When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
correct, those are not provided with clutch kits. make sure to use oem with the washers
The last clutch I installed was a Clutchmasters 850 twin disk in my MS6 and it came with everything, so it didn't dawn on me that this 6puk would not come with the required hardware, and I have no clue where the oem ones went when i removed them, so meh, I am ordering them now so no biggie.
Finally got all of the proper fittings and line to do the oil/ coolant lines, not pictured is the coolant drain, my hands couldnt take anymore of pushing that DEI heat shielding onto the line, super tight fit. Here is a list of all the fittings and DEI heat shielding, the line was picked up from a local shop. I have to replace the one non-pushlock fitting, i misplaced the new one and found it after i finished without it. lol
Pressure plate bolts will be arriving today, so I will be able to get the clutch all finished and trans bolted up tonight. Also got word yesterday that it will be approx 3 weeks until I receive my new subframe from V8R.
I have a theory about these flame retardant hose sheaths. I like them and have a set to install myself.This is my concern though : If you seal bother ends of the sheath and then have a hose failure of some sort, will the pressure just build up until fluid comes spraying out in some random location? Is there any benefit to sealing the top (manifold area) and allowing this hypothetical leak to drain out in a more safe location?
On the other hand, a fire caused from a leak anywhere in the car, is going to be very difficult to put out.
Last edited by ryansmoneypit; 08-18-2016 at 08:04 AM.
I have a theory about these flame retardant hose sheaths. I like them and have a set to install myself.This is my concern though : If you seal bother ends of the sheath and then have a hose failure of some sort, will the pressure just build up until fluid comes spraying out in some random location? Is there any benefit to sealing the top (manifold area) and allowing this hypothetical leak to drain out in a more safe location?
On the other hand, a fire caused from a leak anywhere in the car, is going to be very difficult to put out.
I had considered this situation as well, however on mine i do not have the shielding snugged up against the fittings, and realistically they will serve as prevention to chaffing and causing a leak. I do not personally see any reason a leak would be caused mid line without chaffing against something and rubbing a hole into it, if a leak does present itself, it would likely be at the fitting, not mid line. Just my thoughts though
Clutch and MSM trans all bolted up. The plate that sites between the block and trans, given that mine is for NA and im using MSM trans, it appears that there is a whole that needs to be drilled through for a starter bolt, that is common correct? Not a huge deal in the slightest, just confirming that is normal lol
Looks so purrdy, I'll even overlook the dirt on the rear of the trans
lmao, thats getting cleaned off before it goes in. I still need to get a new shifter assembly which i thought i had the link/ info for but apparently i do not. Any suggestions? I think this is the one i was looking at- http://miataroadster.com/miataroadst...s/g-63251.aspx
There are no good alternatives. If you don't need the shifter right away, you can wait until they do another group buy on them. Generally they do the group buys about twice a year.
My current trans does not have a shifter or any of that. So i essentially need an entirely new (replaced) shifter assembly. If price is the only concern it may not be a huge deal. Obviously cheaper is better, and I do not need it right this moment so hopefully a group buy will pop up before i do.
MR Tall/Angled shifter is the "creme de la creme" of shifters - expensive but worth it so just go ahead and buy one and never lose sleep about whether or not you should have bought it instead of the cheaper one.
Many MSM 6-speeds have issues getting into reverse and tend to be a bit vague on the track (dropping into 2nd instead of 4th is REALLY bad; do that once and you end up over-focusing on shifting the rest of the day) - the SSK fixes these issues.
I initially had the short version but switched to the tall/angled version and prefer it (Bill tried to talk me into the tall/angled version when I initially bought the short one - I should have listened but thought the tall/angled one just looked odd).
08-12-2016, 11:23 AM
0
