Finally my 1st (water cooled) turbo build
10-06-2015, 11:07 PM
#201
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Be very careful upgrading to MS3 1.4.0 pay close attention to the warnings in the zoftware.. They changed a bunch of stuff and suddenly things like my revlimiter and 100% tps flood clear mode settings got wiped.
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10-07-2015, 03:52 PM
#203
Wiring checks out. Ground is good, signal line is continuous as is the power. Neither ground out from either end. No crank signal.
Attachment 152031
In a desperate attempt I have changed a few setting from my last ms2 settings when it did run. Not sure if I need to be on wasted cop..I did not wire for sequential spark, but on ms2 the car ran on just wasted spark (not wasted cop) although I did have the ls coils . Not sure about the edge / going hi or low stuff either.
Attachment 152031
In a desperate attempt I have changed a few setting from my last ms2 settings when it did run. Not sure if I need to be on wasted cop..I did not wire for sequential spark, but on ms2 the car ran on just wasted spark (not wasted cop) although I did have the ls coils . Not sure about the edge / going hi or low stuff either.
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10-07-2015, 07:15 PM
#205
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Just updated to 4.1, now the three LEDs on the case are not lighting up. Im actually laughing now. it can only get better from here I think!
So I just tried creating a new project, just to see... I detects the controller, but will not open the tune. Just says "not connected" however, If I open with the old project, it does communicate. How or why is this?
So I just tried creating a new project, just to see... I detects the controller, but will not open the tune. Just says "not connected" however, If I open with the old project, it does communicate. How or why is this?
Last edited by ryansmoneypit; 10-07-2015 at 07:32 PM.
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10-07-2015, 07:18 PM
#206
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10-07-2015, 07:36 PM
#211
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[QUOTE=patsmx5;1273019]I would run the stock wheels and regular miata code that's known to work with it.[/QUOTE
I do not have. this all started with a 95 car.
I do not have. this all started with a 95 car.
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10-07-2015, 07:37 PM
#212
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Ok. Well I still believe the crank sensor is your problem. Although the Wasted COP bit could cause problems too.
If it was run on a car with just a CAM sensor then maybe the crank sensor was never set up correctly
If it was run on a car with just a CAM sensor then maybe the crank sensor was never set up correctly
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10-07-2015, 07:39 PM
#214
[QUOTE=ryansmoneypit;1273042]My advice is buy the hardware that for sure, without a doubt, works. That's the 99+ 4 tooth OEM wheel, OEM crank sensor, miata ecu settings to decode them. That will work. If it don't, you can then narrow down the problem to a very short list of possibilities (sensor gap, wiring between ecu and sensor, bad sensor- that's about it)
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10-07-2015, 07:41 PM
#215
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Don't do that yet. Waste of money. For now. The 36-2 wheel should work fine. If this was an ECU for a 95 then it won't be wired for a crank sensor.
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10-07-2015, 07:47 PM
#217
You say waste of money. I say will work, is cheap and OEM reliable, for sure works. If it don't , he can then narrow the problem down to one of about 3 possibilities. I've been given plenty of **** for doing things different for no reason. You don't need 34 teeth on your crank wheel, 4 will work just fine.
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10-07-2015, 07:49 PM
#218
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Per vvt megathread ....
The OEM 1990-1997 CAS has 4 wires. One wire is +12v, one wire is a sensor ground, and there is a signal wire for the crank position and a signal wire for the cam position. You will need to cut the factory plug off and extend the +12v and ground wires to each of the NB sensors. The cam signal wire will get routed to the camshaft sensor on the top of the valve cover, and the crank signal wire will get routed to the crankshaft sensor located near the harmonic damper. This will bring the appropriate cam and crankshaft patterns along the OEM harness into the ECU, and all of the other changes necessary will happen in the firmware/software of your ECU.
The OEM 1990-1997 CAS has 4 wires. One wire is +12v, one wire is a sensor ground, and there is a signal wire for the crank position and a signal wire for the cam position. You will need to cut the factory plug off and extend the +12v and ground wires to each of the NB sensors. The cam signal wire will get routed to the camshaft sensor on the top of the valve cover, and the crank signal wire will get routed to the crankshaft sensor located near the harmonic damper. This will bring the appropriate cam and crankshaft patterns along the OEM harness into the ECU, and all of the other changes necessary will happen in the firmware/software of your ECU.
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10-07-2015, 07:53 PM
#219
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Also the lack of LED lights, makes me think that I now have other problems.
Oil prime through the turbo line worked great! gauge reads good. good things! great Idea!
Oil prime through the turbo line worked great! gauge reads good. good things! great Idea!
Last edited by ryansmoneypit; 10-07-2015 at 08:09 PM.
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10-07-2015, 08:01 PM
#220
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Pat read my post better. I said yet, for now, wait. There are other things to check first.
Ryan. If your ECU wasn't wired for the crank sensor internally it won't matter what you hook up on the outside.
Ryan. If your ECU wasn't wired for the crank sensor internally it won't matter what you hook up on the outside.
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