Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

Those QSVs are quite trick but they need to be ebay prices. Kinda expensive for a frikken flange, a flapper, and a wastegate.

Yup the plan is to run it and blow this turbo the **** up. May as well if I'd have to pay $550 to fix it regardless of the state. As long as it spools I will ***** on it.

These V series Garrett turbos sound interesting. Off duramax motors. Not sure how the vane actuator is controlled- MAP reference? That plus a QSV could equal super mega awesomeness with like 3000RPM spool and 800hp capability.

Actually, reading more about em, it looks like a GT3782V is smaller everywhere than a GT3582. Meh.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

42r time

chpmnsws6

iTrader: (12)

Here you are.

Buy plug wire pliers.

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

Thanks super much!!!! Ordering my wires now. Btw thanks for the freebies, they helped me get up and going asap.

Plug wire pliers. Hmmmmm are they useful even if I seldom change my wires?

chpmnsws6

iTrader: (12)

Is a second ratchet needed? No, but its nice!

They will keep the wires from pulling apart so easily. You won't need them with the new wires, but might on other cars (unless the Miata is the only thing you work on)

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

Fwiw I found a homemade qsv on a site called homemade turbo or something like that. Anyways they just drilled a twinscroll housing, welded a flapper on a rod, and used a wastegate can to move it. It worked and seems like a good mod. Fab skills required of course..

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

**** I can't edit my first post on this thread. Can a mod toggle editability for that? I wanted to put the consolidated parts list from my intro thread on it. If not Oh well. Here it is for fun:

boost/power stuff
GT3071 T3 .82 A/R 2.5" inlet AKA "Katilyn"
BEGI S5 manifold
BEGI "stage 3" IC
BEGI IC piping
Tial BOV
Tial WG w/ 17psi of spring
Hydra EMS
ID 1000 injectors
Hydramist
DEI lava turbine blanket
DEI lava downpipe wrap
enthuza 3" exhaust
magnacor 8.5mm plug wires
FM Fuel rail
Walboro 255HP

motor
FM wiseco 9:1 pistons
belfab or whatever h-beam rods
mazda OEM bearings
plain ol' 1.8 crank
miataroadsters billet oil pump gear
ATI damper
Reamed/gutted 99-00 mani w/ port matching
Direct port water injection bungs
FM ported head
FM valve springs
+1 intake, exhaust valves
gates belts
NGK iridium plugs
LS2 truck coils


engine bay misc stuff
Cruise control delete
A/C delete (engine bay only so far)
PS delete
emissions evap stuff delete
walboro 255HP
BEGI coolant reroute
begi air scooper
peterson catch can dumping to moroso slashcut via -12 hose
k&n filter

drivetrain
ACT xtreme PP and sprung 6 puck
FM 8lb flywheel
3.6 cryo'd, rem'd R&P
some mystery torsen
original 6 speed
mazdaspeed motor mounts
mazdaspeed diff mounts

Suspensionish stuff
6uLs
KYB AGX/FM springs
FM sways
FM frame rail braces
"well loved on" frame rail
SS brake lines
SS clutch line (affects feel lots!)
real roll bar


looks
chrome gas tank lid
SS door sills
factory nb body kit
factory light covers
racing beat wing
5% tint
momo shift ****

Gauges
PLX DM-100 oil pressure, oil/water temp, AFR gauge (COOL AS ******* HELL)
Cheapo autometer 30psi vac/boost gauge
dual EGT westach gauge
Hydramist multi-gauge

dgmorr

iTrader: (4)

Not a bad way to spend ten grand. (Jesse, 2001)

I was just curious.

leatherface24

iTrader: (10)

All of this and Im still faster in a straight line then you UP THE BOOST MOARRRRR

JayL

iTrader: (12)

Impressive list of parts without an impressive dyno sheet to go with it, any plans to fix that?

shlammed

iTrader: (8)

needs a REAL tune and it would make good power.

have you had this setup on a load-bearing dyno for even a base tune when you initially got the turbo setup running?

y8s

iTrader: (8)

car was not designed to be a dyno queen. it is only for bench racing.

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

Touche' fellas.

dyno tune with WI scheduled AGAIN for next thursday with Phil @ element. Last time I had so much stupid **** going on he didnt really have a chance to hammer out the timing map. Was also seeing det since I was recirculating the breather to the intake. Hopefully this will go awesomely.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

/\ This.

I am amazed that with all the money he's spent on this car modding, re-modding, fixing mistakes, and basically pouring money at every single problem over and over again, that he doesn't have like 100 dyno plots to show increases in power and progression.
Kinda makes all this work/money..........kinda pointless?

18psi

iTrader: (76)

where were you seeing det? what rpm/boost.

leatherface24

iTrader: (10)

If you are using a Hydra I can help you out a bit on the phone or through email.

pusha

iTrader: (5)

Do not trust him.

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

4000-6000RPM

No it wasn't "just normal engine noise" because it went away the instant I stopped recirculating the breather.

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

Sadness to report.

I have been testing out my WI system the past few days and this **** is just not working properly. The pump and high speed valve are triggered by a Hydra map and the pump comes on and shuts off erratically. I am not sure what the **** is wrong with it. The pump is switched power and duty via a relay and all the wiring going to it is dead simple and the right **** is plugged into the right ****. Something is fucked up somewhere and I am thinking it is either the DDS3v8 junction box or the relay or the pump itself. Arrrghh...

Hopefully I will get this **** resolved by Thursday. OR hopefully Element can figure it out with some spares they have lying around. They did design the kit after all. If not, I will just do a non-WI tune. But really, that would just suck. My whole plan with the WI was to run conservative timing without WI and go ***** out with timing and boost with WI. Urrrrrghhh

This **** aside, the car is driving great at 19psi. I leaned up the boost AFRs from 10ish:1 to 11.5:1. I can't say that I felt a difference. Oh, my magencor wires came in and I gapped the plugs up to .45. The ignition **** works just fine now.

Future plans- mostly aesthetic and reliability stuff:

remove water neck
source water feed from oil cooler outlet via some adapter
relocate plx water temp sensor to reroute pipe
shorten oil drain line which is currently leaking a small amount
velcro-loom up all the wires that run across the bay over the bellhousing
heat shrink the coil harness and literally tuck it as best as I can
run throttle cable below the rear water neck and hide it a bit
tap oil pan for oil temp sensor
run heater core uh outlet? over bellhousing and around coolside
ditch my factory overflow tank and either get neato ebay tank or shitty plastic summit tank
install me catch can when i get it from peterson
order and mount up new tires
replace eccentric bolts and align
replace WG and BOV and MAP sensor lines with either SS or aramid hose

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

Guess what! It's supposed to rain tomorrow! What's a dyno tune day for me without it raining on the way there and on the way home?