hingstonwm

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, but good luck ever hooking that kind of HP up.

Crunching the numbers I may have this thing running in about 8 weeks

lightyear

Love the build. However i would have tried to reuse the ppf somehow. Do you think it's possible to fabricate mounts on the gearbox to use the ppf?

hingstonwm

iTrader: (2)

Thank you for the support!

No, the tail shaft housing is not designed to carry that kind of load. Another person tried incorporating the ppf onto the honda transmission and ended up with a broken tail shaft. A few of the V8 guys have used torque arms but I don't see the advantage in that design, you add weight and take up space under the car and still need an adjustable end link to adjust pinion angle.

I am pretty happy with my design as it allows me to dial in my pinion angle. Im sure there may be better designs out there, but mine is simple and gets the job done, there is no change in pinion angle under acceleration or braking. In time the heim joints will wear out and I will need to replace them. In the year and a half that my conversion has been complete I have only put 6k on the car I have noticed no play in the joints thus far.

This is off topic, but what are you running for rubber, in your icon picture?

lightyear

your design looks good, and it looks like it works. It is one of the reasons i am staying with the bp motor. If i change later, i will do something like your set up. i just always liked the idea of the ppf.

hingstonwm

iTrader: (2)

I do too, and guys with much more brain power than I have came up with he design. So, if I could have made it work I would have.

Trackwhore

Nice project. Very inspirational.

I really like the idea of the F20 in a Miata. I wonder as these swaps get more popular if there will be a kits produced similar to LSx RX7 swaps.

~220whp and a 9k redline with N/A reliability? Sign me up.

hingstonwm

iTrader: (2)

Here is a little update. I got the 3” downpipe past the k member and under the car. The pictures really don’t show the clearance very well. It is about3/4 of an inch all the way around.











Received my new radiator here are a few shots. The idea is that a narrow radiator will allow short direct IC charge pipes. Hopefully my cooling will be more than adequate. Only time will tell.

Pen2_the_penguin

iTrader: (4)

SEX!!! YES moar progress!! I cant wait to see this thing finished. Absolutely love it. IMO I believe this is better than the 2jz swap, since its not just an engine slapped in, its getting an exhaust sytem too, instead of a pipe out the hood. Still, IMO.

hingstonwm

iTrader: (2)

Thank you, when I decided on this swap it was important to me that the cars appearance remain stock. The JZ swap has run into wiring snags. Hopefully he gets it figured out, I'm sure he is frustrated with his lack of progress.

hingstonwm

iTrader: (2)

Small update, I have the plumbing finished on the new radiator; except for clamps.




Boxes, boxes, boxes it never seems to end.

hingstonwm

iTrader: (2)

Another small update. I had a little time tonight to work on my exhaust. There is not much room for a 3" exhaust under these cars, but I think I am getting it to fit decently. Welding 16 gauge pipe with a mig is a serious pain in the ***.







I am trying to decide where to exit the exhaust. I will be running a flowmaster supper 40 muffler. While the car was NA my exhaust exited in the stock location. But I am thinking with the turbo the straighter the exhaust the better. I already have a big bend where the exhaust passes under the transmission to get to the drivers side of the transmission tunnel. I was thinking about cutting an exit in the bumper and taking the exhaust straight out as opposed to having to bend the exhaust and take it out the stock location. What do you guys think?

I took another look at my radiator lines, and decided I don't care for them. I will be going to braided stainless on them at some point, but it will be after I get the car back on the road.


IC, piping, BOV, oil feed and drain, turbo coolant lines, and vent lines on the valve cover will be started on this coming weekend. Progress is a little slow right now and it is killing me. I am missing my toy right now

baron340

iTrader: (5)

As long as you're using 3" and mandrel bends, I seriously doubt that 2 more bends are going to matter enough to worry about it. Personally, I'd just run it out the stock location.

m2cupcar

iTrader: (5)

Have you run a flowmaster with a turbo before? I did it my car spooled way better with $25 Raptor (turbo style) muffler. I read in several places that what makes the flowmaster work (baffles design to counteract combustion pulses) is exactly what creates the back pressure for a turbocharged engine.

kotomile

iTrader: (24)

^ +1

I wouldn't want any baffles between a turbo's exhaust and the atmosphere.

buffon01

iTrader: (9)

Straight pipe that hoe, for flamethrower win.

johnmatt

iTrader: (8)

Good build. Can't wait to hear some miata vtec madness. I also agree on a straight flow muffler instead of the flowcrapper

hingstonwm

iTrader: (2)

Did a little research, and it seems like the flowmaster is junk for a turbo set up so I won't be going that route. I opened a thread in the DYI section looking for suggestions on mufflers.

Deatschwerks

This thread is relative to my interests!

Nice build, man. ...and nice drivetrain.

Have you thought about wrapping the down pipe, or at least getting it coated to help with the heat? It's going to be really hot in that area no matter what you do...but every little bit helps.

Oh...and we have injectors for the F20C.

m2cupcar

iTrader: (5)

regarding your transmission support- Why not flip the C channel so the open side faces up and open up the bore for the mounting bolts so they actually sandwich base plates on the support to the backer plates inside the car?

hingstonwm

iTrader: (2)

I think I understand what you are asking. The bolts suck everything together. The mounting plate with the nuts put tension on the floor when the bolts are pulled tight. The pad on the top of the tubes on the cross member contact the floor from the bottom and compress the sheet metal of the floor. I think you are asking why I didn't cut out the floor so the pads make direct contact with the bottom of the mounting plate. I really didn't think I needed to do that as everything is in compression when tightened. cutting access to the plates just creates a hole in the floor of the car as the plates are stitched in and not welded all the way around.