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Been reading on this forum and recently started posting. Here's my build thread.
Originally purchased the Miata as a 94' SCCA Spec Miata. I'll list everything I've done, performance or maintenance related.
Original goal was to buy something cheap to have a blast in on the track with my coworkers who have numerous track day cars
Current Build Spec:
Motor:
Trackspeed EFR 6258 Kit with DP and Manifold
BP4W Head w/ Flat Top Intake
Skunk 2 Throttle Body
Supertech +1 I/E Valves (inconel)
VS-855 Springs
Supertech SUB lifters
Supertech 84mm 9.5:1 Pistons with Wiseco Rings
Manley Rods
ACL Bearings, STD
ARP head and main cap Studs
ID 1050X injectors w/ DW300 pump
DW fuel pressure regulator
FFS Fuel Rail
Boundary Engineering Billet Oil Pump
ATI Harmonic Balancer
350HP Precision intercooler
Gates Race Timing Belt and Pulleys
New water pump
M-Tuned Coolant Reroute
Trackspeed Race radiator, w/ Spal 13" fan
Trackspeed Setrab 16 row oil cooler kit
LS2 coil kit, and harness
Artech 3" full exhaust
E85 Sensor/Kit
949 Competition Motor Mounts
Car:
6 speed transmission (currently exploring the KMiata Transmission upgrade kits for when it give way)
949 Racing Twin Clutch/Flywheel
3.9 Torsen Rear end
1 Piece NB axles
New hubs and bearings all around
6UL wheels, moving to Storm S1 (stoptech clearance required)
Xida 800/500 Race kit w/ Coaxial Mounts and helper springs
V8R Billet upper arms with Pro Lowers all around
V8R STR42 Stoptech Kit front and STR21 rear w/ 2 piece rotors all around
V8R Wilwood 1" MC kit with remote bias adjustment
Clutch line replacement
Singular Hood Vent Kit, probably will be 5 vent upgraded
Current Blackbird Fabworx spoiler, will be purchasing the Singular GTC-200 kit soon
DIY splitter with Fully Torqued Racing splitter braces
All new fuel system rubber for e85
Here's the car when I bought it
First Mods: MS2PNP, Racing beat exhaust, header, custom intake and e85
Dyno day after first mods:
Plenty of track days including Big Willow and Laguna
Need more power, all new everything.
Car has been fully broken in as N/A and will be returning to Shawn Church to be tuned once the turbo installation and other bits are finalized here in the next week or so. I'll post more recent pictures when I can.
Car looks fantastic. I love those brakes. Spoke with Shandelle about them and he really thinks they are a step above. I have yet to experience mine but those do look great. Looking forward to seeing more pictures.
Forgot to mention that after building the motor the first time, strapped the old racing beat exhaust and header on and headed to the dyno. Took it to Shawn, and after 3 pulls we bent an exhaust valve on cylinder 4. Spit a shim, knocked the valve retainers off, etc. Took the head back the machinist for rework.
Not sure what caused it but we had very loud lifter tick once he got the car running. After sending the head back for more repair, I think I found the problem, poor head work assembly. After double checking the machine shop's lifter clearance on the "fixed" head, one exhaust valve was set at .023. The only way I can think that this happened was that he had the .011 and .012 feeler gauges stuck together and kept grinind on the valve till it fit. After rechecking all his clearances and ordering 13 new shims and a shallower SUB (15.5 in lieu of 16) for a valve that was way too tight, I got it to a spec I was happy with. We'll see how it does on the dyno here soon.
Just got back from the dyno. First time having a turbo miata tuned.
More tuning to do i think, need more boost up top to level off the torque curve, but not bad for 16psi i think.
Light blue line (Yellow numbers) are on 91 octane pump gas.
Red line is 14psi E85
Blue line (Green numbers) is 16psi E85
Going to leave it here for a while and get used to the current power, but its good to know there is more on the table once I swap out my transmission/diff after the stock 6 speed eats it.
After we spoke a while back and you mentioned my goals weren't achievable with the stock 94 head, I sourced a BP4W head and had the stiffer springs, oversized valves, and SUBs removed from my 94 head and installed in the BP4W. No porting or anything fancy though.
Are these good or bad numbers considering what I have done to the engine?
Also, Andrew, would it make sense to modify the boost solenoid duty cycle to keep the torque flat up top? Shawn mentioned not doing it as drive ability with that much torque at high RPM would be compromised...
I believe the 2wd is what has the Church tax on it, so 10% off those numbers is 305whp/281wtq, which is solid for a 6258 on E85 and 16psi. The torque curve is what I would expect for the '99, full boost by 3500 and peak torque in the 4800rpm range. All looks good.
The pump gas torque curve indicates that you're getting boost creep at high RPM on the low-boost map, though. It's definitely not making 10psi at the top based on that torque curve. Verify the alignment is correct and then back the preload off ~1 turn or so.
I believe the 2wd is what has the Church tax on it, so 10% off those numbers is 305whp/281wtq, which is solid for a 6258 on E85 and 16psi. The torque curve is what I would expect for the '99, full boost by 3500 and peak torque in the 4800rpm range. All looks good.
The pump gas torque curve indicates that you're getting boost creep at high RPM on the low-boost map, though. It's definitely not making 10psi at the top based on that torque curve. Verify the alignment is correct and then back the preload off ~1 turn or so.
You talking about the steady slight increase in torque until the steep fall off? Isn't it beneficial to have more torque up high? I was thinking of adjusting my duty cycle on the E85 maps to help maintain more boost up high to keep the torque curve flatter longer?
Weight pics, i realized I didn't have the spherical spacers installed so add another .25 lbs to the new arm pic:
Ended up going to AED last night to get the car re-tuned after figuring out that it wasn't done quite right. Toby was awesome. Below are the results:
To start off the tuning we strapped the car on and ran it exactly how it came off of Church's dyno. From there i calculated an almost exact 10% delta between dynos. The lower power numbers are 91 pump gas, the higher, E85.
First graph is at 18.8psi on EBC.
Secondo graph is 15.8psi on wastegate only. Still having creep issues on both tunes, but on the wastegate only tune, it makes for a really nice flat torque curve. Would probably be a bit easier to drive.
Could have taken this higher on EBC, but 344 ftlbs is a bit much on the current drivetrain. Good news is I received notification that my Kmiata BMW swap kit shipped.
Well, this weekend was good. Got the new trans/clutch/flywheel all installed along with the shifter and clutch kit.
Had a major PITA time trying to get the trans' input shaft aligned with the pilot bearing. Putting tape on the ACT alignment tool was too tight, and then since its plastic and the clutch's teeth are sharp, it was hard going in and out no matter the alignment. Needless to say trans was up and down numerous times while trying to realign the clutch/pilot bearing.
Finally got it about 5/16" away from the adapter plate and gave it a few smacks with the mini sledge and some wood till it was flush with the mount. We couldn't get enough forward push on the trans to get it to seat. Im worried about maybe knocking out/misaligning the pilot bearing, but I guess I'll find out when I try and drive it. Anyone else have this experience?
here's a pic before the trans went on for the 3rd time.
Well, this weekend was good. Got the new trans/clutch/flywheel all installed along with the shifter and clutch kit.
Had a major PITA time trying to get the trans' input shaft aligned with the pilot bearing. Putting tape on the ACT alignment tool was too tight, and then since its plastic and the clutch's teeth are sharp, it was hard going in and out no matter the alignment. Needless to say trans was up and down numerous times while trying to realign the clutch/pilot bearing.
Finally got it about 5/16" away from the adapter plate and gave it a few smacks with the mini sledge and some wood till it was flush with the mount. We couldn't get enough forward push on the trans to get it to seat. Im worried about maybe knocking out/misaligning the pilot bearing, but I guess I'll find out when I try and drive it. Anyone else have this experience?
The BMW alignment tools have too much play in them, we've dealt with the same thing. A little scotch tape around the tip is the most helpful. The splines are so big, so we put the trans in gear so you can rotate the input shaft from the driveshaft flange while trying to line it up. Sometimes it pops right in without a struggle, and sometimes it's more of a fight.
If I find out any other tricks from the BMW crowd I'll let everyone know.
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Home of the original KMiata Swap
11-29-2017, 11:50 PM
ooja3k's EFR6258 to LFX Track Build Swap
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