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Faelflora breaks his promise, time to part out car. GIT THE SAWZALL!

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Old 08-20-2012, 04:39 PM
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I say its weight because of the way its cracked. That crack could have been in any other direction but it cracked specifically on the inside where the turbos weight is pulling.
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Old 08-21-2012, 03:28 AM
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i started to read this thread. got done with the first page. thought, damn this will be good. saw that it was 176 pages......HOLY COW. 176 pages in any thread on this forum can cover every detail there is to cover in a miata it seems.
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Old 08-21-2012, 03:40 AM
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Originally Posted by wowmiata
i started to read this thread. got done with the first page. thought, damn this will be good. saw that it was 176 pages......HOLY COW. 176 pages in any thread on this forum can cover every detail there is to cover in a miata it seems.
every teary detail.

The collector is cracked too :(

I shipped it off to ARTech today.

I also shipped off my Hydra for upgrade to 2.7 to fix the repugnant hot start megafail injector dead time failflest
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Old 08-21-2012, 03:48 AM
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Oh and so what are your thoughts peoples about how to keep the turbo manfiold from disintegrating in another 1000 miles? What engineering wonderfulness does this need?

1 million gussets?
mega crane?
super attach exhaust with 1 million bouncy hangers? (downpipe already has flex joint)
RTV or something else spoogy?
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Old 08-21-2012, 03:50 AM
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Crane, AND downpipe support bracket.
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Old 08-21-2012, 04:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Pen2_the_penguin
Crane, AND downpipe support bracket.

And me sexing up that penguin tomorrow when i land in reno in my skirt and thigh highs
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Old 08-21-2012, 06:15 AM
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Gussets, built on bracing, send it out to be stress relieved. I realize parts of it get hot enough when the car is running to stress relieve parts of it, but get the whole thing stress relived to be extra sure. Then I'd see if you can fashion a way to bolt the turbo the the spot the AC bolts to and put a bracket between the downpipe and the tranny. Make sure that **** doesnt break.
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Old 08-21-2012, 09:54 AM
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I'm not a welding engineer, nor necessarily a welding expert but I do deal with welding specifications from time to time. That said, I'd be leary of weld's that fail either in the weld (like the other guy showed) or in the HAZ (as Fael's has shown).

Regardless of the application, thermal cycles, stresses, etc. etc. etc. a good weld (at least by our specs) is stronger than the base material. Stronger in static strength, and stronger in fatigue strength.

Now, I don't know Abe and I don't know his work outside of pictures I've seen here so I can't pass judgement. However, like I said before, I'd be worried about weld failures like these.

I'm not saying that you shouldn't brace/support the turbo better, I'm just saying these welds woulnd't meet our weld quality specs...
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Old 08-21-2012, 10:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Efini~FC3S
I'm not a welding engineer, nor necessarily a welding expert but I do deal with welding specifications from time to time. That said, I'd be leary of weld's that fail either in the weld (like the other guy showed) or in the HAZ (as Fael's has shown).

Regardless of the application, thermal cycles, stresses, etc. etc. etc. a good weld (at least by our specs) is stronger than the base material. Stronger in static strength, and stronger in fatigue strength.

Now, I don't know Abe and I don't know his work outside of pictures I've seen here so I can't pass judgement. However, like I said before, I'd be worried about weld failures like these.

I'm not saying that you shouldn't brace/support the turbo better, I'm just saying these welds woulnd't meet our weld quality specs...
I know you can do that with normal steel, our 4130 racecar chassis, once stress relieved, should have been stronger in the weld joint than the tubes because of the filler rod we used. I have no idea if there are filler rod options like that for stainless.
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Old 08-21-2012, 10:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Faeflora
Oh and so what are your thoughts peoples about how to keep the turbo manfiold from disintegrating in another 1000 miles? What engineering wonderfulness does this need?
My suggested fix is a smaller turbo.
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Old 08-21-2012, 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Leafy
I know you can do that with normal steel, our 4130 racecar chassis, once stress relieved, should have been stronger in the weld joint than the tubes because of the filler rod we used. I have no idea if there are filler rod options like that for stainless.
It is mild not stainless.
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Old 08-21-2012, 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Leafy
I know you can do that with normal steel, our 4130 racecar chassis, once stress relieved, should have been stronger in the weld joint than the tubes because of the filler rod we used. I have no idea if there are filler rod options like that for stainless.
Regardless of the base material, whether it be mild steel, stainless, aluminum, copper, inconel, etc.; the ideal weld will be stronger than the base material and the HAZ will also ideally be as strong as the base material. The reality is that is difficult to achieve but not impossible if the correct filler material is used, the welder/weldor do their job, and any necessary post processing is done.
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Old 08-21-2012, 01:27 PM
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Also perhaps a sliced 45 degree or whatever wedge on each side of where the flange meets the pipe as well as bracing to try to help with the weight.

Sorry fae your pics were too close so i had to use another pic to show it clearer.

Attached Thumbnails Faelflora breaks his promise, time to part out car. GIT THE SAWZALL!-52555-faelflora-breaks-his-promise-break-no-more-parts-he-breaks-eddy-brakes-p10100042-1-jpg.jpg  
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Old 08-21-2012, 01:30 PM
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^So a gusset.

Efini, sounds like you guys put a heck of a lot more engineering, forethought, and over all workmanship into your work than most automotive aftermarket parts.
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Old 08-21-2012, 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Leafy
Efini, sounds like you guys but a heck of a lot more engineering, forethought, and over all workmanship into your work than most automotive aftermarket parts.
Because racecar.

No, I am pretty sure he is literally dealing with professional level roadrace cars.
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Old 08-21-2012, 01:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Efini~FC3S
Regardless of the base material, whether it be mild steel, stainless, aluminum, copper, inconel, etc.; the ideal weld will be stronger than the base material and the HAZ will also ideally be as strong as the base material. The reality is that is difficult to achieve but not impossible if the correct filler material is used, the welder/weldor do their job, and any necessary post processing is done.


Sooo what could have gone wrong with my welds?
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Old 08-21-2012, 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Faeflora
Sooo what could have gone wrong with my welds?
They are not ABSURD!
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Old 08-21-2012, 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by shuiend
They are not ABSURD!
Attached Thumbnails Faelflora breaks his promise, time to part out car. GIT THE SAWZALL!-rsz_1rsz_happy_i_see_what_you_did_there_clean_l-s375x343-342274.png  
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Old 08-22-2012, 12:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Faeflora
Oh and so what are your thoughts peoples about how to keep the turbo manfiold from disintegrating in another 1000 miles? What engineering wonderfulness does this need?

1 million gussets?
mega crane?
super attach exhaust with 1 million bouncy hangers? (downpipe already has flex joint)
RTV or something else spoogy?
ALLOFIT requires an inconel manifold!
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Old 08-22-2012, 10:26 AM
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