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Old 10-13-2016, 07:07 PM   #41
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Uh, if the mechanic checked timing and it was way off, that implies there is spark. You have two ways of adjusting timing with a megasquirt: 1) dick with your CAS, or 2) use the timing wizard in tunerstudio.

As long as your heart isn't bad, there's always a surefire way to confirm you have spark...
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Old 10-14-2016, 10:39 AM   #42
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Does MS even see the teeth on the trigger wheel?
I had an issue when I first learned about miatas and without adjusting the pots on one of the boards, my car would never know when to spark. Though if you're getting a flash on that timing light, you must be in the ballpark.
If you where just cranking away then yea, it probably won't be flashing where it needs to. You need to set a fixed timing in MS for it to output at 10 BTDC otherwise it'll jump around.
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Old 10-14-2016, 12:03 PM   #43
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Car is up and running, drove it home at alternating rpms - stopped to get gas and noticed a coolant leak - by the time i got home there was a pool under my car from the begi reroute... Also looks like my timing cover and camshaft seals are leaking

going to try to fix it today.. working at the back of the head is going to be fun...
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Old 10-14-2016, 12:07 PM   #44
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Awesome getting the thing sorted. This is a fast build.
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Old 10-15-2016, 12:19 AM   #45
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Things are not fully sorted, but i am making it my goal to make it so..

Found some more of my **** ups..

My speedometer issue is simply it not being connected - there's not enough slack right now to get a connection to the back of the gauge cluster - I plan on getting this sorted before i put in the begi reroute again

RIP Heater hose, touching downpipe = nono


Pic of begi reroute leak - i did a very bad job clearly.

and the biggest **** up yet.




Yep.. i left a shop tower inside the head and it got stuck inside the thermostat - I am really glad i was leaking and had to go back in here.....I'm thinking im getting a new stat just incase.
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Old 10-15-2016, 01:50 AM   #46
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How the **** did that get all the way through.
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Old 10-15-2016, 03:45 AM   #47
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you're going to bend your copper heater pipe when you replace your heater hose. Buy a $5 swage tool from HF when you buy the replacement hose. If the pipe isn't perfectly round when you reattach the hose, it won't seal and coolant will shoot up under the dash.
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Old 10-15-2016, 03:11 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wackbards View Post
you're going to bend your copper heater pipe when you replace your heater hose. Buy a $5 swage tool from HF when you buy the replacement hose. If the pipe isn't perfectly round when you reattach the hose, it won't seal and coolant will shoot up under the dash.

This, and its fuking surprising the first time it happens. Luckily I had already removed the carpet. A set of 1/4" drive deep sockets also works for swedging.
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Old 10-16-2016, 03:49 PM   #49
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You guys are probably going to be like wtf?

But i had no choice.

I used the right stuff on both sides of the gaskets for the begi reroute kit.. i dont think it will be leaking anytime soon.

Working at the back of the head is actually not that difficult once you figure out the tricks... .. like remove the damn cover and get the coil pack out of the way. I had a fun time trying to take off the coil pack with the valve cover on.

Got the speedometer slack figured out - i tied it to the top of the tranny which is why it was disconnected.



OEM cam seals, Old ones leaked. as did the valve cover gasket - fel pro replacement for that one.

Also in this screenshot i ran into another broken bolt at the front blockoff - which was also leaking. Not fun...



New front thermostat from my old engine thank god i still have it around



Replacement is in and sealed with the right stuff just incase.



Same procedure as last time.. sealant on one side of the gasket - lined it up and added sealant on the other side of the gasket,

Sealant > Gasket > Sealant



and as for the downpipe issue with it burning.... zip tie fix anyone?... This is temp for now, planning on getting some heat shields in place.



Pic of snapped bolt.. which also I SNAPPED AN EASY OUT IN IT TOO! i tried drilling it out.. i tried everything.. this thing had to go.


and the easy out.... once it broke.. i knew i was fucked





At the moment.. my only issue is no boost! which im thinking i either messed with the wastegate preload too much or i ported too much on the turbo.. i will soon be finding out.
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Old 10-16-2016, 04:48 PM   #50
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Quote:
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you're going to bend your copper heater pipe when you replace your heater hose. Buy a $5 swage tool from HF when you buy the replacement hose. If the pipe isn't perfectly round when you reattach the hose, it won't seal and coolant will shoot up under the dash.
Much easier to use a razorblade and cut the old hoses off the heater core. Never, ever pull/twist on those hoses. They should be cut clean through and then peeled off.
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Old 10-16-2016, 06:01 PM   #51
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Man... this stupid wastegate flapper is staying caught open. I havn't wired it shut yet to confirm 100% but it definitely appears to be the issue.

Im throwing the bigger turbo back on.. it doesn't have shaft play and seems to be in decent condition. ( i thought i blew this one but idk about that anymore, spins freely.

I planned on buying another one of these but if it works.. then this all works out.
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Old 10-16-2016, 06:17 PM   #52
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Quote:
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Much easier to use a razorblade and cut the old hoses off the heater core. Never, ever pull/twist on those hoses. They should be cut clean through and then peeled off.
Yes, this is a good put. Also be careful not to stab the copper pipe if you do this. But also get a Swage tool, because you're going to bend it when you put the hose clamp back on. I recognize and appreciate your wrenching style, and I'm guessing that like me you have a lot of hammers. Heater core pipes don't like hammers.
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Old 10-16-2016, 10:19 PM   #53
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Well... i feel pathetic.. oil is leaking from the pan.... looks like im pulling the engine to reseal that..

i Switched to the bigger turbo, still not boost so clearly i have a leak somewhere.

FML first day of work tomorrow so this will most likely slow down.
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Old 10-16-2016, 10:34 PM   #54
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Get some of these:
4 Piece Nonmarring Scraper Set

Make sure you run the bead on the inside of the fastener holes. Make sure you run the bead on both the top & bottom of the baffle. Look at your old bead to see if it was located correctly.

Mostly, make sure it's stupid clean, degreased, and smooth before applying RTV.

Good luck
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Old 10-17-2016, 12:30 AM   #55
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Thanks, I"m working on obtaining a boost leak tester..

My goal is to get the car running perfectly by the end of the month.. Working like a slave even through the night if i have to.
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Old 10-19-2016, 11:08 PM   #56
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Got my boost leak tester.. i missed a clamp.. I am deff getting boost now but i am blowing other pipes off now lol.

I am also leaking from my oil drain from disassembling so much, will be fixing it this weekend hopefully.
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Old 10-20-2016, 10:26 AM   #57
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For the coolant line that the downpipe was touching. Did you bend back the metal hard line that goes under the intake manifold any? I use a BFH to beat it back a bit to get clearance there.
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Old 10-20-2016, 05:29 PM   #58
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For the coolant line that the downpipe was touching. Did you bend back the metal hard line that goes under the intake manifold any? I use a BFH to beat it back a bit to get clearance there.
I'm guessing you mean under the exhaust manifold - I actually haven't bent that metal hard line yet - I will be giving it a shot soon with a BFH, just a bit worried about bending it in the wrong place.
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Old 10-20-2016, 05:38 PM   #59
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I'm guessing you mean under the exhaust manifold - I actually haven't bent that metal hard line yet - I will be giving it a shot soon with a BFH, just a bit worried about bending it in the wrong place.

Yes the metal line under the exhaust manifold. What I do it thread one nut all the way onto the stud, then put the bracket over it and then another nut. I then use a big rubber mallet and beat the whole line back some. I believe I talk about it briefly in my install video. I tend to hit a bit away from the top of the line where the rubber hose goes on. The pipe bends pretty easy and you get more clearance that way.
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Old 10-20-2016, 05:43 PM   #60
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Yes the metal line under the exhaust manifold. What I do it thread one nut all the way onto the stud, then put the bracket over it and then another nut. I then use a big rubber mallet and beat the whole line back some. I believe I talk about it briefly in my install video. I tend to hit a bit away from the top of the line where the rubber hose goes on. The pipe bends pretty easy and you get more clearance that way.

I see, i might attempt this tonight / this weekend - the rubber mallet i have is not huge but it should do the job

Thanks again
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