H3AVY to H3AVYER to...H3AV1EST P1G
12-05-2013, 11:08 AM
#883
I'd rather spend that money on more important things, and just did:
Ordered:
-vvt solenoid o-rings
-valve cover gasket
-cam seals
From Arlington/Rosenthal Mazda. Figured I'll just do it once and do it right. Not taking any chances with the ebay stuff (even though its probably fine).
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12-05-2013, 12:13 PM
#884
Elite Member
iTrader: (13)
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Taos, New mexico
Posts: 6,603
Total Cats: 564
I'd rather spend that money on more important things, and just did:
Ordered:
-vvt solenoid o-rings
-valve cover gasket
-cam seals
From Arlington/Rosenthal Mazda. Figured I'll just do it once and do it right. Not taking any chances with the ebay stuff (even though its probably fine).
Ordered:
-vvt solenoid o-rings
-valve cover gasket
-cam seals
From Arlington/Rosenthal Mazda. Figured I'll just do it once and do it right. Not taking any chances with the ebay stuff (even though its probably fine).
On my bp, not so much. Cam seals leaked, and the VC gasket was puking into the cylinders after a few hundred miles. Yuck. Ended up going oem front/rear main, cam seals, and VC gasket - and will be doing the same on the new rebuild.
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12-05-2013, 12:55 PM
#885
LOLWUT? I used a churbo once, and before/after used 3 genuine garretts
Not on my own cars, but others' and really liked it.
Thanks man
Sure, no problem.
And that 300 figure is on pump. I don't think anyone has ever found out the stock pistons limit on e85. The 56 trim 2871 .86 should be good for high 300's
*edit: to be clear, I don't intend to reach high 300's, but here's the compressor chart anyways:
Its quite a bit more potent than a Disco Potato 2860
Not on my own cars, but others' and really liked it.
Thanks man
Sure, no problem.
And that 300 figure is on pump. I don't think anyone has ever found out the stock pistons limit on e85. The 56 trim 2871 .86 should be good for high 300's
*edit: to be clear, I don't intend to reach high 300's, but here's the compressor chart anyways:
Its quite a bit more potent than a Disco Potato 2860
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12-05-2013, 01:16 PM
#886
Elite Member
iTrader: (37)
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Very NorCal
Posts: 10,441
Total Cats: 1,899
When I ordered my timing belt kit from Rosenthal, the cam seals were not in OEM Mazda packing as you would expect, but they felt like quality and installed without issue. It's been 2-3 years now and they are pretty much the only thing NOT weeping oil on my engine. I really wish I had done the crank while I had it apart. 
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12-09-2013, 11:45 PM
#889
This showed up today. Its no EFR but I think it will get the job done 
Also today I finally got time to re-measure the lash and then pulled the cams. Its way out, definitely need to take most of them down.
Here's the FSM specs:
Intake: .008-.009
Exhaust: .011-.012
vs my specs
Intake: <.004, .006, <.004, .008, .006, .007, <.004, <.004
Exhaust: .008, .008, .008, .008, .007, .008, .006, .005
I say < because my tool only goes down to .004 and even that doesn't go in. So its probably nothing or even depressing the valve at full closed or something.
LOL
So yeah.
Also today I finally got time to re-measure the lash and then pulled the cams. Its way out, definitely need to take most of them down.
Here's the FSM specs:
Intake: .008-.009
Exhaust: .011-.012
vs my specs
Intake: <.004, .006, <.004, .008, .006, .007, <.004, <.004
Exhaust: .008, .008, .008, .008, .007, .008, .006, .005
I say < because my tool only goes down to .004 and even that doesn't go in. So its probably nothing or even depressing the valve at full closed or something.
LOL
So yeah.
Last edited by 18psi; 12-09-2013 at 11:57 PM.
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12-12-2013, 10:32 AM
#895
Alright so yesterday I fixed 1 shim lol
The ones that are <.004 take forever, because they're out so much that I have to 1st get them down enough to measure (my feeler only goes to .004 FTL) then do it some more. Basically I yank it out from the bucket, and sand down the underside of it on a stationary sander thing. Started with .127" (the shim measured with a caliper) and ended up with .105" to get a .009 lash, quite a bit.
The rest, or all but the 4 of them that are <.004 should go quicker and easier.
So far so good
The ones that are <.004 take forever, because they're out so much that I have to 1st get them down enough to measure (my feeler only goes to .004 FTL) then do it some more. Basically I yank it out from the bucket, and sand down the underside of it on a stationary sander thing. Started with .127" (the shim measured with a caliper) and ended up with .105" to get a .009 lash, quite a bit.
The rest, or all but the 4 of them that are <.004 should go quicker and easier.
So far so good
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12-12-2013, 11:33 AM
#899
ALLOFTHEM 
Check post #889 for specs. No none of them can be swapped because they're all tight, not loose. This is a good thing.
Basically, and to repeat what my dad said to me yesterday- " Wow, you lapped/seated the heck outa those suckers "
I took them all down a lot, because I wanted a baller seal and finish on all of them. Mirror shine or go home
So now I gotta trim these shims to get it back in spec. All but the <.004 ones should be pretty quick though, they're only about .003 closer than OEM specs.
Check post #889 for specs. No none of them can be swapped because they're all tight, not loose. This is a good thing.
Basically, and to repeat what my dad said to me yesterday- " Wow, you lapped/seated the heck outa those suckers "
I took them all down a lot, because I wanted a baller seal and finish on all of them. Mirror shine or go home
So now I gotta trim these shims to get it back in spec. All but the <.004 ones should be pretty quick though, they're only about .003 closer than OEM specs.
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