Cordycord's epic tube frame build
#666
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Seriously, it doesn't seem to be a business model that any other company has followed--be it FFR or Superformance or anyone else, as it undercuts your core product.
#667
Reality is everyone can rig a frame body of some sort whatever is by taking parts off the donor miata or another car and making them fit or adding random sheet metal. Anyhow the body can be made however the frame on the other hand, you make that wrong you got issues.
Last edited by triple88a; 02-19-2013 at 04:40 PM. Reason: Wrong word. body, not frame.
#668
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My issue is that anything that goes on top of a Catfish frame becomes associated with the company. So if it's duct tape, cardboard and some chicken wire, that's a Catfish. Don't want that...
#672
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Oh, and I forgot about the stickers. Since there's no glass, they'll have to go directly on the body.
A couple of these:
Couple of these:
You've gotta have a big one of these on the hood:
And then this little fella on the fuel-filler:
I think they'll work swimmingly well on the pearlescent color-shifting (purple / orange) paint job.
A couple of these:
Couple of these:
You've gotta have a big one of these on the hood:
And then this little fella on the fuel-filler:
I think they'll work swimmingly well on the pearlescent color-shifting (purple / orange) paint job.
#673
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I visited a friend yesterday who is doing a "resto-mod" to his fastback Mustang. I told him that the Catfish kit price was $13,900, and he told me that he paid more than that for just his Mustang suspension. Add in the introductory offer, and I think it's a smokin' deal too.
I can imagine so. I drool over Detroit Speed's Aluma-Frame front and Quadra-Link rear suspension for Mustangs and they are $9500 before options and shipping.
#674
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racing aspirations » Suspension Geometry Calculator
When you're dealing with stock suspension, the best thing you can do is take out the spring and cycle the suspension, full droop to full compression. You can do the same w/o the shock too, as it can help determine the proper shock body size.
If you cycle the suspension, you can see where your shock is working in relation to the travel, if your shock piston is properly located in the stroke, and if you're having issues with premature bump (for example). You can also figure out the leverage ratio of the shock to the suspension travel, which helps in choosing the proper spring rates. But you know all this junk.
#675
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My kids love stickers Joe...I just don't love trying to explain some of the ones you've chosen...
Oh, and I forgot about the stickers. Since there's no glass, they'll have to go directly on the body.
A couple of these:
Couple of these:
You've gotta have a big one of these on the hood:
And then this little fella on the fuel-filler:
I think they'll work swimmingly well on the pearlescent color-shifting (purple / orange) paint job.
A couple of these:
Couple of these:
You've gotta have a big one of these on the hood:
And then this little fella on the fuel-filler:
I think they'll work swimmingly well on the pearlescent color-shifting (purple / orange) paint job.
#677
I saw that in my googling as well. I guess i need to dust off what i used for FSAE back in the day and see if i can get it to grumble to life.
I really need to model the springs in my car... I suspect that I'm coil binding. But i may just need softer front springs.
Exciting pricing on your car. I think at that price point your going to kill a lot of Miatas!
I really need to model the springs in my car... I suspect that I'm coil binding. But i may just need softer front springs.
Exciting pricing on your car. I think at that price point your going to kill a lot of Miatas!
Hi Brad, I've seen some freeware stuff that has been put out by FSAE teams. They make use of Excel and so forth, but it was essentially a computer copy of the "old school" graph paper with a scaled copy of the suspension. Here's one I found on a quick Google search:
racing aspirations » Suspension Geometry Calculator
When you're dealing with stock suspension, the best thing you can do is take out the spring and cycle the suspension, full droop to full compression. You can do the same w/o the shock too, as it can help determine the proper shock body size.
If you cycle the suspension, you can see where your shock is working in relation to the travel, if your shock piston is properly located in the stroke, and if you're having issues with premature bump (for example). You can also figure out the leverage ratio of the shock to the suspension travel, which helps in choosing the proper spring rates. But you know all this junk.
racing aspirations » Suspension Geometry Calculator
When you're dealing with stock suspension, the best thing you can do is take out the spring and cycle the suspension, full droop to full compression. You can do the same w/o the shock too, as it can help determine the proper shock body size.
If you cycle the suspension, you can see where your shock is working in relation to the travel, if your shock piston is properly located in the stroke, and if you're having issues with premature bump (for example). You can also figure out the leverage ratio of the shock to the suspension travel, which helps in choosing the proper spring rates. But you know all this junk.
#678
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I saw that in my googling as well. I guess i need to dust off what i used for FSAE back in the day and see if i can get it to grumble to life.
I really need to model the springs in my car... I suspect that I'm coil binding. But i may just need softer front springs.
Exciting pricing on your car. I think at that price point your going to kill a lot of Miatas!
I really need to model the springs in my car... I suspect that I'm coil binding. But i may just need softer front springs.
Exciting pricing on your car. I think at that price point your going to kill a lot of Miatas!
One other thing--and again I know you know this--a digital angle finder is a lifesaver. I used the Smart Level for years, and use a Sears model now. I also picked up a mini angle finder from Harbor Freight that's used for measuring table saw blades. It's good for tight spaces. The last, most-used tool is my "magic string", which is really just a ball of twine and a plumb bob. I've gotten sneaky with cheap-o laser pointers too, but you end up needing to make custom tools for those so old school is usually easier.
#679
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long time no post...
Well, in order to kick my own butt I've decided to sign up for the Miatas at Mazda Raceway event on April 27-28. And again--as usual--the car is scattered to four corners of SoCal. Before I can get it up to the track, it needs:
--passenger roll hoop
--amended driver roll hoop
--all the SEMA bodywork needs to have the production molds made from them, get pulled from the mold, cleaned up, repainted and re-assembled
--the changes to the car mean that the interior no longer fits. New interior, please.
--harnesses harnessed
--either stock seats will be used (per SEMA), or new seat brackets and new racing seats will need to be mounted
--a motor swap is in order. A freshened 1.6 short nose is waiting
--the 5 lug hubs aren't yet tested, and we're not taking any chances at the track. Therefore a full hub/rotor/wheel swap at all four corners is required. Anyone know a company that makes 15x9 and 15x10 rims with 4x100 spacing?
--other. There's always "other", and it usually takes more time than everything else. I know we'll need to allow for the new roll bars (bodywork holes), paint or wrap, gauges, and a dozen other small items.
Here's the event link:
http://www.miatasatmazdaraceway.com/
--and now my five year old wants to see what happens when I put a bunch of emoticons at the bottom of the page:
:va sh:
--passenger roll hoop
--amended driver roll hoop
--all the SEMA bodywork needs to have the production molds made from them, get pulled from the mold, cleaned up, repainted and re-assembled
--the changes to the car mean that the interior no longer fits. New interior, please.
--harnesses harnessed
--either stock seats will be used (per SEMA), or new seat brackets and new racing seats will need to be mounted
--a motor swap is in order. A freshened 1.6 short nose is waiting
--the 5 lug hubs aren't yet tested, and we're not taking any chances at the track. Therefore a full hub/rotor/wheel swap at all four corners is required. Anyone know a company that makes 15x9 and 15x10 rims with 4x100 spacing?
--other. There's always "other", and it usually takes more time than everything else. I know we'll need to allow for the new roll bars (bodywork holes), paint or wrap, gauges, and a dozen other small items.
Here's the event link:
http://www.miatasatmazdaraceway.com/
--and now my five year old wants to see what happens when I put a bunch of emoticons at the bottom of the page:
:va sh: