Faelflora breaks his promise to break no more parts. He breaks eddy brakes. - Page 29 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 02-23-2011, 10:21 AM   #561
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Quote:
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That downpipe evac line is what I am eventually going to do. Good job there
^^^This If for nothing more than to remove the fumes that I get in the cockpit after installing the breather can.
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Old 02-23-2011, 10:41 AM   #562
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Originally Posted by Faeflora View Post
Also got my slashcut welded into the pipe. With the check valve, that ****** is unreasonably large. It must have been designed with 600 cubic foot domestic engine bays in mind. Now I just gotta figure out how to assemble the hose to my -12 fitting, which, by the way, would make a superb marijuana bowl for those so inclined (I'm not).

No room to put that pipe at a shallower angle?

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It has about 20 to 30 thousands in and out and 5 to 10 up and down.
That seems like a bunch to me.
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Old 02-23-2011, 12:35 PM   #563
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The pipe has to be at a 45 degree angle for the venturi effect to work.

I could have hacked it off to make it shorter but there's plenty of room above the downpipe right there-- next to the bellhousing.

Later tonight we will see if my unrestricted oil fitting makes my turbo happy.

If so, tomorrow I will.. get tuned!
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Old 02-23-2011, 01:04 PM   #564
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Nice. In for massive Faeflora epic curse word fest tomorrow lol
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Old 02-23-2011, 01:10 PM   #565
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Haha lol damn it
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Old 02-23-2011, 01:32 PM   #566
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Hahaha lol that would be such a true statement but this is an upgrade and not a throw together patch. Faeflora I hope your turbo works if not time for a bigger one.lol
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Old 02-23-2011, 02:49 PM   #567
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Let us know how many inches of vacuum its able to pull at idle and WOT. Mechanical vacuum pumps normally pull 12-15 inches IIRC

Last edited by chpmnsws6; 02-23-2011 at 11:01 PM.
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Old 02-23-2011, 04:08 PM   #568
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Prob like zero more. There's not much gas volume or velocity at 1000rpm.


In decel I see around 25mmhg or inches. I will see if vacuum pulled in decel changes.
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Old 02-23-2011, 04:16 PM   #569
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25? I usually see 16 on decel.
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Old 02-23-2011, 04:22 PM   #570
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Faeflora View Post

Also got my slashcut welded into the pipe. With the check valve, that ****** is unreasonably large. It must have been designed with 600 cubic foot domestic engine bays in mind. Now I just gotta figure out how to assemble the hose to my -12 fitting, which, by the way, would make a superb marijuana bowl for those so inclined (I'm not).

I'm thinking of welding steel AN fitting to the hose end of the check valve. Looks like thin metal so it will be a delicate job with my tig welding. I hate pushing on hoses and fiddling with hose clamps especially if you have to work on it later down the road.

FWIW the Moroso check valve I got from Summit is defective. I can blow through it both directions. I went to the Napa store and found none of them they had I could blow backwards through. Echlin part# 2-29000 seems interchangeable It is a bit squattier. Slightly larger diameter and slightly shorter fits the NPT nipple the same with a 5/8 hose end.

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Old 02-23-2011, 06:54 PM   #571
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25? I usually see 16 on decel.
That's because you have no more rings. What do you see at idle? Seriously though, timing will affect vacuum too.

In my 03 factory stock longblock I saw like 27-30 on decel. 10:1 factory compression though.
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Old 02-23-2011, 07:49 PM   #572
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are you saying vacuum in your *exhaust venturi thing* or intake manifold?
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Old 02-23-2011, 08:23 PM   #573
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Faeflora View Post
That's because you have no more rings. What do you see at idle? Seriously though, timing will affect vacuum too.

In my 03 factory stock longblock I saw like 27-30 on decel. 10:1 factory compression though.
oh **** I was thinking kpa. lol nvm
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Old 02-23-2011, 10:55 PM   #574
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are you saying vacuum in your *exhaust venturi thing* or intake manifold?

I am referring to vacuum in the crank case. Sorry I was not clear on that before.
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Old 02-24-2011, 01:41 AM   #575
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IT'S TOMORROW!

**** me. It's 1:30AM and I have to get up for work in 3 hours and my car is 100% together. This being my build thread, 100% together is not a good thing, and a motherfucking STAINLESS BRAIDED WATER LINE DECIDED TO RUPTURE INTERNALLY AND LEAK AFTER I PUT ALL THE ******* **** BACK ON MY CAR AND START IT UP.

This is after a good night of wrenching including

rtv valve cover baffles on
reroute my oil feed line
remove the stupid cold air box and heat shield
wrap the downpipe
change the oil
install the turbo and downpipe and midpipe
cut an hose and screw check valve down onto pipe (it took me ONE HOUR to screw it on. Those threads are small. Pipe was mounted up in car)


**** me, I'm just fucked. Now I have to pull downpipe, midpipe, turbo all over again. And order a damn replacement water line. FWIW when I got my kit 3 years ago, I got two consecutive oil feed lines that ruptured inside like this one. How often does that happen?



How many times can I do this in a year????
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Old 02-24-2011, 03:37 AM   #576
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Here's a thought , next time it works, stop messing with it...

I read this thread as a 'what not to do' guide

Seriously though good luck getting it back running again.
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Old 02-24-2011, 03:51 AM   #577
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I've personally never had a stainless steel hose of any type rupture inside the stainless steel. They've only leaked at the fitting, when some of the wire gets caught in the thread.
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Old 02-24-2011, 10:35 AM   #578
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I say you work all night while you're dead tired and can't concentrate then rush to put it back together as best you can and run it on the dyno without being totally confident it wont just explode.

and bring video and regular cameras.
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Old 02-24-2011, 11:13 AM   #579
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Good idea. I will just run it with no coolant.
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Old 02-24-2011, 11:13 AM   #580
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lol at measuring vacuum at IM and not the breather line to the venturi...
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