Downmenteds NA8 E85 EFR7163
#161
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I do not have the new gasket yet, it's on the list-o-**** i need to get.
I got the parts back from the shop after work today, I couldn't wait to get home and put everything together! The downpipe was also cerakoted but not installed because I need a new v-band clamp for it, the full-rice one that came with the kit sucks, vibrant FTMFW! Now I just need to stop ******* off with the engine bay, finish the bondo/ paint and get this beauty installed!
(Disclaimer- parts not installed for final assembly, yes I know things are missing)
I got the parts back from the shop after work today, I couldn't wait to get home and put everything together! The downpipe was also cerakoted but not installed because I need a new v-band clamp for it, the full-rice one that came with the kit sucks, vibrant FTMFW! Now I just need to stop ******* off with the engine bay, finish the bondo/ paint and get this beauty installed!
(Disclaimer- parts not installed for final assembly, yes I know things are missing)
#163
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After you mentioned it in the other post, I looked at some images of the gold coating, and although I agree that it looks pretty legit, I don't personally feel like it would have matched up with everything on my particular setup I am extremely please with how the black/ blue turned out.
#165
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And yea, I cannot change the title of the thread, however if someone could that would be fantastic, "Downmenteds NA8 Fab9 E85 EFR7163"
#170
Awesome build thread! My build is somewhat similar as far as wiseco 10.5:1, e85 and boost. But I don't not have super baller efr setup. You will make tons of power. I'm around 325-350whp right now on a slow spooling, old turbonetics. Can't wait to see what yours makes! Check out my build thread https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...-thread-80256/
#171
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Thanks guys! I too am eager to see how everything turns out, unfortunately I have been dragging my feet a lot more than I would like to, but new GF and summertime mixed with my interest in the outdoor world means less Miata time.
#172
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So, on the topic of diffs, I have a lead on a good priced brand new OS GIken LSD. Which got Psyber and I talking about whether it would be worth while to switch to an MSM diff/ axles and get the MSM OS Giken LSD. So that poses the question I have, is it worth while to make that conversion? At what point would destroying axles become an issue?
Use stock pumpkin/ carrier from my NA with the OSG LSD, or get the MSM assembly/axles and get the OSG LSD for it?
Use stock pumpkin/ carrier from my NA with the OSG LSD, or get the MSM assembly/axles and get the OSG LSD for it?
#173
I think it's conjecture because we ultimately don't know at what power you'd be running.
but these threads have some discussion:
https://www.miataturbo.net/general-m...m-axles-86795/
https://www.miataturbo.net/suspensio...erences-66318/
My personal vote, get the OSGiken for a deal locally, build it, complete the car, worry about broken axles later. If in the event you're wrecking axles on the regular, then your options will be sell the OSgiken which is already set up to track enthusiasts on the forum here, and look into Getrag/Ford 8.8 OSGiken/MSM OSGiken
but these threads have some discussion:
https://www.miataturbo.net/general-m...m-axles-86795/
The mazdaspeed uses a trypoid type inner CV that is much more durable. also has bigger splines going into the Diff and the shafts themselves are bigger diameter. I suspect the mazdaspeed ones would be pretty bullet proof.
At over 300 ft-lbs to the rear wheels and frequently using sticky Hoosier rubber I've managed to twist one standard rear axle in two where it plugs into the outer CV and I consider the Inner CV's a wear Item. After about a year of use the ***** on the inner CV start to create deep divots in the housing I replace them when there starts to be just a huge amount of rotational slop. For the most part I would say the Inner CV's won't handle the load but but the failure mode is usually more like accelerated wear than catastrophic.
At over 300 ft-lbs to the rear wheels and frequently using sticky Hoosier rubber I've managed to twist one standard rear axle in two where it plugs into the outer CV and I consider the Inner CV's a wear Item. After about a year of use the ***** on the inner CV start to create deep divots in the housing I replace them when there starts to be just a huge amount of rotational slop. For the most part I would say the Inner CV's won't handle the load but but the failure mode is usually more like accelerated wear than catastrophic.
https://www.miataturbo.net/suspensio...erences-66318/
My personal vote, get the OSGiken for a deal locally, build it, complete the car, worry about broken axles later. If in the event you're wrecking axles on the regular, then your options will be sell the OSgiken which is already set up to track enthusiasts on the forum here, and look into Getrag/Ford 8.8 OSGiken/MSM OSGiken
#177
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Finally got the new v-band clamp for the downpipe and got it all lined up, and got a cherry picker to get the motor off the stand so I can bolt the clutch up and mate the trans finally. But go figure I have no clue where the pressure plate bolts are and the clutch kit didnt come with them. :/
Got a hard date now for painting the engine bay now that the bondo work is finished, the weekend of the 20th we will be getting started on the paint so hopefully I can move this along. After helping Psyber last weekend with all those beautiful tubular suspension components ive decided to splurge a bit and get myself a tubular front subframe which I am ordering today. Should be a nice addition to the project
She just looks so sad like this :(
Got a hard date now for painting the engine bay now that the bondo work is finished, the weekend of the 20th we will be getting started on the paint so hopefully I can move this along. After helping Psyber last weekend with all those beautiful tubular suspension components ive decided to splurge a bit and get myself a tubular front subframe which I am ordering today. Should be a nice addition to the project
She just looks so sad like this :(