EO2K

iTrader: (37)

I can tell you my module is power and ground into the megasquirt along with CAN leads, wideband powered from the car chassis and grounded directly to the block. I can't comment on wire colors because ours might be setup differently. I'd contact Rev directly for confirmation but it sounds like you are on the right track.

williams805

iTrader: (2)

I shot him a PM. It's just we are half a world apart, so incomplete answers or more questions take a day.

Are you running an external map? I just got a GM 3 bar and according to the instructions there are 2 MAP inputs. Pin 5 says "external MAP input - for use with external MAP sensors (jumper inside)". What does that mean exactly?
Pin 11 is labeled "EXT_MAP analog input -Spare analog (0-5V) input.
Which do I use?
Do I just run any old switched ignition and any ground to the MAP?

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

Narp, internal MAP for me! Where I'm going I don't plan on needing more than 21psi

Reverant

iTrader: (10)

Red to pin 1.
Black to pin 3. 2 will also work but 3 is ideal.

White to pin 8.
Black to pin 9.

Then:

1) Calibrate the AFR table for "Innovate LC-1/LC-2/MTX-L" (this applies whatever wideband you have)
2) Go to CANBus/Testmodes -> CAN VSS,Gear,EGO
3) Enabe "Fetch EGO Data Via Can"
4) Remote CAN ID: 9, Table: 0, Offset: 0
5) Go to Fuel Settings -> AFR/EGO Control
6) Set EGO1 Port to "CAN EGO"
7) Go to Basic/Load Settings -> General Settings, set Lamda Lag Factor to 100.

Done

codrus

FWIW, when I tried running the LC-2 off the MS3 power, it caused all kinds of noise issues on the various sensors. Getting the CAN/serial converter box from Rev let me completely separate the MS3 and the LC2 in the analog world, leaving only a digital connection between them, and everything started working much better.

I pulled a +12 power line in through the firewall (tapped off the INJ wire in the main fusebox, I think) and used it to power the LC-2, the CAN bus converter, and the LC-2 analog gauge (when connected).

The GM 3 bar MAP sensor needs power ground, signal group, and +5. The grounds were on the db37 for my MSLabs MS3, but +5 wasn't, so I opened it up, found a +5 source, and jumpered it onto an unused pin on the db37.

I built a harness for plugging in everything in the glovebox using molex connectors. Since I've been spending a lot of time swapping stuff in and out lately, it's made it a lot more convenient.

--Ian

williams805

iTrader: (2)

Thank you gentlemen. Props.

williams805

iTrader: (2)

Launch and flat shift, check. Very fun to play with. Started at 3800 and went down to 3500 for launch. Still getting plenty of wheel hop and spinning. Will play some more tomorrow.

williams805

iTrader: (2)

Big day! Finally got my charger back from PSE. They get swamped in the summer. Just glad to have it back. Ed is the man. I have no doubt it is better than when it left Magnuson.

Looking forward to doing a little boost tuning tomorrow. If all goes well, new pulley next week for moarboost.

williams805

iTrader: (2)

Rebuilt blower is doing great. It seems quieter than before which is nice. Big props to PSE. Not the cheapest but you get what you pay for.

I posted this in the catch can thread but figured I'd share here for those following this thread...

Update on my dual catch cans...
I've run the car for approximately 6000 miles (all street) with this setup. One can between the valve cover and intake and the other between the valve cover and pre throttle intake tubing. All of these miles were unboosted. Never got more than oil residue in the can between the valve cover and pre throttle intake.

Now I've been boosted for 200 miles and have accumulated some liquid in the pre throttle side can. This confirmed my suspicions that when boosted, you will get oil out of that side of things.

I had considered just rigging both cans up for two stage separation on pcv side. Now I will certainly keep them separate to keep oil out of the intercooler.

Other notes: I'm running a check valve in tandem with the pcv to be certain no boost is leaking through the (GTX) pcv. I'm pretty certain the GXT valve was still letting boost by.

williams805

iTrader: (2)

Planning on switching oil this go around. Anybody run the Amsoil 5w30 3000 diesel stuff? I know it's way more expensive but I'm looking to run 5w30. I have high oil pressure now that I have no squirters and shimmed pump with the Rotella T6. I want to experiment a little. Any suggestions? Want to see if different oil can cut down on consumption any further.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Stop putting diesel oil in high reving motors. VR1.

williams805

iTrader: (2)

Sweet. I'm game.

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

Agreed.

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

Who is PSE? I just had my whipple rebuilt at whipple too....

How much boost you running now?

williams805

iTrader: (2)

PSE has the ability to time the rotors and gears. Others do not. PSE Superchargers - Your source for remanufactured original equipment superchargers

Most I've seen is 11psi. I think there is a boost leak through the recalculating valve but not sure yet. Was expecting 13 or 14 with 62.5/130mm combo.

williams805

iTrader: (2)

Also getting tons of noise from the knock sensor. Feels really flat above 8psi. Found its pulling 10 degrees of timing. I have lowered spark table significantly in my higher kpa cells so I can log what just noise looks like. I just need to get a few free minutes now to actually log it when its not rush hour.

I thought my timing looked on par if not conservative but it still pulling a bunch. I just need to learn where the actual knock occurs. So basically need to tune the sensor first. not too concerned about where my missing boost is until I can get this figured out.

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

I would highly highly (can't emphasis this enough) suggest reading the plugs to see if you have knock. I've found on my car what is and isn't knock. Also found that making more power = knock sensor goes nuts despite the engine NOT knocking.

Post your timing map, compression ratio, and fuel type.

Also one way I was able to spot real knock vs not knock with the knock sensor on my setup was to drive the car hard when it was warming up, but not quite fully warmed up and certainly not heatsoaked. Doing this showed my sensor reporting about 35% max. Doing the same thing after driving it for 30 minutes knock was in the 60% range. AIt was actually knocking when fully up to temp.

williams805

iTrader: (2)

I was getting some spark blow out. I pulled the plugs and didn't see anything. I'm still on stock shitty 99 coils. Putting the iridiums in (with .030" gap) helped a bunch but clearly I'm at the limit here.

I'm running 8.6:1 supertechs. I have pulled 6 degrees in the area were MS3 was pulling 10. I know it's not pinging at this point. If I see the same noise I saw before I'll know its just noise. I will definitely check plugs. I have a cheap bore scope I got for a Christmas present last year. Looks like a good opportunity to use it.

I appreciate your advise. Thanks for the heads up. I'll get my tune and logs up soon but I want to do a little more investigating first.

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

No problem, glad to help!

Misfire on my car = knock spike on knock sensor. Food for thought. I bet it's the same for you.

I would gap down if your going to keep using those coils. When I ran 99 coils and boost, I ran .020" gap and ran 17 PSI on them reliably.

To check the plugs, I use a 10x magnification jewelers loupe and good lighting. Look for black specs or little metals ***** of aluminum stuck to the porcelain on the spark plug.

williams805

iTrader: (2)

Alright, you got me curios...

This is without the spark blowout