Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

Argh premature post.

So I think I am going to do this:

Have -10 AN fittings welded wherever the oil feed is. Not. I might use the factory baffle system and just enlarge the baffle inlet. I would like to return to the oil pan, but that would require a new tap on the pan and I just don't have the time/place to pull the motor out to have it welded on properly. I could JB weld though...

I am going to follow F20C Hingston's lead and go with AN screw on lines. I will also buy some proper AN wrenches. I have found many sets for cheap on ebay!

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I am very on the fence about what to do next. Should I go back and get high boost tuning, water injection tuning? OR switch to a GTX3076 (650 crank capable beast), an ARTech mani/dp, and some type of intake mani, and THEN tune.

To make my current setup reliable, I am looking at $150 for incolnel studs. Should I "part out" my hotside and upgrade? Or should I just spend a shitload on tuning with this current setup, and possibly more again later? Urgh

This: is very alluring:

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

Get your car tuned now. Save up and buy V-Bands later.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

you haven't gotten the car running right for even a week and you already want to upgrade to a bigger more expensive setup?

Do you just dislike driving your car or something? Do you just like dumping boatloads of cash into it?

Don't be an UrbanSoot. Get your **** running right at least before you consider an upgrade. Just my .02

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

So you guys say buy the incolnel studs I guess :|

Nagase

iTrader: (6)

How far below spec miata times are you running on 20 minute time trial sessions?

shlammed

iTrader: (8)

as far as the issue with the oil in the valve cover, what size were the lines coming from it to the catch can and from the ca to the intake?

most people undersize them.... do -12 x2 to keep LOW VELOCITY at the same volume going through the can....

this will prevent oil from literally being sucked out of the top end from those ports.

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

His car is a street car. I do not think he has any plans on taking it to the track.

Are your studs that are there now stretching?

How about you buy me an Absurdflow setup and I will just give you my inconel studs.

Nagase

iTrader: (6)

Exactly.

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

Yah maybe track or drorifto events just for fun but nothing serious.

The plain studs- whatever BEGI sells have gotten nasty and loose and I replaced them a bunch of times when I was at lower power. Resbond, sweet resbond helped them stay in but when I pulled them, they looked horrible. I do not track but I am not easy on my car.

Fine felluz I will just get some incolnel studs.

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

Small lines. Lot smaller than -12. 10mm

-12 is a full <edit> 3/4 inch. google says AN size = x/16th

shlammed

iTrader: (8)

Try changing to a much larger hose then.

i have heard of this before on high power cars...
for example, the stock hose from VC to intake on a 1jz is 3/4".

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

Yes. If you take a look at the "another catch can" thread, there may also be an issue with the amount of air the stock baffle system can flow. Above 18 or so psi it doesn't seem to flow enough. My plan is to enlarge the breather baffle opening somewhat and weld on a -12 fitting going to a VTA catch can. If that doesn't flow enough then I will do the PCV side with a -12 as well.

First gotta get the crankshaft connected to the timing belt though

Sean

iTrader: (12)

Just run 2 -12AN lines and be done with it. Take the valve cover off, take the breather passage plates off and open all the little opening an 1/8 to1/4 inch the passages look like a maze and if the air cant get out it sucks everything else in with it. I hate to say this but Honda's suffer from the same issue hence the reason any Honda you see running around with a decent size turbo kit it has 2 -12AN lines coming off the valve cover to keep every thing under control. There is one more option witch I have used in the past and it is a set of check valves that run on your breather hose and pcv hose they make a funny kinda whistling noise at idle but are very good at regulating preassure in the VC and CC.

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

OK will do- I noticed that there is a huge expensive catch can market for hondas- with stuff like 2 head breathers, 2 crank breathers, and 3 filters It all makes sense now

Slow_Sc3

just cap the line off the intake manifold and run it all to your catch can....

we installing everything this weekend? I can pick you up if you need a ride... DONT bring cash!

just drove my miata for the first time in snow it was amazing drifto action for the win!! just thought everyone should know.

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

**** yes it will be awesome. I can't say that I will bring moonshine but perhaps I can bring something to help incite destruction of those lovely nearby country roads.

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

A feeling everyone should experience is setting your timing perfectly, bolting everything up, and then realizing that the timing plate behind your harmonic damper is 90degrees off.

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

OK damper is on all happily. It spins with no wobble and it is amazing. Drove the car home tonight, hit some boost, the motor did not explode. I have some details on the damper but I will have to post them tomorrow.

Also took out AC and PS tonight. Many thanks to Sean and SloSC3.

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

For anyone that does a VVT timing belt, you have a 50pct chance of it being misaligned. Courtesy of Lars, this is how it should look:

Note that there is a little triangle on the inner hole that indicates proper alignment with the keyway.

Here is the checklist I learned last night for doing a VVT timing job.

Sean

iTrader: (12)

Yes note to anyone who has a Super Damper make sure you check to see if the plate is lined up correctly before you put it on just in case.