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Well those vvt screws were some real turds to get out.
So check this problem I have encountered .
My new to me 6258 and my new ARTech manifold both use 8mm hardware. Know body runs these little pieces of pasta on a track car, do they? I wanted to utilize my TrackSpeed 10mm inconel stuff on this, but now I haz the problem.
Should I just drill, tap and install some keen certs, and then run the 10mm stuff? I really don't want to cut off the flange and make a new one.
Well those vvt screws were some real turds to get out.
So check this problem I have encountered .
My new to me 6258 and my new ARTech manifold both use 8mm hardware. Know body runs these little pieces of pasta on a track car, do they? I wanted to utilize my TrackSpeed 10mm inconel stuff on this, but now I haz the problem.
Should I just drill, tap and install some keen certs, and then run the 10mm stuff? I really don't want to cut off the flange and make a new one.
Sell the 10mm and buy the TSE 8mm efr specific kit.
Well those vvt screws were some real turds to get out.
So check this problem I have encountered .
My new to me 6258 and my new ARTech manifold both use 8mm hardware. Know body runs these little pieces of pasta on a track car, do they? I wanted to utilize my TrackSpeed 10mm inconel stuff on this, but now I haz the problem.
Should I just drill, tap and install some keen certs, and then run the 10mm stuff? I really don't want to cut off the flange and make a new one.
You can probably just drill/tap and screw the hardware you have right in. That should be easy and cheap if you have the drill and tap already. Can't be more than 20 bucks for a bit and tap if you don't, then you can use the bigger/stronger 10mm studs.
I think the prob is he already has 10mm hardware, but 8mm threads. 10mm would be stronger than 8mm, I'd go 10mm especially since he already has them. Would take like 30 minutes to drill/tap those to 10mm once he has the tap and drill.
Sorry but I gotta ask. How much is that sweet manifold cost? That looks baller. Pretty nice design.
My concern was that last year I thought the concensus was that 10mm was needed. Not arguing either way, I just don't want to have this thing fall off.
Edit: Pat, you are correct. I have 10mm studs already . I need to look it up, but I think that the major dia. of 8mm is larger than the minor 10. I hesitate to use a short thread, but maybe it isn't enough to worry about.
My concern was that last year I thought the concensus was that 10mm was needed. Not arguing either way, I just don't want to have this thing fall off.
Edit: Pat, you are correct. I have 10mm studs already . I need to look it up, but I think that the major dia. of 8mm is larger than the minor 10. I hesitate to use a short thread, but maybe it isn't enough to worry about.
Nope, there's enough to do it. Tap drill will be OD - thread pitch, so M10x1.5 = 8.5mm tap drill so you'd be ok.
I dunno about 10mm fitment with that turbo, but if it fits I'd run it.
We did 10s first because we were helping customers that had already upgraded to 10mm studs. When we designed the EFR kits, we designed around an 8mm stud. Both work fine.
We did 10s first because we were helping customers that had already upgraded to 10mm studs. When we designed the EFR kits, we designed around an 8mm stud. Both work fine.
Thank you for the clarity. You get more of my money.
And the stainless exhaust housing doesn't like being ground.
I know I'm a little late with the comment but jesus christ this. Don't ******* grind on the stainless EFR housing, its not worth it. Just get the correct 8mm studs from TSE and be done with it.
Slllloowww progress here, but forward nine the less.
started installing my Sad Fab hybrid kit into my existing urethane junk. I had to mod some stuff because I can't leave well enough alone.
Drill and chamfer a hole to guide the grease from my existing zerk, through the bushings and into the new bearing area.
But what do you do when the zerk is in the middle? Grasshopper, we must mode-e-fy them.
Now I can squirt my grease everywhere inside. I know, oil-lite bearings are oil impregnated, I get that. I don't give a damn, I like grease. I love Dominator grease. These front arms are currently defying gravity now. They move like they are on roller bearings now, and it all bolted up super tight with no play fore, aft, or radially.
Regardless of being oilite, they still need grease! Im not sure why people still fight that. Anyway, there's a small gap in between the bearings when installed for the grease to flow through, but your craziness cant hurt.
11-25-2016, 09:07 PM
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