefully increasing wheel speed at all rpms is about the only chance the thing has IMO.
I see. I am starting to pick up how to read the compressor maps now so thanks for that.
I think at this point my best option is to return the turbo and find something that will fit my goals better. I am thinking re-order that 60 trim i had that was measured above? I'm going to decide probably between
0.63 AR Exhaust Housing
0.42 A/R Compressor House
or
0.63 AR Exhaust Housing
0.60 A/R Compressor Housing (same that i had above)
I'm going to do some research today and figure out what to do.. at this point though i really don't want to experiment with this turbo from what you've explained and from the compressor maps - it will not be very efficient and will dip into the choke zone
Its a new year... guess its time to pick this back up. I actually have forgotten on a few occasions that i own a Miata.
I just heard back from the shop regarding my car and apparently the pistons are hitting the valves. I am hoping damage is minimized / no damage. The head / deck was resurfaced a few times which im guessing messed with the clearances- I'm not 100% quite sure whats going on yet till i can get my hands on the car again which will probably be this week or the next.
With the pistons hitting valves - I'm Decided I'm going to be pulling the motor and replacing the pistons with lower comp again and give it another try.
Most likely I'm going to be doing all the work (including the engine build) this time to try to save money.
I hope to have the car up and running before my birthday next month - Feb 24th. That is my goal. Will be picking it up this weekend to start working.
Engine has been pulled over the weekend. My pistons and valves are fine - they are not hitting each other. My only guess at this point is that the valves that were replaced by the machine shop are the issue with the cylinder head.
I don't feel confident with the old head posted above so i went out and bought a VVT head locally. I just need to piece together what is missing and how to adapt it to my engine.
This is what it looks like. - it was sitting for a long time. Plan is to attempt to fix my current head and freshen up the VVT head i got once i figure out how everything gets connected.
9:5 comp supertechs piston cylinder 1 testing piston to valve clearance clay close up vvt head manifold
Are you going to do any refreshing to that head, or are you having a shop do anything to it?
I'm done with any shops that are not tuning shops. I've accumulated enough tools and knowledge at this point that i am confident rebuilding the head myself, most likely will do valve seals only and a quick diy resurface
I just did a head refresh for the first time. Here are my lessons learned:
1) Use a valve spring compressor tool like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009G...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
2) Use two Ice cube trays to keep each valve assembly sorted
3) get a telescoping magnet if you don't already have one
4) Clean the valves by: taping the tip, chucking them in a drill, and clean them on a bench grinder with a brass brush while spinning the drill so you don't get flat spots.
5) Use the small size suction cup valve lapping tool
6) measure your lifter shims after you lap the valves in.
7) get the VVT refurb kit from Miata Roadster
8) be damn careful pulling the torx screws holding the cover plate over the intake cam sprocket
9) don't open the VVT actuator thing on the intake sprocket unless you're a gambling man
10) make sure your valve springs go back in the right way down
11) use the Ziploc bags trick when putting the valve keepers back in
I had a local shop deck the head, so no advice there.
11-28-2016, 10:41 AM
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