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Okay, I believe i have figured out the issue - but i am not 100% sure yet because i have not ran the engine yet till later this week - But I believe the problem was very bad HLA tick. I swapped out some of the HLA's from my old head after cleaning the insides (lifter?) Some of them had some pretty excessive play. One of the cam caps were also installed incorrectly on the head ( my Fault 3 was where 4 should be and vice versa).
Bottom end is fine. No valves bent. Pistons to valve clearance is OK. Engine and tranny was dropped in last night. Just need fluids,and connections for the next attempt this week.
I also picked up another project / daily - It was a steal, i had to get it.
However I was able to successfully start the car and confirm everything working okay. the tick is much less noticeable now for sure - so bad lifter it seems was the cause.( i replaced the entire HLA and opened each one before re-assembling to ensure they were clean of the dirty grime oil in there)
My only concern with the car at this point is that the battery light is on - I'm not sure why at this point but i did confirm the connections on the alternator.]
I have an appoint on the feb 9th to get both my cars re-tuned at dynonh.com -
smokey as **** and blurry as hell, pardon the mess. its running!@!
Ive been having this roll bar sitting around since I purchased the black miata. It is a m1 hard core roll bar. I am glad to finally have it bolted in (thanks for the help levid)
Soo ran into some issues with the miata at the dyno, Started Leaning out - i need a fuel pump, probably going to go with tuners recommendation of AEM 50-1200, then re-tune for higher boost
I believe it is 16psi up at that range - I am not 100% sure because i have not dared to push it past 30% throttle using these snow tires i have on. We got 2 feet of snow yesterday, it was actually pretty fun driving the miata back in that - its a tank.
That dyno looks awesome. Glad you are enjoying it. Get in the bigger fuel pump, then up the boost some more. I want to see what the larger turbo maxes out at.
New fuel pump is in, my idle changed from a nice smooth idle to a now lumpy idle, probably cause the fuel pump is rated at 320, much bigger than the stock.
Also have not been able to experience the full craziness of the boost due to overboosting. planning on having that addressed during the re tune of the car probably sometime next week.
I've heard of people having to cut their fuel pump assembly, i did no such thing - I just reused as much of the old stuff as i could and so far so good. .,
AEM 320LPH I thought i had to pull my bar for a second. t
Edit: I found a oopsie. Left out the stock bracket / boot and put a zip tie. / fail - I'm going to go back and fix this, even though i don't have to - i was very high.
Last edited by Colipto; 02-16-2017 at 01:12 AM.
Reason: edit.
Well tuning session is Friday for more boosts!, i got a nice pull on the way and it felt pretty damn good, no overboosting, and the lumpy idle subsided, No idea how.
I dropped the car off to get the torsen diff in that i removed from my black parts car Miata that i parted in this thread. Pretty much just new bushings and fluid, i posted the bushings in the beginning of the build thread.
I would've done this job myself like i have with the majority of the work but i absolutely hate dealing with rusty bolts. Mine were very rusty.
Well tuning session is Friday for more boosts!, i got a nice pull on the way and it felt pretty damn good, no overboosting, and the lumpy idle subsided, No idea how.
I dropped the car off to get the torsen diff in that i removed from my black parts car Miata that i parted in this thread. Pretty much just new bushings and fluid, i posted the bushings in the beginning of the build thread.
I would've done this job myself like i have with the majority of the work but i absolutely hate dealing with rusty bolts. Mine were very rusty.
Having access to a torch and air tools really helps. I got lucky with mine to be honest. Enjoy the torsen and new tune. Looking forward to the dyno.
I have a fuel pump sitting here for use in my NB1 since I read you need to do this for the NB's, but i'm seeing folks getting to good numbers (aka 230 rwhp/200rwtq) on the stock pumps with FF's and I'm wondering if I actually need to put in a 255lphp pump in there or if it's just going to make my life miserable, especially since I was planning on installing it while still being NA.
Having access to a torch and air tools really helps. I got lucky with mine to be honest. Enjoy the torsen and new tune. Looking forward to the dyno.
I have a fuel pump sitting here for use in my NB1 since I read you need to do this for the NB's, but i'm seeing folks getting to good numbers (aka 230 rwhp/200rwtq) on the stock pumps with FF's and I'm wondering if I actually need to put in a 255lphp pump in there or if it's just going to make my life miserable, especially since I was planning on installing it while still being NA.
Thanks i am too!
based on my last dyno and info i've read on MT net (300hp) i would say you only need a pump if you're shooting for over 250 hp
based on my last dyno and info i've read on MT net (300hp) i would say you only need a pump if you're shooting for over 250 hp
I was going off this information here:
The 99-00 miata, with no return line, is noted as having fuel pressure drop towards redline from that factory. These miatas fuel at a constant 60psi of fuel regardless of pressure conditions inside the manifold, however it seems with forced induction, and even high powered N/A builds, the stock pump is not enough. The 255 HP model is the only model that has been noted to maintain the pressure at redline.
Yup, have it already. Got confused when I saw so many builds since I joined here that used the stock pump. I think they weren't NB1's I just didn't know it at the time. Thanks!
Yup, have it already. Got confused when I saw so many builds since I joined here that used the stock pump. I think they weren't NB1's I just didn't know it at the time. Thanks!
I'm unfortunately out of town this weekend, but I appreciate the offer. I'll touch base with you via pm after finals and we can exchange numbers and do miata things!
01-23-2017, 11:07 AM
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the tick is much less noticeable now for sure - so bad lifter it seems was the cause.( i replaced the entire HLA and opened each one before re-assembling to ensure they were clean of the dirty grime oil in there)
